Event Coverage Welcome to the 2017 Meltdown Drags

I'm sure it was the Russians

 

That's good, must be your gapless rings holding back the beef.

 

Its a russian tune up.

 

I went with Total Seal rings in the little mouse, seemed like a good idea at the time.

 

Total Seal sells all kinds of rings, including gapless. My good friend Kevin Studaker works there. His Drag Week Chevelle wagon was mine and my roommates (Rick Roberts @ Edelbrock), old street/bracket race car.

 

They are the gaple$$ ones. I was looking at the Carrillo web site, are the aluminum rods a new deal....might be looking for a set will know more after the teardown?.....it's a different engine not the one above but still a sbc.

 

Been making aluminum rods for about 3 years now. Did you use gapless top, or 2nd rings?

 

Ric - what are your thoughts on my engine with really bad leak down and still running the same ET ? Nick thinks the engine is choked in some other place - like the exhaust is too small maybe. The engine didn't respond to the injection stack length either - which it should have done something. So if the exhaust is choking it, then the leak-down effects are negligible (?)

 

Good question I can't remember...I do remember they were about as expensive as you could get.....i'm thinking both are gapless.

 

Kool the professor is in!!!
Now I don't have to stand in the magazine rack.

 

You should try some .6mm total conform Pro Stock rings. $1850 set.

 

Dang I am going back to the magazine rack.

 

I'll look for you there @saltflats. Maybe we should look in the how to make money for dummies. [emoji15]


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By selling .6mm Pro Stock rings![emoji16]

Scott


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there are several good rod manufactures out there. grp will recondition the rods for free as many times as you want. all aluminum rods need attention after some use. the big end gets smaller and needs to be honed back into spec. the pins need to be removed first. figure that work into the cost of cheaper rods. custom rods really open up a lot of options for your engine. we were using pontiac rods in the hemi. they are the same as the hemi they just have the tang on the other side. i could then get the bearings at auto zone for more than half the price of the hemi. now i use bbc rods because the bearings are cheap and i have a much wider selection. these are just two examples. do some research for your combo. there may be some power or cost savings out there.

 

I think the exhaust was definitely hurting it, but more of it may be better air in the fall helped it run as good wounded, as it did un-wounded in the crappier air of the summer. The conditions at the Meltdown were much better than last year, but still not stellar, and I noticed that several cars we ran against at the Meltdown, were two tenths quicker in the fall.

 

I'm going to take this engine apart for inspection. It should be a period jr. fuel 302ish type build but I have no idea what's inside. The injection and mag are going to FIE for a tune and whatever work is needed. FIE wants a bunch of engine info and I have none so it's coming apart. If I find a set of older aluminum rods in it.....jeez.....I'm probably going to look at new ones. We did a leakdown in the pits at the last Meltdown and it's good, everything I've seen from the outside looks nice so hopefully it won't need much but how many of us have said that?

 

Can I ask what might be a good rod to put in a 306 build we are putting together? Nothing crazy. No boost no power adders. Stock 302 roller block.


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I would say a Chevy rod but you may want to ask someone else.

 

Stock rods with ARP bolts will do what you need Gammz.
Once the re-sizing etc is done,some guys just go with a set of Eagle or Scat 5.09" rods,but I would compare prices for machining what you've got & adding ARP bolts vs going with aftermarket rods.
I would say ARP bolts,ARP oil pump driveshaft,and spend the majority of your money on making the heads work,and getting a really good running carb.
Also,if you can score a decent set of headers for it,go ahead.I forget what it has on it now?


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Connected to a chevy motor would be best and if you really want it to run mopar or no car lmao


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So Jackson are working on one of your Hemi's

 

I'm adding this hood ornament also, I've had the chrome part as long as I've owned it , but picked up the insert that will be lighted . not sure if it belongs on a gasser or not but have wanted it since I got the car. should make for a neat pic at the starting line for the night races with only the Indian head glowing.

 

That's bad ass!!!

 

I have been thinking about this one...it sort of looks like an Austin logo eating a pony.

 

No I'm still working on other people's stuff but I have started on the new motor for the willys and the digger


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Good luck with that one.Hopefully your $10,000 worth of efi,cylinder heads,and cam upgrades can help your supercharged big block Chevy catch my naturally aspirated,small cubic inch,small tire Ford.
I think you've got plenty of horsepower....Time to work on fixing that loose but behind the wheel.[emoji6] lol!

Scott


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Don't use Eagle I beams! They pull in .002-.003 at the parting line (3 & 9 o'clock), when you torque them up. The Scat I beams are pretty trust worthy for an economy upgrade over stock rods. By the time you polish beams, shot peen, new bolts, and rebuild stock rods, you'll have already paid for the Scat I beams, and the stockers have who knows how many gazillion cycles on them already.

 

GAZILLION is a lot! LMAO



Ray

 

That's Portuguese for "a crap load"!