Technical What are you working on?

Color code of wires isn’t GM in my eye’s.

 

Maybe

 

Winter Changing Of Fluids In The Bombs..

 

Looks similar to the layout on my Painless, if nothing else you can see what fuse is what. My original painless from the 90's had thick pink wires like that, but they were numbered to correspond with their chart (before they labeled wires).

 

Need some hood aides for the Avatar
Cardboard aided design...

I had to trim some protrusions around the carb. base to clear hood panel..

Finally able to use Dzus tabs that Marty Strode made for me ~5yrs ago..
First time for me installing Dzus fasteners...they work awesome..

Getting closer...

Red on the latches will go away...planning on louvers soon...

 

finally finished my woodgrain.

 

My brother Erik (@embyman68) on here lining up for a go at punching some louvers with his newly created Louver Press.

Concentrating.....punching like a hot knife through ****er.
Backside.. Frontside..





Nutserts and lineup pins installed on hood top. Very happy with the results..for a couple of amateur fabricators.. at some point I would like to make a blister for
the alternator and also some type of scoop/blister for the air cleaner.... we'll see if that happens. Rich

 

Cleaning up junk

 

Got the 39 trans in my Roadster

 

Pulled the front sheet metal off the Tempest. Arizona cars are super rust free but man there is fine dust EVERYWHERE...I'm not a huge red fan but it is a pretty nice shade.

 

I was in the mix of restoring a 62 Impala SS that is a California car. I never had bolts come out and look like new before. Living in central Missouri we don't see that very often.

 

Lumpy graciously gave us a pair of Ram Horn manifolds for Papaw. I changed the exhaust pipe flange studs and backed out the old ones by hand with no heat, trouble or drama. I’ve never in 34 years of working on cars and trucks ever had that happen. My guess is they were California parts and came from a dry area.

 

I hope to see some driving videos as soon as spring arrives in your area Andy

 

I wish man. I don’t know what it’s like to remove a bolt without a struggle.

 

It's the same way for my stuff. I only get lucky every now and then on customer cars.

 

I still don't try and loosen lower fender bolts... it usually breaks the tangs off the captured nuts. I tighten them until they snap off.

 

Lumpy, that sheet metal is amazing. In the northeast, dust makes rust!

 

Lumpy, we are down to the front brakes, master cylinder, and shifter. We are using Bendix backing plates from a car on the front and someone had drilled a bunch of extra holes on the lower side and reamed them out when they didn’t line up. Little Truckdoctor welded up the holes and ground down the welds. Then we accurately located the holes and re-drilled them. The last thing we got done was to paint the backing plates before the weather turned cold and snowing. I’m going down to Lloyd’s in March to hang out and work on his wagon. I’ll pick up the shifter then. I’m hoping to have it ready for a car show and open house at my Alma Matter, Ranken Technical College, on April 5. Little Truckdoctor is seriously considering going there for Diesel Technology.

 

Pix after paint, Andy. We need pix after paint...

 

Finished the rear suspension My pal Dennis stopped by with his coupster , he just got it back on the road after some upgrades

 

Ok, I’ll shoot some after the paint job, but just to warn you, I got lazy and didn’t bead blast them. I should have taken the time, but was running late the night we painted them.

Today, we removed the Huck brake drums from the hubs. The Bendix style drums mount differently and I’m going to take the hubs to work and steam clean them. The wheel studs were swedged to the hubs. I’ve read various threads on here, but we’re not completely clear on what people were talking about. Not wanting to buy a swedge cutter or ruin my hubs, we drilled the *** out of each stud, then drove them out forward. I should have taken them out to the shop and used the drill press, but damn, it’s cold out there. We used a hand drill and my arms are tired.

 

Messing with an R10 OD
Had this solenoid that came with some parts

Works. Came with a gm set up so should be 12v still cleaning it up to look for numbers
The longer one is what was with the Merc trans

these reverse lockout switches ohm out. But seem to be too short to make contact with the internal shaft
And I guess I need to either carefully unfold the terminal crimp or clean and solder a new wire on the governor.

 

Workin on the interior how dose the front and rear arm rests supposed to fit?
1953 Ford Customline two door

 

prob good you aren't teaching them english ...anthony!

 

Clutch done. Bellhousing done. Engine in.

 

what am I working on?
not much.

pulleys came in for the pieced together blower setup.
I'd already cut the idler bracket and pulley stands down so the new pulleys went on the little lathe and got cut down to match,
and measured for and ordered a snout



Saturday was swap meet day,
'found a vintage replacement for the cheap modern temp gauge on the run stand control panel

 

Ok. Laugh all ya like.
283 crank pulled from a “rebuilt” engine. They were 1/2 correct. Had a crank kit, new cam and lifters with a hone and go.
Never cranked. Caked full of white lithium.
Dang near turned to glue. Could barely turn it.

brake cleaner won’t touch the old white lithium.
Machinist said the crank was fine spec wise but recommend I polish off the grease residue.
So I cleaned the best I could and plan to chuck in a lathe to cut and thread a dampner bolt hole.
Polish the crank on the lathe.

 

Getting material together to build this...I'll make the 3 main sections to unbolt for easy storage