We use both WD and Gibbs at my buddies machine shop and in WNY we get our fair share of cold ground/cold concrete/cold iron, warm humid air days where condensation literally drips off everything. We've found that Gibbs seems to protect machined/clean engine parts better than WD40...I think it gets deeper into the metal than the WD. My sandblasted and machined Y-block heads have been sitting in the shop most of the summer and have barely changed colors where as the bare parts are hazed somewhat and the WD parts are just starting to grow 'measles'. The WD does work wonders on drying out items that are water wet, however. My other life is spent in testing laboratories doing such nonsence as this.....next time around don't weld anything to your "test coupons". Punch or drill a hole and use zip strips or string to hang the metal parts from. Clean them up the same way as you did before and repeat the test...use new samples, not used ones and don't reuse the old test part. Like the others said, I doubt either of these products will hold up under water wash conditions, however, just leaving them in the bathroom (or maybe hang them high at the far end of the bathtub) to get minimal direct spray but plenty of humidity will be a better evaluation of the products and would be closer to thier intended use. -Bigchief.
Kerosene smells like a key ingredient in buffing compounds. Which, like kerosene should not be left on the paint for months, because it will cause permanent damage like discoloration or even cracking. I also knew of a mid 60s ford truck (in the mid 80s) that had been annually wiped with 30W every fall as a rust preventative. The painted part of the truck was solid, even though the paint job was shattered into a million pieces from the petroleum's drying effect. Everything under the truck was a rust hole, or dirt covering a rust hole. The scheme sorta worked I suppose.
Not sure about panel protection but I use LPS1 because it doesn't gum up like WD40. It's worked well/been cleaner all these years. If anyone is bored I'd like to see how it performs in the same experiment.
right! in neighborhood ACID rain falls.. thats more real world than chlorinated water.. I think bugmans test is LESS aggressive than real world..
I've been using both for a long time... WD-40 all my life, and Gibbs for at least the last 10 years...Although WD-40 is a better deal dollar for dollar, Gibbs is a FAR superior product. WD-40 has H2O in the formula, Gibbs does not, (it's actually a H2O inhibitor) this also makes it "gun friendly" where I DO NOT recommend you use WD-40 your favorite boom-stick! Both good products, but not really comperable... Just my $00.02...........
Gibbs works great as long as you keep the parts indoors and out of the rain. In the rain, it washes off and the metal starts to rust. Putting bare steel in the rain is a bad idea anyway. A better test would be to put Gibbs and WD-40 on some clean bare steel and leave it in the cold damp garage for a few months. I think for that test, the Gibbs will probably win. WD-40 is sort of like kerosene, and it eventually dries up. I don't believe WD-40 has silicone in it, because I have never had problems painting parts that had previously been soaked in WD-40. As long as you clean it well, the paint will stick fine.
According to Wiki: WD-40's main ingredients, according to U.S. Material Safety Data Sheet information, are: 50%: Stoddard solvent (i.e., mineral spirits -- primarily hexane, somewhat similar to kerosene) 25%: Liquefied petroleum gas (presumably as a propellant; carbon dioxide is now used instead to reduce WD-40's considerable flammability) 15+%: Mineral oil (light lubricating oil) 10-%: Inert ingredients The German version of the mandatory EU safety sheet lists the following safety relevant ingredients: 60-80%: Heavy Naphtha (petroleum product), hydrogen treated 1-5%: Carbon dioxide It further lists flammability and effects to the human skin when repeatedly exposed to WD-40 as risks when using WD-40. Nitrile rubber gloves and safety glasses should be used. Water is unsuitable for extinguishing burning WD-40. There is a popular urban legend that the main ingredient in WD-40 is fish oil.<SUP class=reference id=cite_ref-1>[2]</SUP> Although it is unknown whether the formula contains fish oil, material safety data sheets for the product show that the main ingredient is Stoddard solvent, not fish oil.<SUP class=reference id=cite_ref-2>[3]</SUP> [edit] Uses
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