Hot Rods Well I Did it! After Years of Somewhat Secretly Pining for One. Now with Progress Updates!

You nailed it! Dash insert is much much better. Awesome job! I've done some woodgraining before, not sure of the process you used (guess that's coming) but very satisfying work. Yours looks perfect. Having watched your other build threads, is there anything you can't do? Lol

 

Fantastic…how to thread, please!

 

Thanks. There are a few convertibles in the queue...under the pile on the far side of that O/T Camaro (which isn't getting sold anytime soon btw ) hides a Corvette C2 convert. waiting for it's turn in the shop along with the '48 on the lift...they're both waiting for the '38 club cabriolet which is currently taking up space in my shop to be done (at the metal working stage). Though the '38 is on temporary hiatus while my attention is distracted by the new deuce.

Thanks, I'm a few months away from the fun part yet...I want to correct things like...2 of these only being decorations...as is the air conditioning compressor/system.

and then there is this...

The start of the correction is taking shape while the dash is out and looking like this (please ignore the tangled mess of wiring coming out of the Vintage Air unit...cleaning that up is still on the "to do" list )....

Along with correcting some brake, steering and front suspension issues and the exhaust system and a few other aesthetic changes. All part of making a car your own and being able to have confidence in it while heading down the road.

 

I d be very interested in your burl/wood graining process.Looks great. Thanks

 

I'm starting to feel '38 Cabriolet withdrawal symptoms.

 

@1-SHOT , @lake_harley , @hotrodA ,@A Boner , @Chainsaw chipper , @SS327 , @Budget36 , I know some of you guys have seen this, but thought I would edit the post to directly link all that expressed an interest in a "how to faux wood"...

It'll be a few days before I get the next batch of interior pieces ready to faux burl wood finish...so to speed up the info being passed along...here are 2 videos I watched...I used the general graining process and the red mahogany stain color choice from this video:



With the "plastic bag magic" shown in this video:



As a side note, for the knots, I used the the same red mahogany color, but in the gel stain. I used way less "graining" than in shown in the second video.

On one of my batches I didn't care for the finished look, so after letting it dry for a day, I simply wiped it all off with lacquer thinner and started again. Per the videos, the tan color that was used on my interior pieces to start with was the perfect base for the faux burled wood. I finish with a few coats of spray bomb high gloss clear.

 

I just realized that I kind of let this thread die on the vine without showing or detailing any of the updates (both mechanical and personal taste) I made to bring this car up to "road warrior" status.

So, continuing on with the interior theme (this was aesthetics for personal taste). I had a couple spray bombs made up that actually matched the interior color and sprayed the little brackets for the sun visors, rearview mirror etc. that were that tan color. (note the small hair in the paint was removed before install .

And the rest of the garnish moldings and trim parts were detailed with more of burled wood treatment. While I'm not crazy about the overhead console, I had no interest in redoing the headliner, so it was re-installed. Here's a before and after comparison (albeit taken with different cameras, different light and from opposite sides of the car...but you get the idea).



Next up, still in the interior was a combination of the electrical upgrade and interior aesthetics. The dash had a couple of the plastic A/C duct vents hanging under it...this style.

They worked, but I didn't care for the afterthought add-on look to them. The PO also went with a wide array of hidden switches and controls under the dash. There were rocker switches, toggle switches, rotary control knobs etc.. I appreciate the hidden switch style, but I didn't care for having to fumble around under the dash to find the various controls. i also didn't want to try and memorize that the rocker switch was for the windshield wipers, and the toggle switch was for the interior lights, unless it was the toggle switch on the right, then it was for the headlights etc.. So I decided to build a sub-dash panel that would hold the A/C ducts, all the switches (including the ignition switch that got moved from the column to the dash...more on that later), heater controls as well as incorporate a couple small storage shelves to hold sun glasses, a hidden phone charger, etc..
The car had an 80's era GM style column with shifter, key and very large mast (I actually think it might have been an AMC column that they sourced from GM back in the day). It looked too large for the interior. It was held in place with a clunky sheet metal column drop that was painted that tan color and covered with sheet metal wrapped in carpet. I never took a photo of that, but here's an early build picture provided by the PO to give a feel for it.

I replaced the column with a tilt, no shifter, no key Flaming River column (I know, 1-800-streetrod...but it was a quick solution). I machined a new column drop out of aluminum. I moved the shifter to the floor using a Summit brand shifter (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-700062) with a Hurst handle with an early Ford V8 knob adapted to it. After spending some time turning control knobs on the lathe, I'm very happy with the interior outcome.

The next topic(s) will be more mechanical in nature. First up was the brakes. Frankly, I couldn't stop the car. Stepping as hard as I could on the brake pedal felt like there was a 2x4 under the brake pedal preventing me from being able to push the pedal all the way to the floor. I documented my braking journey in a separate thread hoping it might prove helpful for someone. Following is a link to that thread:

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...e-thread-a-story-with-a-happy-ending.1289583/

Upon driving the car for the first time, I realized that the front wheels would not return to center after a turn/corner without steering wheel input. A quick check of the caster confirmed it had 0 degrees of caster. I experimented with the 4-bar and discovered there was enough adjustment that I could dial in 6-8 degrees of caster but that put the spring into a hard bind at the perches. So, out came the front axle.

I installed a set of these adjustable spring perches.

https://www.est1946.com/adjustablefrontspringperches.aspx

While the axle was out, I also put a small C-notch into the front frame at the cross member to give a little more room for spring clearance/suspension movement.

Next up, I decided to improve the fan shroud. It had one of the ABS plastic shrouds, where you locate and cut your own hole for the fan. I'm not sure what cutting tool was used, but I suspect it may have been a beaver! The plastic had a number or cracks and chew marks. This build shot doesn't show the cracks and chew marks, but it shows the style of shroud.

I removed it and built a new shroud out of 18 gauge steel. Here's an early in progress photo.

Next up was the binning of the smoothy hood sides...they were replaced by the Rootlieb "25 Henry Louvre" side panels. The Louvres are very deep and open (such that you can easily see through them). Before...

During...

And after...

The rear suspension received some upgrades as well (though I have no photos of this work)...including replacing the rear lowering blocks with heavier weight steel (the originals were made from light weight 1/16" wall tubing), adjustments to the rear shock angle (original shocks were mounted near horizontal) and installation of bump stops.

I then turned my focus to the exhaust system. The original exhaust hung too low. It was mounted below the chassis and under all the cross members, had angle cuts to change direction(s), ran below the rear axle, had broken hangers with near zero miles on the car and had 'Ricky Racer" type exhaust tips that were reminiscent of the '80's era boom tubes. Here's a build photo that kind of shows the exhaust.

And a photo that kind of shows the exhaust tips...

I didn't take any photos from underneath the car when I did the exhaust...but it's now all stainless, mandrel bent, tig welded (my first foray into tig welding stainless), routed within the chassis and cross members, goes over the rear axle and exits along side the gas tank under the frame rails with simple down turned tubes. Here is a wide angle (and distorted) view from underneath the rear of the car showing the tucked up tight exhaust.

And, the exhaust tips from above.

Another simple change I made was to re-install a stock style trunk handle and latch. When I first received the car it had a hidden button activated electric latch. And, when I say hidden, I mean hidden! It took me quite a while to find it! It was hidden under the upholstery behind the seat. It was a pain in the a$$ to find, get to and activate. Over time, i could see the grubby fingerprints that would accumulate in the area trying to blindly tap around until found. Further, once activated, the trunk lid had nothing to hold onto to lift. There was an array of bent up "lift wires" stored under the carpet which were to be used to hook the edge of the trunk lid to lift it far enough to get fingers underneath and finally lift it open. So...the smoothy rear trunk profile was eliminated in favor of an old school latch and handle. Before....
and after...

This and a number of other repairs, adjustments, improvements and the like put me on the road for the summer of 2023. I rolled about 3500 miles that summer taking in the pacific northwest. It was my first summer cruising with other like minded hotrodders from California, Oregon, Washington, BC etc.. We call ourselves the CanAm Curmudgeons. While travelling on a trip with the group, we were recorded by a guy (we weren't sure what he was doing!) that has a youtube channel documenting the BC car scene. His video is kind of cool!.

 

Man, can’t wait to see that 3W so I hope you’re putting it in the Deuce Days show this coming summer.

 

After driving the car for the summer of 2023, I decided a few more upgrades were required before the summer of 2024. I felt the engine performance didn't meet my expectations. I got some lower than expected compression readings when tested and I thought perhaps the smogger era heads were holding it back. So, I found a set of camel hump 327 heads. They received a set of guide plates, screw in studs, fresh valve springs, guides, valve and seat grind and seals. I also gave them a mild pocket porting, exhaust passage clean up etc.

Once I got the old heads off the motor, I could see however the fresh .030 bored 350 had vertical scoring in the cylinder walls. This was likely the cause of the lower than expected compression readings and was probably a function of fuel washing the cylinders of the fresh engine when the PO tried running the tri-power carbs the way they were set up. This culminated in him blocking them off as he never could get them to run properly. I remedied this as part of my earlier efforts (I figured if you can't get a tri-power carb set up to work, you better hang your head in shame and hand in your "I'm a hotrodder" membership card!). Anyway, the old short block got yanked.


And, I began putting together another fresh short block to go along with the fresh heads. The block was bored .030", rotating assembly was balanced, received hypereutectic flat tops, a retrofit hydraulic roller cam etc..

I really wanted to run these cool polished and detailed Corvette valve covers along with the tri-power.

But I struggled with excessive oil consumption through the PCV system during and following the engine break in. I documented my efforts in this regard in the following thread.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...evised-pcv-baffle-in-intake-manifold.1313932/

I still haven't resolved the issue other than by using the modern style finned aluminum valve covers with the built in baffles, breather and PCV holes. My theory is that the retrofit roller lifters throw a lot more oil around the lifter valley than a stock set of hydraulic flat tappets as they're taller and have the tie-bars. I'll get back to working on that problem in the future (I really like and want to use the early Corvette valve covers).

Along with the fresh engine, I wanted to come up with something other than the three small individual air cleaners.

So I spent some time hammering out and welding up a new 18 gauge mild steel air cleaner base (using plywood as a hammer form).

Followed with some time on the bandsaw and milling machine that turned a chunk of 1/2" aluminum into a new top.

After a bit of polishing and paint detail...and, after the engine was placed back in the car.

While putting on miles to break in the fresh engine, I found this little Canadian hotrod on the side of the road on my way to Whistler. Having previously owned a '36 Ford quadraport, I thought it was picture worthy.

With the addition of the new windshield sticker, I was now ready for the summer of 2024.

As many of you followed along and commented on our 2024 Can-Am Curmudgeon 4200 mile plus road trip...it was a great summer...and I'm looking forward to 2025 which will include Deuce Days in Victoria (as a Deuce owner for the first time no less!). Just in case you didn't see the 2024 road trip travel log, I've included the link below...

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/good-ol-fashion-hot-rod-road-trip.1318366/

 

Nice updates to a rod that was already quite nice.

 

You turned a nice purchase into a great ,reliable hotrod. I also really like the burl dash. If you do a HowTo ,I'm in.

 

Indeed, I'll be there. I look forward to connecting.

Thanks!

Thanks...I posted the videos that I followed. It was a pretty easy and rewarding project...the secret is in the plastic bags used to dab the still wet brushed on stain.

 

That s a great looking air cleaner. What is the source and part number for the element?

 

Beautiful hotrod

 

Thanks, I'll get the part number of the filter element for you tomorrow when I get down to the shop.

 

Here you go...(I almost forgot...).

 

Thank you. Now I have another thing I need to make.