I got a stripped down 2004 Silverado (4.3/5speed/standard cab/ shortbed) to replace the '84-1/2 ton with plow (305/4spd/SC/SB) that replaced my '71-1/2 ton (350/4spd/SC/SB) with plow because my wife complained that too much road was showing through the cab floor when she used it. Chevy dealers told me a plow would void warranty because plow packages weren't available on 1/2 ton stick shift trucks. I got it anyway. After driving it a few days, I happened to pop the clutch to start it since I was on a hill. It would not start. I asked on a Chevy forum what the deal was: The theft deterrent is provided in order to prevent the vehicle operation if the correct key is not used in order to start the vehicle. The ignition key turns the lock cylinder. The cylinder rotation produces an analog voltage code in the Passlock sensor. This voltage code is received by the BCM. The BCM compares the voltage code to the previously learned voltage code. If the codes match, a class 2 message is sent from the BCM to the powertrain control module (PCM)/vehicle control module (VCM). The message enables the fuel injectors. The design of the Passlock system is to prevent vehicle theft by disabling the engine unless the ignition lock cylinder rotates properly by engaging the correct ignition key. Evidently they use a computer chip in the key. My stripped "WT" model truck doesn't use the key with the chip. I asked why then can't I pop-start it?. Here's the answer: In the case of GM vehicles the ones with the chip in the key the correct key must be used but the vehicles that have no chip in key the chip is in the tumbler assembly. Changing the tumbler,column,PCM,BCM, or ABS modules will prevent the vehicle from starting until vehicle has been relearned. If you don't have the correct key, you can't turn the lock cylinder and therefore you wouldn't generate the necessary voltage signal to the BCM. So I asked: If I don't have the "correct key", I can't turn it anyway so why do I need an electronic protection system?. Any old car you don't have the "correct" key for can't be started without a correct key anyway- correct? Here's the response: GM-Tech Super Senior Member Reged: 06/27/03 Posts: 4157 Loc: South Florida ... Yeah, there are some DIYers out there that like to have simplicity and be able to work on their own vehicles, but if you haven't noticed, you're in the minority. Vehicles today have exceedingly complex electonics in them because people want mirrors and seats that remember their settings individually for the husband/wife, heated seats, automatic air system, doors that unlock remotely at the press of a button, ad infinitum. Gone are the days of points and condensers, carburetors, roll up windows and vacuum operated wiper motors. Get over it. Essentially the answer was: SCREW YOU, GM's MAKING TONS OF MONEY CONVINCING PEOPLE THEY NEED ALL THIS B.S. . Finally I stated: ...why make things complicated and undefeatable for the owner/self-repair guy unless there are other purposes. There is little a determined thief will be stopped by piling Rube Goldberg schemes on ignition, radio, doorlocks, etc..., all it serves is to ensure dealer/manufacturer input ($) for perpetuity. So all this "investment" in "what the people want" and when the tailgate straps on all late model GM trucks started breaking and killed a number of people here's GM's solution: Say it aint so... Powerband
Powerband - Please edit your post so that it is not so wide by separating your pics. Took me forever to read your post.
I guess I'll give up on the fiberglass coupe idea, and go to some junk yards and get me a 22 Buick roadster and set it up to drive all year up here in Wisconsin.
You may want a top up there... But if you do find a Buick Roadster there are a few guys on the Nailhead list looking.....
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