Stiffness is important, but you don't need heavy wall thickness to achieve stiffness. No need for FEMA, the calcs are readily available.
Multi p*** welding will be okay for all joints. I've mentioned that but seem to have been ignored. How do you think they weld 1" plate? A 1000amp welder? Nope. They use multiple p***es and build the weld up, standard engineering practice, and I'm surprised the concept has been ignored here.
hey joe how big are you going to make this english wheel? how deep and tall? what are you planning on shaping with it?. what kind of wheels are you going to use? you might not need to make it out of 3/8s. there more than one way to skin a cat
You and the concept weren't ignored, just not understood by the hobbyist garage welding advisory commission.
i didn't ignore it. i just needed to build up some more knowledge to appreciate what's been said in this thread. i am watching a lot of video on welding right now. all forms. what kind of welder was used to make the welds in the picture?
i don't know yet. i do know i want to make most of my own shop tools. i agree there are lots of ways to skin a cat. i will most likely use the hoosier profile wheels, etc. because they seem to have a great reputation and because i do not think that's a good place to cheat/save money.
If you have a 110V 20 amp service go buy a Millermatic 211. It can run on 110 volt and later if you get a 220 service it will run on that. It is capable of welding up to 3/8" steel using the 220 side. It will weld up to 1/4 inch using the 110 side Best of all it has auto set which makes it really easy for a beginner. Welder runs about $1000 but it is worth the money.
since i decided to start with arc welding i purchased the steve bleile arc welding videos. i am very impressed with the quality of these videos! i think i can learn to produce quality arc welds with practice and frequent review of the methods he teaches.
I weld some thick stuff every now and then, i use way more amps than what the guys are claiming to be able to weld with. I like penetration so maybe i overdo it. There is a lot of structural info on english wheels at allmetalshaping.com. You might give Kerry Pinkerton a call at Imperial Wheels. He builds a very nice machine, some are big. I came to the conclusion that you can't build one for what it costs to buy one - professional quality that is.
from watching the steve bleile arc welding videos, i would conclude that you and everyone else who said multi p*** welding is okay for all joints is correct. seems like it's all about preparation and knowing what you're doing. see no reason why a small welder can't be used if you make the time to prep the joint properly and use accepted techniques to weld multiple p***es. one thing i am not sure of is can you mix different kinds of rods on the same weld joint?
Joe, one of the things you might want to do is get the Lincoln Electric welding manual (I don't know the exact ***le, its a thick black book) that discusses joint design, covers all the processes, gives you the correct settings, etc.) I imagine you could find one on e-Bay or Amazon, used is fine, and you'll find it very helpful. In my house in Las Vegas (NV), the builders put two 110 outlets on one wall of the garage, on separate breakers, and if you had an electric dryer you could pull one 110 (20A) leg from one and another 110 (20A) leg from the other and have 220 available. Make sure to check with an electrician on this but it's how I remember it.
interesting. with two 15 amp 110 outlets on separate breakers you can create 15 amp 220 or 30 amp 220? do you mean the book ***led: new lessons in arc welding by lincoln electric company? http://tinyurl.com/88mu9hg
FEMA? Federal Emergency Management Administration? Farm Equipment Manufacturers ***ociation, or what? Bob
That would be 15 amp 220 but the breakers must be one on each leg of the panel. Keep the fire extinguisher handy and be sure the insurance covers stupidity.
what is the spec i look for to see how many amps i need to run a welder properly? maximum start input amps? maximum running amps? something else?
The "model number" of the welder usually reflects the output amperage (Lincoln 225, for example). The input amperage is available in the welder specs, and is basically the size breaker service you would need to run the welder at full load.
If you're talking stick welds, you can change rod types whenever you want. I'm not sure why you would want to though....not really a good idea from a strength standpoint.
Generally, mild steel rods of various alloy can be used on top of each other. Stainless can be applied to mild, not mild to ss. Since you are a beginner with stick welding, you should practice (alot) with some of the various ms rods: E6011; E6013 (some call this farmers rod); E7013; E7024 (also called 'easy arc'). Play with these until you are actually good before moving up to the low-hydrogen E7016 and E7018. The 6011 will burn through just about any garbage on the steel including paint and rust. Crank up the heat and use this for a root p*** on multi-layer welds. Strong but not usually 'pretty' welds. Slag can be a PITA to remove so keep a gringer handy. The 6013 truly is an all-purpose rod, lays nice, looks good. The 7024 make very pretty welds. Easy slag removal. The flux coating on the rod is thick so it is not a rod to get into tight corners with. It does not easily burn through its own slag very well so prep is important in multi-p***. Practice, practice, practice...
not enough amps to develop enough heat..as far as im concerned you could pre-heat the area to be welded with a torch..but why bother. either get the equipment you need, or take it to some one who has it
videos i have on arc welding done by steve bleile state that some rods give better penetration and others give a nice looking weld bead so i got the idea that maybe it might be best in some situations to use both.
Some mentioned pre-heating before welding. Hell if your gonna pre-heat, you might as well keep on going and weld it with the torch. Bingo. Done. No breakers, no 220, no 110. We control the horizontal, we control the vertical
thanks! just to make sure i have it right, it would be no problem using 6011 and then using 7024 over it to get a pretty weld.
Joe, Once you melt that base metal and add filler to the molten puddle, you have made a molecular change in the material. You've brought carbon out of suspension and mixed the base metal with a different alloy steel (different tensile strength). That's why the weld area tends to be much harder than the pure base material (just try drilling through most types of weld). Every time you re-melt the area, you create a larger amount of "disturbance" if you will. Multiple weld p***es are a fact of life when necessary. IMO, if you can weld it up in one p***; just fill it and be done with it.
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