Welding Helmet ...I can't see what i am doing

Yep. Plus I was always told use it as dark a lens as you can still see. I used to use mine at a 10 and at night I couldnt see street signs while driving. Now, I am typically between 11 and 12.5 and can actually drive at night.

 

This may have already been answered and yourt problem is solved. But, here I am at age 66, long time TIG welder. No issues with vision. But, when I fire up my old Miller 35S MIG unit, I could not see where the arc, bead, was. Too dark. Need a lighter adjustment? NO!! A friend suggested that I adjust my shade to a darker setting.
IT WORKED!! I still canot MIG worth a damn, but at least my blobs are where I want them. I find TIG so much easier...aluminum and steel. Maybe practice is needed.

 

So . . . any better?

 

I used an auto darkening helmet for years, and the only reason i changed was because I worked with a guy who could weld water with just his eyes shut, if you know what I mean...and he was totally old school.

So, I took his recommendation. Got a basic helmet, a gold lense, cheaters, keep everything clean, and put light on the weld site.

The gold lense was the ticket, for me. Amazing difference.

So now, naturally, when someonew asks me "how do you weld?" I just give them the "Just time under the helmet, son" line.

Which someone taught me, of course!

 

Keep in mind that the auto-dark helmets have a timer and if you set it down for a while you'll need to push the "on" switch again.


It can help to have a small bevel on **** welds.
Gives you a line to follow.

 

is the sun behind you? that can be a problem for me sometimes

 

I have the same problem welding. I'm 59 and the eyes aren't as good as they once were.
I think the issue is that by the time my eyes adjust to the rapid changes I have either blown thru the metal (sheetmetal) or the puddle has gotten too big.
On thicker stuff, once I get a puddle going I can pull a decent bead.
I have tried 5 different helmets, 3 fixed and 2 different auto darkening. Both of the auto's were expensive ones that I bought used.

 

I don't care for the auto darkening lenses for 2 reasons, one they are expensive and in my line of work they give out easily. We run Nr-232 fluxcore, .072 wire size. that process is like a volcano erupting right in your face. We often have to weld it very tight places and if the lense gets too hot, its toast. I use a cheapy 35 dollar fibre metal hood that attaches to my hard hat. i keep a few different shades in my lunch box. i keep a 6 for when i am torching all day, a 9 and 10 for when we are in dimly lit areas and a 12 for when its sunny as a mofo outside.

Are you doing most of your welding indoors? if you are, you might want to get a lighter lens.

 

Probesport , thanks for the information on the Miller auto dark .
My question is what is the difference from the $100 one to the high price one besides the fancy helmet ?
I have bi-focal gl***es and I have a Lincoln and can't see **** ! When I start welding all I see is a tiny light . So I want to get an auto-dark , BUT which one ? I only used for my own use and only use for sheet metal and will need for frame work sometime , mostly sheet metal work . Don't care what it looks like , just need to see !

Any help will be great !

 

The extra $30 will get you an adjustable shade, slightly bigger viewing field, faster speed, sensitivity control and delay control.

A couple bucks more gets you some pretty colors.

 

i was having similar issues and found that if i lit up the work area with a halogen work light problem solved.