I was checking out my buddies ford which he had shot with epoxy primer and wet sanded to 1000 grit and ended up with a nice suede finish. Just a nice bit 'O' sheen !!!! It looked damn good Color ??? Well I'm thinking about shooting my truck in a canvas carport but I know due to my skills and a little dust in the air it will be far from perfect !!!! I'm thinking metallic base gunmetal grey or oxblood red !! This is were I am interested in the wet sanding !!!! Which flat/satin paints will take a wet sanding to smooth out my blems ??? Should I shoot a base coat and sand or would a single stage poly be a better bet. My truck will be exposed to the elements so sealing all the body work/bondo is a big issue !!!!! Thanks alot !!!!!! Here is the beast
Don't have your answer, but your truck is rad! Actually the second time I sprayed my car with "Trim Black" my gun was spraying like crap..so I wet sanded it and it did get a nice sheen to it...but I did notice the color (black) did lighten up quite a bit.....
as far as i know, all of the major spray and play single stage stains will not take a wet sand without compromising the finish.
I know that they say the Hot Rod Flatz that I used on my Ranchero can't be sanded after spraying. Not sure about any other brand.
The texture of the finish will hide dust. If you wanna put more effort into it, then it deserves to be glossy. Everybody's all hung up that you can't paint gloss outside but you can. Black is black is black. So consider painting it with single stage gloss black enamel one panel at a time if you have to and skip the ratrod look (truck's too cool for that). Just my opinion.
A base coat will not seal up the bodywork, base coat really needs the clear applied to work properly. I would use a single stage paint for what you are trying to do and as for brands that is up to you, I use PPG and House of Kolor but that is probably a little pricey for what you want to do with your truck.
The only benefit of the suede look is that you dont gotta color sand. If ya dont mind sanding,....just gloss it! base.......600 wetsand clear.......600 wetsand clear again.....600 wetsand.then 800, 1200, buff......SMILE and YES,....that goes for first timers outside too!
Black is not always black spray a panel with high end ppg and then spray a panel with the next step down in ppg and hold them side by side and you will be shocked ! Pat
I wish my body was straight enough for shiny but it ain't !!!! That where the satin comes in !! It looks good but I'm no magician and this truck has gone through the ringer in its life !!!!!
I've done'um with DP-90, GM fenderwell semi gloss black, Kirker semi flat black, SpitzHeckler Single stage semi flat black, and good ole shake and shoot Krylon semi gloss and still like the Krylon the best because I cleaned it with Foaming Bubbles tub cleaner for a nice smooth look and it was really easy to spot in and seemed to last. Truck in now across the pond in England and the last I saw of it it still looked good.
Thats the same intel I have. If you wet sand a suede finish, it will need to be buffed to remove the sand scratches, thus putting a gloss on the topcoat. Usually with a suede finish, what you spray is what you get. If your worries about dust and dirt, it won;t show as much in a suede finish. If your worried about runs and such, best bet is not to run it. Or sand them out after the fact and blend back in.
Sanding any paint is going to result in the color looking "washed out". It just won't have the same color it would in raw basecoat or with a satin clear on it. Metallics in particular don't usually look great once sanded. The slick flat finishes you see of metallics or semi-gloss colors are usually a flatened single stage or a flat clear spayed over a normal base. They make flatteners for clears, or they make pre flattened clears, like PPP Flex and Flat Clear. This is a favorite of mine. The only problem with flat clears is that you really end up with what you shoot. You can't sand just one area, and you can't polish, cause it will shine up. Which is the point of your question. Your looking for something in which the sanded finish is the final finish so that you can eliminate any dirt, bugs, or orange peel. Unfortunately, I've never really seen anything that works like that, at least without sacrificing the color of the finish, like I said washing it out. The best I could suggest would be to shoot test panels and try different sand papers. I will say this, the finer the grit, the less likely you will see a lot of scratches. I would start with at least 1500 and finer. As far sealing out your prep work, use a single stage urethane or base/clear urethane. Primers are porrus and allow water and such to seep in to them, and really dont offer any protection. They also tend to stain and chalk up with age. Not that I haven't run it as a top coat, especially when budget was a concern, but if protection and long term wearablity is a concern, I'd go with a cataylized urethane system, no matter if you flatten or sand.
Do a little body work, block and prime, and block and prime some more, then do a little more bodywork, block and prime, and block and prime some more again. Like stated above, do it one panel at a time if you have to, and paint it with colour. Sure it will take a while, but eventually you do get done, and you have the satisfaction of knowing you "stuck it out" until it was right. Like the old adage, anything worth doing is worth doing well. If you're subscribing to the current fad of fake primer (Swwwaaaaaade!!!!!!!!) because you like it, or just want to "belong" in your peer group, that's one thing. If you are doing it just because you're being lazy and don't want to put in the time and/or money to get it right, or think you "just don't have the resources and the skills" to get it right, that's quite another. Bad bodywork and/or lousy prep may not be quite as obvious when it's not under a glossy finish, but it's still obvious. You can always sell the "flawed" piece, save your money for a while if you need to, and buy one somebody "got right".
I like to use a good sealer to protect whats under the sealer...then shoot a nice metallic basecoat ....start with a light first coat,then a heavier second coat and finish with a nice 3rd coat. do not sand it after this. If you want to do it in a controlled environment rent a booth for a day (I rent mine out for $150/day in Vallejo) I have had excellent results shooting in a garage also....but the neighbors were not happy! Personally I like the look of suede and it can be done for under a couple hundred dollars and less than 1000 hours of damn prep work. Shiny paint just doesn't work for everyone.
Are you talking single stage when you say "basecoat" or actual BC. No topcoat over a base is a big no-no. It may work for you guys in Cali where it never rains and there is no humidity, but it doesn't work here! Other than that, I entirely agree.
I used hot rod flatzpaint. Carnival red semigloss pearl. Mix it all at once. Spray it all at once. You can't buff it without it shining. I've been washing truck with green kitchen scrubber to remove overspray. Do bodywork as good as you are capable of, it won't hide poor work.
I love the truck!! John Deere Blitz Black, It doesn't care who sprays it, the stuff still looks good. I hope I can post a pic of my 48 Dodge truck....
yes just basecoat over a sealer.....guess we can get away with that here....but I like to change my paint every year or two anyway!
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