hello what good information could some one give on engine support distance between engine and trans mount,say a sbc with front cradle mount to pg trans mount? The distance is 42 inches.Is it too much distance not to have support in between? body is model a with fully boxed model a frame.
I always thought the front "hurst" type mount required bell housing area support as well. I could be wrong.
I see what could be mounting holes on eitherside of the aluminum bellhousing, maybe there what it.s for, but then again I much wonder how weight can an aluminum bell housing support before cracking.
There have been a number of discussions on this issue.--Prevalent thoughts are that you can get away with a front Hurst style mount and a tranny mount if its a fairly mild street driver. If you are going to race or indulge in the odd burn-out, the transmission housings brake--BIG TIME!!!
i don't believe that an aluminum Powerglide has any side brackets for mounting , just the one on the tail shaft. i've always been told that those mounting holes on the side are for holding the transmission while assembling it the rule of thumb , and what everyone always says , has been not to use front mounts on the motor with the tail shaft mount on an aluminum tranny..that it is too long. if this is true , i can not honestly say for sure. i have used several aluminum Powerglides in hot rods and always used the side motor mounts...even though the side mounts on the motor are really only a few inches back from the front of the motor . i can't see how a few inches would make a big difference
That extra few inches makes a tremendous difference. Here's what I have done in the past, in situations where I had to use a Hurst style front mount on a small block. Make up two brackets that pick up 2 bolts on each side of the bell housing where the engine bolts to the transmission, and fabricate rear engine mounts from there to give some center support. Use early Ford style hockey puck mounts so that you don't pull a "torsion" into the engine/transmission package when you tighten them into place. With the front, rear, and transmission tailstock mounting you eliminate the chance of a broken tranny housing.
Like the others said. If the motor torques hard you could have a problem. You will note alot of movement in the motor if you do it this way. Many folks have run a many mile and had no problems. Ball is in your court. IMHO
i just measured a SBC , the center of the side mounts are 6 inches back from the front..big difference . i wouldn't run a front mount with a tail shaft mount on a aluminum case powerglide unless you made a side support mount like suggested
Okay Guy---This is as easy as I can make it. The grey and yellow plates are made from 3/8" mild steel plate welded together. The green part is an aftermarket flathead Ford front rubber motor mount, and the blue plate is 1/2" plate welded to your frame. They bolt to the rear of the transmission as shown to help support a small block Chev V8 with a Hurst style front mount and a transmission tailstock mount.---Brian
Looks good, why haven't you started production yet???? I would think there is a good market for these. Who has the equipment to make a run of these?
Really, there isn't that much demand. This is a fix for a poorly thought out drive train. Most builders know not to use front mounts on a small block Chev engine. These mounts were designed for a finished car that had used a front mount with no side mounts and broke one transmission already--The fellow had his steering in already and had no room for side mounts, so this fixed his problem.
I like this design .The hurst front mount and the pg trans are right on with with the restoration of this 60,s hot rod right down to the 283. To say it was poorly though out is to say the hot rod culture was a poor thought.
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