Agree to rid those rivets....not a good application here. But I have a question: why would welded-in bungs be stronger than simply welding the shock mounts to the frame all around?
With all due respect, I'm thinking that being concerned that a brake line mounting point is below or close to the scrub line isn't half-backed.
If you simply weld a plate to your mount that lays flat on the top or bottom of the frame & put 1 more bolt in that plate , again w/ rivnuts, you'll take the shear load off those side bolts & everything will be happy !!!! K.I.S.S. principal dave B.T.W. , where is that brake hose below the scrub line??
I'd check my shock length also. if it's bottoming out it could be to much force for that brace to handle.
I would pull that shock loose on one end and check the travel both ways also. Just to be sure. I would have a welder type guy TIG the bracket on. JMO. Lippy
Too clear things up... It is a 4 bar on the front axle. The brake lines are above the scrub line. The shocks have 5" of travel and they are pretty close to the center of the travel as mounted. But now I REALLY am confused about how to mount the shock mount. The problem with the internet... Too many solutions!! But thanks for all of them. Bill
Last question on this topic... In the picture that shows the bolts that hold the mount on, you can see a stiffener on the mount. How about weld the mount on and add a stiffener to the inside of the bracket that also welds to the top of the frame? That would take some of the stress off the frame side.
Go over to T-Bucketeers , under suspension forum the first thread is "front end bounce issue" There is a real good picture of how a front shock mount can be mounted.. hope this helps dave
When I did my 57 I made solid,threaded one end bungs(stepped down one side) for every bracket etc that was to be bolted to the frame. PO's had drilled through the frame and put long bolts and squished the frame. For your application I would look at making a hole the cross bar(under side) so that the stepped bung could be welded to both sides of the frame. For the other bung, drill through into the edge of the bar enough for the bung to be welded flush. Hope this helps.
I think it is a 21st Century concept, be afraid of everything. There is a modi*** of truth to what is being said about flexing differences between a tube axle and a beam axle. From an engineering standpoint yes the hairpins put more stress on the tube than a 4 link would but the same can be said for a 4 link and a beam. Hairpins have been run on tube axles as long as I have been alive. I don't recall ever seeing one busted because it was running hairpins and hair pins were the most popular setup for a tube axle prior to pete and jakes marketing a 4 link in the '70s. All that said I would use weld nuts and bolts to hold the shock mounts on.
Those are similar to mine but have the extra mounting plate on the top of the frame. Mine were actually made by someone on the NTBA Forum. They have worked for 6 years. Thanks, Bill
Seems like one of the better ideas so far. Peronally, I would do that but with the backet lying flat on top of the ch***is and only weld it along the top corner of the square tube rail. I would definately not weld across the section of the rail.
The Jalopy Journal
