Guess I'm just old... never used any of this stuff. And only one aircraft I ever worked on used clips on the turnbuckles, rest were all safety wire.
I was told to safety wire the knockoffs on my pin drive wheels. I didn't and just got out the lead hammer every time I stopped for gas. Never lost a wheel. Doesn't the theory that the wing nuts get tighter as the car goes forward apply? Sold the wheels.
Curious… what component is this? I think I’m seeing lead seals to prevent tampering… still remember when mail bags and taxi meters were lead-sealed. Cheers, Harv
We had one bomb rack at work, this one was loaded to the gills with safety wire. The inspectors went over each one and had to be told not to look at anything too close, a 6X loupe was fine. Big things were nicked wire and tails not finished properly.
Somewhat OT, but a good demonstration of the importance of doing stuff right on any fastener locking devices. Niece's husband takes her '18 Toyota Sienna minivan to a guy he knows this past week to get an oil change and have him check the front hubs as he thinks he's hearing a bearing noise on the RF. Happens to mention that lately the engine seems to speed up for a couple seconds every once in a while as they're driving along. At that point, the shop owner says Whoa. No need to spend a cent on this thing until that's resolved. Car has over 100K miles so its well out of warranty. This guy doesn't do transmission work, but he says he's heard there's a recall for this very symptom on certain Toyotas that covers 2 or 3 years. Says it involves a lock tab washer on a nut in the trans that isn't bent up far enough to keep the nut locked in place. The nut backs off over time and once its loose enough to cause problems, the solution is to replace the trans. Says this is just what he's heard and doesn't know any details of whether its covered past the warranty or not, but he wouldn't recommend even spending the price of an oil change on the car until they know for sure as a trans replacement would be $$thousands so he might just want to dump the car while its just happening now and then rather than all the time. So he goes home and calls some number for Toyota. Gives them the VIN and symptoms and sure enough its covered regardless of mileage. To Toyota's credit, they're extending the trans warranty for 10 yrs from date of manufacture regardless of mileage. Although its not a life threatening situation, someone not paying attention to a 2 cent part and a 5 second operation will ultimately cost Toyota $millions.
There hasn't been much comment on the engine manufacturer's name tags, but those enameled examples are works of art!
I had to safety wire in the Air Force and I was OK at it-looked like crap but was functional. It was always something that I tried to improve upon though. Thanks for the page on the lacing of wires, I am going to try that on my car when everything gets tightened down and ready to be buttoned up.
Is there a “correct” way to finish split pins? I trim the split pin legs to a suitable length with dry yes, then bend both split pin legs back and tap them down to flush with a hammer. Dad always cut one leg off, then bent the remaining leg around. Makes me smile every time I pull something apart with one leg off, knowing he assembled it last. cheers, Harv
@Harv, with cotter (split pins) from what I’v seen in my time function is the right way I have seen nails used and they did the job that being said If the pin is slid in so the ends can be curled back into the nut instead of back over the end of the bolt, that would be better in my mind. I spent my youth working for/with my dad and understand seeing his work since he’s gone
I’ve never seen the ends tucked back into the castellations before… that is very neat. I’ll be doing mine like that from now on. cheers, Harv
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