Technical What are you working on?

New Plug’s!? Where’s the nos ones?

 

hydraulic lines etc on the Belly Tank build. JW

 

When you don’t have a press.

 

Nothing left to do but cut it, I think I'll stare at it awhile longer to make sure I'm good with it.
It's directly in line with the filler but not exactly centered, there's only a couple inches between the two pipes, so I doubt a hose will flex between the two angles if I move it up.

 

Bitchin!

 

Got temporarily sidelined on my Vette. It seems a rebuild kit for a hipo fuel pump doesn’t exist? Might have to do a jury rig with a standard one… still looking.

 

Iv'e done a similar deal as this except I found yet another use for duct tape.

 

I had the 97’s on my SBC rebuilt locally. When the engine was started for break in, we found that the emulsion tubes were not cleaned on any of the carbs. We had my brand new stainless steel lakes headers on it for the break in. Both headers got very overheated due to the lean condition of the carbs. Today, I used a metal polish ( white Diamond ) on a red 3m scrubby. It did not all come out but enough so they look like polished Stainless

 

I have a maintenance and improvement list for my red coupe. Since the Stude pickup is running and registration is in the works, I turned to getting the coupe ready to hit the road. When I got it, it had a lovely Chinese chrome starter. It broke the minute I got the car home and went to take the wife for her first ride.

I threw it under the bench and installed the mini-starter from the sbc in my roadster. I didn't care for the look but it was back running in fifteen minutes and the wife got her ride. A year later and the little starter is making ugly noises so I'm fixing it again.
I dug out an old factory Chevy starter and went through it. It's fine now but it's close to the block hugger headers so I had to wrap the head pipe.

 

Next was, get rid of the street rod tailpipe tips. I may add chrome pencil tips if I can find some.

The 3rd brake light/license light has got to go. I'm going to build a traditional nerf bar for the rear, I just haven't got to it yet. It's getting '39 taillights too.

 

I forgot to mention #1 on the list; No Brakes. The M/C is a new fruit-jar and it was fine, it seems that the Midland power booster failed. It's a '55-'57 T-bird unit. I made a jumper line and just removed the booster from the system, mostly just to get it back on the road. The coupe has 4wdb so it may take a strong leg. At least it's drivable.
The booster, rebuilt, is around $489, the rebuild kit is $271 and I still end up with a single fruit jar system. Nah.
The trans crossmember is in the way of a longer M/C, so any real upgrade will require some re-engineering and fabrication. Later.

 

Changed the oil and spark plugs, fixed a small leak above the oil filter, and put some new skin's on the front. Went with Firestone DeLuxe Champion's this time instead of BF Goodrich Silvertown's. Still 6.70X15 though. Just waiting on the 10.00X15 Radir Slick's to show up!!!

 

I dug out a 9 inch carrier that I won in an estate sale auction, turns out to have had a repair started.
I thought maybe I could build a new more spliney carrier for the Henry J out of it, now not so sure.

 

Anybody else ever have to lick their calf? Damn sealer...

 

Is that Maderia Maroon?

 

You know what day it is
••• 427 •••

 

Ford toreador red pearl. FL is the paint code

 

Got the new front wheel bearings repacked and the rotors back on the front of the ‘64 Barracuda. Students turned the rotors a few weeks ago while we were doing brakes. I’m waiting for seal kits for the four piston Kelsey Hayes calipers and the master cylinder then the brakes will be done and on to getting the engine in.

 

a 64 cuda came w/ discs? or aftermarket?

 

Discs were optional in ‘65, someone had put them on this car before I got them, so they are factory brakes just not on this specific car.

 

thanks!

 

I took the red coupe out for a little run to visit my friend Jim and see how his roadster is coming along. Well, that was the idea anyway. I made it down the hill and onto the road that leads to the highway and it cut out - you know, like someone momentarily turned off the ignition. As I continued down the road, it did it again, and then again.
Let's see, it's got gas, the temp is only 185. Hmm, the tach drops to zero when it cuts out. So, I turned around and headed back home. It got worse and worse, even backfiring out of the exhaust. It stalled at every stop but it restarted ok. The cars behind me musta thought I was shooting out the windows. Thankfully, I made it home.
I hooked the DVM to the + side of the coil and watched as it cut out. Of course, it didn't do it right away, but finally I saw the coil voltage (13.6v) drop to zero along with the tach. I left the fan off and let it get up to 220 but it didn't affect the frequency or duration of the cut-outs. Sporadic would be the word.
Today I pulled out the ignition switch, cleaned and tightened the connections (they were a little loose and dirty). I'm not describing the distributor because it's really not kosher here. Suffice it to say that it's aluminum and it's pointless. That's why I bit the bullet and put a full hood on it. Up to now, it has run too good to start yanking all of the non-traditional stuff off of it.
The drivetrain in this little beast has been rock-solid (and fun!). I'm disappointed, but I'll get it fixed.

 

Started cutting and fitting up the 32 Chevy hood sides to the coupe.

 

Replaced the torn tie rod boot. Replaced both boots, even though one was still ok. Greased the fittings afterward.

Then replaced the master cylinder and bled the brakes. After a lengthy test drive, I think I’ve finally arrived at a working combination. Pedal effort and travel are now reasonable. I may still need to modify the rear drum setup, I think I have too much front bias. That still needs investigating.

 

Over the weekend I bolted on the bed and added a fender to the wife's PU.

 

grocery gettin' in the grocery getter

 

I'm burning up angle grinder motors and strip discs on rust.



Phil

 

Don't put anything light at the top of the sack, it'll blow out lol