Wake up ! It's time, Sept 2009 Banger meet

vtwin,

Any more pics of this lineup?

 

That knurled knob on the choke will adjust the carburetor mixture.

 

I don't have any thing running and it's too hard to walk. I went to that thread and it looks like the cars are getting sharper looking every year. Neat pics!

 

I want to second that... How are they running carbs on both sides of a model A block?

 

IT LIVES! Last guy that had it said his buddy owned it the last 35 years and it NEVER ran. Im assuming it didnt run before that, either. SO STOKED! Ive been tinkering with it all morning, swapped the coil and it fired right up! I had to do a quick 12V jump start. Drove it up and down the street and it definately needs a little attention, but it runs! The only main issue now, it blew a hole through the bottom rad tube, between the rad and the block. No biggie, im running to Kragen to score a suitable hose. IM STOKED! Thanks for the help fellas!

 

Sorry Mac that's the only one I got, I was waiting in line to go up the hill and was more focused on not screwing up than getting good shots. At one point I slipped the truck in gear and backed into another competitor (I put it in Toyota 1st which happens to be Model A reverse.) No major damage, but it scared the daylights out of me. As this was my first competitive automotive event, I was more than a little nervous. Hopefully I'll be able to get some better pics this year. I bought a new camera and I'm going over on Thursday and staying till Sunday.

 

Woopsie! Thanks for the catch Bill.

 

The motor is in a 30-31 PU owned by Gary in MN ( H.A.M.B.name) He says "Two for show and two for go!" It is set up very cleverly, complete with fuel lines and linkage. Gary maybe you want to explain it more or maybe not!

 

I was mocking up the intake up and it was cleaner spining the carbs but I didnt even think of slosh of the gas is a real good thing I didn't order all the ss j bends yet
thanks for your input Bill

 

thanks for the input Bill I was not thinking of carb design just clean fab work. getting 2 carbs to run right is a pain in the ass I dont need the carb design thing too
later Bill

 

I looked in the phone book for (there is a guy here in socal) I had know luck... If any one has a # and a real name that would be cool
thanks Bill

 

where should my air/fuel screw be set in the cab? Im having a hard time keeping it running.

 

Just dial it out until it runs better. It seems to me that you don't want to open it too much. It is usually adjusted driving down the road in top cog. Old carbs can be a bitch to sort out sometimes. That question could be answered better on the Ford Barn "A" forum

http://www.fordbarn.com/aforum/aforum.htm

 

I've always been told to screw it in (to the right) until it starts running crappy and then back out 1/4 turn. Not saying it's right, but that's what my geezer buddies tell me. They agree with Bill, it is best adjusted at speed. Seems to work good for me.

Check your tank for debris and use some type of fuel filter as these old tanks will let loose with some crud every now and then and it's nearly impossible to get them lined with tank sealer, due to the baffels. You don't want to use a filter that restricts your flow very much on a gravity fed system.

 

Bill,

Were you looking in the white pages? It looks like you spelled SoCal wrong. I will get his info and post it.

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12v or 6v on that SoCal conversion?

 

Ya, I was thinking of putting a see through filter on it, but realized its basically a hard line from the tank to the carb. Where do you guys put your filters at?

I took it around the block and it quit halfway there. It seemed to run decent, then died. Then after messig with it, it would only idle. As soon as I hit the gas, it wanted to die. After idling for 4-5 minutes, it started to run good again. Is there some kind of a accelerator pump in these carbs that can be clogged? I tried to swith to a rebuilt carb that I have, but the line wouldnt seat properly.

 

Are you running an A carb?

There is no accelerator pump in an A carb. B's had a "power circut." The needle and seat and the jets in both can be clogged very easily. You'll have to clean out the carb. I'd suggest getting an in-tank filter. Snyders carrys a great little filter that goes in the top of your fuel valve (inside the tank). It's bigger than the ones I've bought from other dealers.
P/N A-9193-T heres a link:
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/2140

You can also get microscreen filters to put in your sediment bulb, but I've had better luck with the in-tank style. Luke

 

Stock model"A"'s came with a fuel filter or sediment bowl on the fire wall, 28 and 29 had a cast iron filter, 30 and some 31's had a glass bowl. Late 31's had a glass bowl on the carburetor and the fuel shut off was moved to an indented place on the engine side of the firewall and I "think" the filter attached to the carburetor. These filters or sediment bowls on the firewall were held in place by a 3/4 16 nut on the inside of the firewall and they fit on a bump to locate properly. They contained a screen to stop the solids, the larger pieces falling to the bottom but the ultra fine sediments could/can pass through and eventually will plug up a jet or two. The filters should be drained as often as required depending on the amount of junk they collect from the tank

Now, as regards the GAV valve or the jet operated by the knob on the choke rod. I went to my "Ford Service Bulletins" for the Model 'A" Ford and found the instructions.(Handy book for sale at most Model 'A" parts suppliers). And roughly it says (I'm paraphrasing) to open 1 full turn to start. pull choke out but release as soon as possible when the engine fires, (you must do the thinking for the choke instead of the other way around) then close to 1/4 turn open for most power but it can be closed further or all the way for better economy. If this doesn't work get a broomstraw or tagwire and start cleaning jets. Be careful to use proper fitting tools as some jets act as though they grew in place.

And remember, ignition timing is critical to proper functioning of your Ford.

 

Now that is friggin' awsome!!

 

Here is the info on the gen conversion: Ask for Ed.

E.J. Whitney Co.
529 S. Raymond Ave.
Fullerton, Ca. 92831
714-773-4963

http://www.ejwhitneyco.com/automotive.html

They convert them to 6v or 12v.


edit:

They only put out 40 amp. That is more then enough for most applications, but if you run halogen head light bulbs, it might not work out. Contact them to get the details.


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Thanks Pie, good luck on your back surgery.

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Thanks C.D.!

 

SoCool
thanks I would love to run 12 volts
later Bill

 

I 2nd that !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Hello folks, long time no see, about a year in fact.

I'm sad to say I can't be a part of the banger meet any more. I just bought a T but it's got a flathead V8 in it...

 

VTWIN-Ill try that filter you described. Im going to tear it apart this morning and try to get that other stock carb to fit. Surprisingly, from what I could see, the inside of the tank looked fairly clean. Well, for sitting as long as it did. Just a little dusty. Hopefully I can get the petcock on the bottom of the tank to turn so I can shut off the gas!

PLAIN BILL- The choke rod is missing the sleeve that keeps the rod together. Not sure if that makes sense. Im not sure if they repop those? Basically, I cant turn it from inside the cab.

 

They do repop that sleeve, but you can make one out of a piece of brake line if you need it in a hurry like I did. It is VERY important that you get the petcock to work, as Model A carbs are known for puking gas out all over your garage floor if you leave them on. I woke up to 1/2 a tank of gas on my carport floor one morning shortly after I got my truck running. The windows in the room next to the carport were open, so the whole house reeked of gas all day.

 

Choke rod sleeves are available from most "A" parts suppliers as an example Bratton's part # is 14730 but if memory serves me correctly we would use baling wire and wrap the 2 together with one loop or tie above and 1 below the notch. Of course this is no longer possible as there is no more baling wire but any sort iron wire such as tie wire would work. Just don't turn it off too tightly. In these days one could use stainless steel wire so as to dress it up for cruise night!

 

That is too bad. I enjoyed following your short racing career.