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Hot Rods Vapor lock/percolation. Its too damn hot

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by dogwalkin, Jun 26, 2024.

  1. Driver50x
    Joined: May 5, 2014
    Posts: 509

    Driver50x
    Member

    Maybe a dumb question, but how do you plumb a return line? Most old car gas tanks don’t have an extra fitting for a return line.
     
    Lone Star Mopar and y'sguy like this.
  2. I added mine to the sending unit. Drilled a hole and added a fitting. Return lines are usually smaller than the feed line.
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2024
    Lone Star Mopar and Driver50x like this.
  3. How important is it to have the 3rd port [return] line pointing up?

    I'm second guessing my setup, ran the return on the side of the t fitting. I did it this way for a cleaner install. 20240701_083518.jpg
     
  4. GnM
    Joined: Sep 24, 2017
    Posts: 6

    GnM

    Great advice and suggestions here! I have similar a thing going on. My 31 model a has side louvers in the hood with a Spal 16" pusher fan and a smaller 12" pusher in the front of the condenser with a gm 350 motor. No overheating has happened, but can drive down the road for a bit, then the car stutters like it's outa gas, which I make sure I always have plenty of. Then the car dies, and I coast off the road, saying not so good things. That's when i changed the the 2-month-old fuel pump and lines. The carb has had all the gas boiled out of it, won't prime back up, always have had to pour gas down the carb then it starts. I put a heat shield and a phoanic plate on it too but still didn't help New 500cfm Edelbrock carb, cleaned the tank, and blew stainless fuel line out, changed the fuels line hoses, put 2 new fuel filters on it, and still, it sputters, and carb gets no gas. No vapor lock either. Do I need to put an additive in the gas or run a return line and or put an electric fuel pump on it? Afraid to drive it for fear of it quitting on me. And sorry for the lengthy post but I ain't much of a mechanic, I do more body work and painting.
     
  5. Mine says hecho-en-mehico. Is that Chinese..?
     
  6. Got one being delivered today.
     
  7. clem
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 4,439

    clem
    Member

    do these work ?
    all the ones that I have seen are advertised as the third outlet is for a breather, which doesn’t make sense to me either.
    Or is the term breather just another way of saying ‘over flow’ ?
    If some of the fuel bi passes, do you lose pressure at pump/carb ?
     
  8. Haven’t ran the filter.
    Bought a fuel pump with a built in return. Works great
     
    clem likes this.
  9. Bumpstick
    Joined: Sep 10, 2002
    Posts: 1,409

    Bumpstick
    Member

    I have an electric fuel pump mounted on the driver's side frame rail. I put 3 from the pump to the firewall. Seems to be enough
     
    GlassThamesDoug likes this.
  10. Arrived today.... hope it helps..

    20240815_185320.jpg
     
    69fury likes this.
  11. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,844

    George
    Member

    Can't hurt....
     
  12. ekimneirbo
    Joined: Apr 29, 2017
    Posts: 4,858

    ekimneirbo

    I'd try the spacer first just to see if it relieves the problem. If you go with an electric pump, the best set-up is an intank pump and the return line....but that adds to the degree of difficulty. I would buy your pump from a reputable source like Summit as there are conterfeits out there that look like good pumps, and also fuel regulators that are copies. One other thing to consider is that the fuel pump will place an additional load on your electrical system, so you might consider whether your alternator is up to the job.
     
    GlassThamesDoug likes this.
  13. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 2,600

    joel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I agree with phenolic spacer ( mine is 1/2 in. open style on a Edelbrock C4B ) . If you were using a Holley carb. I would suspect the power valve leaking or wrong PV. Also, as mentioned , float level may be too high. I found that todays fuel likes more initial timing, however, I run pump premium because I have over 10.1 CR. My sbc runs 180 deg. on a 180 thermostat (+/- 2 deg.). Maybe adjust idle screws to get around 13.8 on afr after adding spacer.
     
  14. winr
    Joined: Jan 10, 2008
    Posts: 296

    winr
    Member
    from Texas

    "Car doesnt over heat and runs 190 most all the time. But I have an afr gauge on it and when I sit in traffic at idle its starts to run more rich the longer I sit there." ..... Does then the temp rise at idle in traffic when the afr shows richer ??


    Ricky.
     
    GlassThamesDoug likes this.
  15. dogwalkin
    Joined: Jan 17, 2013
    Posts: 157

    dogwalkin
    Member
    from tn

    No the temp doesnt rise in traffic. But the carburetor is boiling the fuel due to trapped heat under the hood.
    I hope to have solved the problem though. Ive been super busy and havent had a chance to deal with it. But Im finishing up installing a electric pump. I also had the fuel line closer to the exhaust at the back of the car than I thought it was. If it still acts up I have made it easy now that I can add a return line if needed.
    Sorry I havent had a chance to update but I should have it back on the road today or tomorrow.
     
  16. CSPIDY
    Joined: Nov 15, 2020
    Posts: 751

    CSPIDY
    Member

    Louvers let the heat out and look kool
     

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