What are some of the things to ask and look for when buying a used one? ON ebay or swapmeets? Has the bolt pattern changed from the old to the new after market ones?Thanks, BS
First check the splines. If they are tweeked it could indicate that the car it was in may have been wrecked. So, the first thing I'd look for is straight splines. Secondly I'd check for smooth operation and tightness. The aftermarket ones I've seen are exact reproductions of the originals.Good Luck, dug
[ QUOTE ] What are some of the things to ask [/ QUOTE ] how about "why do you think I should pay a hundred dollars for this grungy old box?" Paul
YOUR SO RIGHT? 60's Style And no one is willing to make a deal..... I wish they grew on trees. They do in the VEGA system but thats to far. Thanks, BS
I think you best bet is to buy a whole car. I bought one 2 weeks ago for $100. Maybe look for a Astre or Sunbird.
HRTH or anyone else...would there be a running Vega four cylinder and auto******* involved in any of these deals you speak of???? (Oh...yes I WOULD!!!!! )
Fat Hack: I've got 2 Vega automatics & a complete engine I'll let go of. I'm in Dayton Ohio. The $100 car I just aquired came with a 2.5l & I think a TH350. Good deal @ $100.
[ QUOTE ] Fat Hack: I've got 2 Vega automatics & a complete engine I'll let go of. I'm in Dayton Ohio. The $100 car I just aquired came with a 2.5l & I think a TH350. Good deal @ $100. [/ QUOTE ] How much you want for the 2.5 and the TH350...(The Vega motors and******* are FREE, right? ) Hmmm...gas prices going up...four cylinder rusty*****box deathrod...this could be groovy!! I'll start collecting cans and bottles to get a motor and******* from you today!!
I'v seen a bunch of Vega boxes that have the worm bearing surfaces screwed up. They are dead soft and unless you are really carefull getting it the out of the Vega they will get damaged. Turn the stearing shaft and feel for indexing. When the bearing surface gets pounded in makes the shaft want to stay in the low spots. It kind of goes and stops as you turn it. Also look at how far the adjuster is screwed in. Deep is bad. Check to see if in has a stiff spot mid travel. Good!!! If not probably just needs adjusting. By the way, There are two versions of the box that I know of. One has needle bearings on the sector and one has sleeve brngs.
Fat Hack: I don't want to let go of the 2.5 & TH350. I have been thinking the same as you. Not free but cheap. How's $50. Where are you located?
I'm up in Michigan...$50 sounds good if the motor runs and the******* works! (Vegas used a torque arm, ya know...and if a goofball were to enginner a way to adapt that thinking to a stock 49 Chevy rear axle...and then make up a way to mate the 'driveshaft'...) How far down is Dayton???
Early Vegas didn't have a torque arm....and your 2.8 is sounding better all the time!!! LoL (Not sure what year the arm was introduced but the couple I worked on...73's(?)...didn't have it. they had a 4 link. I'd guess the General introduced them later to take some load off the*****py unit body. Bill
I'm not picky anymore...ANY engine that is semi-sorta MODERN (70s or 80s prefered!) that will FIT in there without cutting the firewall ribs or monkeying with the steering is Fair Game at this point! Chevette motor? Why the Hell not??? Hell, a Vega four is REALLY LIGHT...as long is it runs and the auto******* is good...I'm game!
My first new car was a 1971 vega....the steering box is about the ONLY thing I didn't thrash to death on that poor little car.
yes,it's just nutz the prices that vega steering boxes are going for now...used ones go for $100-$150.... new ones either flaming river or mullins are about $350..i use to go to the junkyard and buy them for $10 , that was 15-20 years ago.
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