What Aftermarket Model A frame do I use??

I used a Brookville perimeter frame. Just the most basic boxed frame with 3 cross members and 2" kick in the rear. It also had all the stock body mount locations. I feel it was the best foundation I could have started with.

 

TCI - strong , can't go wrong.

 

I've not been too impressed with TCI stuff lately. Too much of an ***embly line mentality, imho. Progressive and Cornhusker turn out good stuff. I think your best path would be to work with someone like hitchhiker and get the stock frame done. I'm building a '32 Chevy and the only thing left of the stock frame are the side rails. I still think that's the best way to go if they're usable.

 

my coupe has a "step boxed" stocker....that being said....if i was building it now , it would be something fabricated (box tube) .....sure the holes and stock mounting areas look cool , but its still flexible....couldn't believe how much it flexes at the steering box sitting still.... down side to most aftermarket ch***is...they need more kickup than most make...(but thats because i like my junk half way low..... ) if you are building a highboy think 32 style....

 

Thanks for your input! I plan to run fenders, so I will check out the TCI frame.

 

Check out my friends frames. Riley Automotive. They are nice and the price is right. Eric will treat you right regardless of what some might say here on the Hamb.

 

I haven't looked at Pete & Jakes yet, but I will. I know they have been building hot rods for many years and they are worth taking a look at.

So far, the majority has refered to Brookville, TCI, Cornhusker, Boling Brothers and just build one or modify a stock frame. I really appreciate the feedback, this gives me a great foundation to continue my research and hopefully make the best decision possible on what direction I want to go with this project. My goal is to build a car that I can drive every day of the year and go any place across the country, so I want to do it right the first time; everyone's opinions are great. Thank you; and by all means keep them coming.

 

J.W. Rod Garage. Check thier website. I used the basic perimiter frame and welded all my own crossmembers. I think the frame was around $600.00 3 years ago. Nice strong unit, and they have made some improvements since I got mine.

 

Check out this thread ... this HAMBER used a Pete and Jakes frame with a SBF and a 4 speed. Lots of photos in his thread

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=593537

 

Awwww, you don't have time, well I guess its a good thing all these good people helped you with answers, so you didn't have to waste any of your precious time searching, which would have probably taken less time then this thread.

 

listen to the fellas suggesting boxing of an original frame. they know whats up. oh, and u could probably buy a mig for what u would pay someone to do it for u.

 

I agree, Ive bought a Dry Lakes Suspension Kit and a Double Z frame from Riley...Ive never had a issue. His link is posted below

http://www.riley-auto.com/MODEL_A_FRAMES.html

 

If you can get the DMV to put a VIN tag on your door jamb you would be way ahead later. Then go back and tell them you changed the frame and need on for the frame.

Charlie Stephens

 

Oh yes lucky you - you got yours did you! I ordered one of them from him 18 months ago and he booked my CC for $2500. He delivered $500 of parts and then ignored me for ever.
There are plenty of parts suppliers out there to use without playing Russian Roulette with that fool. Just do a search on here for Riley Automotive and you'll see I'm not the only victim of his. Eric has been BANNED from the HAMB for life for stealing peoples money. He stole $2000 from me - and that's a lot of money for me.

You've been warned!

Ed

 

I know a lot of people have had issues with him....just saying. He hasnt done me wrong (other than not giving a little advice about switching rear crossmembers on one of his frames) and I wasnt trying to rub salt in the wounds of those who have. I completely understand you...$2000 is a **** ton for me too....the day that someone takes that kinda money from me, I'll be on a plane, train, or automobile to jump on someones desk and kick their teeth in.

Back on subject.....not all DMV's put a VIN on the frame. NC does firewall and door jam (gotta figure out how to remove and save). Have to check with your local DMV....I would try and ***le it before you modify anything

 

I purchased mine from Mr Moms Rods and Restoration, located in Montana. Quality work and very reasonable price.

 

Heinzman hot rods!!!

 

One call to Austin speed shop would get you an answer.
Bob's there now. He makes a nice set-up. The adjustable rear spring mount is a nice set-up, giving you a lot of options for the rear height. Piero's "Live Wire" rides on a Bleed Sweeper frame. And Bob is good people.

 

I've used their frames on two cars and problably will use them again in the future.

 

X2! Bleed is the man!

 

got mine from derrick campbell out of Durham NC, he did exactly what I asked him to do and did it for a very reasonable price. mine was less than 1000.00 including shipping and the price of a good original model a rear cross member. I think the base price is around 600.00 plus shipping. he was also very patient and answered all my questions without making me feel stupid. I had a nice original frame and came to the conclusion after about a year of research and gathering other parts that a new frame was the way to go for me. (going to run a hemi engine). I can get you his # if you would like to talk to him. send me a pm. thanks good luck.