Wake up ! It's time, Sept 2009 Banger meet

Don't forget, tomorrow is the Route 66 hill climb in Devore. Racing starts at 8am.

 

I'll be there.

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Got my plate on. Took a nice long ride today, she runs awsome!!

 

Now it runs like it looks !!!

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My 15 year old daughter bought a pretty nice 1930 roadster. The body is pretty nice but the fenders are rough. She wants to remove the fenders and running boards (I agree). The rears were easy to take off but how many bolts are on the fronts and the running boards (2 pc. splash aprons) Do I have to loosen the body to remove the splash aprons, what is the best way to do this? Thanks!

 

Never mind.... I figured it out. Got em off.

 

anyone use a WICO Magneto for your "a'" 4 banger? if you do please let me know and pm if u dont mind wit ur #

also who is running a 39 or 40 ford trans behind their "a" 4 banger

thank you for your time
Paul =)

 

btw if no ones running a wico if they know of any good/ bad about them n anyone still make parts or have to go nos?

 

Hey.....Thanks CD!!! Ya know, the only shots I've seen of your car are the engine. I've seen the video too. How 'bout some pics?? I'm assuming that's you sporting the South Philly salute?

Now I need to address the trans issue! I'll be out of commission Oct 5th due to back surgury. That will give me time to gather my acorns. It's a bummer I will miss the fall cruising season. In the meantime, I'm gonna drive the wheels of her for the next 2 weeks!!

 

Caps, points, expendable items like that are still available. Some say that they work loose. I ran one on a daily driver and had no problems. Loosening problems may be with soft aluminum cast heads. I have bought parts on the internet, just google Wico mags.

 

Hey Bill, We missed you at the Hill Climbs today. I just got back. There was some neet stuff out there. It wasn't all that hot either.

I'll post pictures later.
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Ya, that's me with the double tall guys. There are some build picks in an album in my profile page. Good luck with the back thing.
Here's a picture from a model A pancake breakfast a couple of years ago.

 

How many of you are running an alternator? I would like to have brighter lights and more reliability, but it doesn't look traditional. What's your opinions?

 

I adapted a Power gen for a V-8 Flathead. It looks better then an alternator. There is a guy here in SoCal that modifies the stock A generator and makes it an Alternator. Looks stock from the outside.

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I adapted a Dodge 46amp, ext reg alternator to work in the stock location. Pretty easy to do and it at least doesn't look like a Delco 1-wire.

 

Delco 1 wire here. Looks terrible, but cheap and effective. Works great with H-4 80/100 watt off-road h/d bulbs. Haven't met a cop with a light meter ...yet! Drove 35 miles through deer country in the dark last night. I can see forever! Hope to get one of the stock looking units some day, but for now it'll do.

 

Newport Hill Climb: who's going?
This hill climb actually has a hill!
http://www.newporthillclimb.com/

 

Mazooma beet me to the post for pictures of the route 66 hill climb. Here is a thread.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=400062

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anyone got 2 cents for me
thanks Bill

 

Damn I wish that was closer to home! Thanks for the link CD

 

What is the reason for rotating the carbs? I would think that you might have fuel slosh issues under acceleration and hard brakeing that might pose some flooding / starving problems. Maybe your reasons might have benefits that would outweigh these issues.

My intake used 1.5" I.D. tube for the intake and Exhaust. Anytime you can make a flat head breath better is beneficial. But, big tubes without block mods limit any advantage the larger tubes would give you.

My $0.02.
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Im bout to fire the OLD banger for the first time. Help me out. Passenger side is a PULL choke correct? Also, the steering wheel levers; one is a dizzy advance, what is the other? Where do I want my controls for startup?

 

Been out driving again! 350 mile round trip just to do another three quarter miles...
Worth it just to get see this picture courtesy of UK Comet.



That's Artiki in the shiny Tudor, with me in the clown car. Won one, lost one, both happy.
22.5 @ 57 was the best the old barn could muster.
Home in 5 hours at a steady 55-60 till I hit the back lanes, warm n' cosy with a whiff of oil permeating the floorboards. Loving it.

 

Dunno if I posted a shot of this before - this is what's feeding the B engine in my Fordor. I've now picked up a second one to try. It's an 1-1/4" downdraft SU normally fitted to Rover 12's in the 1930's. A carb used on a 1500cc engine, feeding 3300cc? Seems to work OK.

 

This shows what I know - what do you do without a hill?

-Dave

 

The carbs are designed to be oriented so they do not starve when turning right or left. The wells are designed to feed the jets based on the fuel level in the float chamber. You might get a little fuel surge when accelerating but it would just slightly enrichen the mixture and most carbs are designed take that into consideration. Still not as much affect as with the carbs rotated 90 degrees. Older chevy 6's would starve when you turned one direction (can't remember which now) but you could floorboard it and it would starve out when you turned a tight circle in that direction

 

Some of the "hill climbs" are flat and basically just drag strip runs. This one is around 1800 feet long with a significant increase in altitude.

Newport Hill Climb 2008:


The Hill

Me and the Johnny Cash Special going up the hill during Practice Saturday.

39.5 seconds

The coveted competition sticker.

T speedster class before competition on Sunday.

A portion of Model A Row during pre-race inspection on Sunday.

Competing on Sunday.

41 sec.

 

The lever on your left is the dizzy control the one on the right should be linked to the accelerator pedal. It's kind of like a primative cruise control- pull it down and it actuates the accelerator just like your pedal does. If you're firing it up for the first time, you'll want to search last month's thread, find the post about timing and make sure you have it set correctly. if that's in order and you think you have the carb set right, push the dizzy lever all the way up, make sure the gas is on (lever pointing down), pull out your choke all the way and tap the starter. Full choke won't get it started, so the next step is to put the choke at 1/2 to 3/4, and depress the starter button. (You shouldn't need to full choke it every time you start it, only when it has sit for long periods or in really cold conditions.) If you're lucky she'll fire to life quickly. Mine starts on the first cylinder, so a quick tap of the starter is all I need. Which brings up another topic, make sure to listen for the starter to disengage, as they tend to stick in when they've been sitting. If it sticks try pulling out on the button, but be ready to pull your battery cable just in case. Luke

 

VTWIN--THanks! Im going to try it in a bit, ill keep you guys posted.

 

Good luck and keep the rubber side down!