Technical What coating for cast iron & internals?

I will be cleaning up our quickchange project soon (machining is all done!) and want to paint it with something that will prevent rust as it sits on the shelf until use. BITD guys used to use Glyptal or even Rustoleum on internals of engines and other components. The stock Ford banjo centersections actually had a red paint coating of some sort too.

What is the best currently available product? I would probably like to thin it down a bit and dunk the center into a bucketful. Lots of nooks and crannies now that need coverage a brush can't reach. I will then wipe the paint off the machined surfaces where bearings and such will fit.

 

No help, but that looks like some nice work

 

I imagine Ford, as well as many other manufacturers used red lead primer BITD, but that’s been gone for years.
I wonder if it might be easier to just paint the outside with the primer and finish coat you want and then keep it in dry storage.

 

Hmm. Protecting steel and iron parts from corrosion and rust while in storage . . ?

Sounds like a job for Cosmoline!

https://www.cosmolinedirect.com/

 

Yes, Cosmoline or maybe Waxoil.

 

We use a blackening process not terribly different than folks like Harley Davidson and others used BITD just to impregnate the surfaces of the cast or steel parts with oil that acts as a rust inhibitor on some parts that don’t make sense to paint. I am struggling to remember what Harley called that process, but remember a buddy using it on several parts when he restored his 36 Harley years ago. It is a dunking and heating process to do it.

Oh, and parts look great!

 

I have always used the Rustoleum Red Oxide Primer (brushed on in the lifter valley) & years later when I tore them apart it was still well adhered to it.

God Bless
Bill
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ar-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/

 

fill the bucket with oil, and leave the whole thing in it for storage

 

I've done that with ring and pinions and drain oil.

 

If you absolutely positively don't want it to rust, I'm with the bucket of oil deal. I have an 8-3/4 in a bucket now.

 

The process you're describing sounds like Parkerizing. I think it's also commonly used in gunsmithing as well.

 

YES! Thanks! I can quit trying to figure that out now.

 

Love that product. Use it on the Bottom of my Mower decks. Bullit Proof!

 

Years ago it wasn't uncommon to see a Parkerized finish on the lobes of new flat tappet cams. The finish didn't seem completely hard like a plated or painted finish. Supposedly it was very slightly porous and allowed oil and assembly lube to cling to it much better than a smooth, machined bare metal surface. Very helpful for holding lubrication on a new flat tappet cam that might sit in an assembled engine for a while before being fired up and broken in.

It wasn't/isn't a terribly complicated or expensive process but it doesn't seem to be done much anymore on new flat tappet camshafts. Though I have seen that at least some of the new cam suppliers will Parkerize their cams for an additional fee. With all that's been written recently about new flat tappet cam break-ins and failures it seems like the additional Parkerized finish might be worth the extra cost.

 

I wouldn’t buy one that wasn’t.

 

Parkerizing is a brand name for the generic process iron phosphate treatment. Like Magnaflux is a brand name for magnetic particle inspection. Basically the iron phosphating process produces an iron phosphate coating on the steel, which is a thin crystalline stricture that can help hold a subsequent oiling of that surface. It is a dunking, chemical process. Not electrical like plating.

 

I’ve seen people use red insulating varnish for electrical windings in engines. It comes in brush on or spray cans.

 

That's what Glyptal was developed for. It's great for sealing up castings, as well as a supposed benefit for oil drain-back in blocks. IIRC it doesn't cure fast, but if parts are going into storage, that shouldn't be a problem.

 

I would not paint or coat the inside with anyhing other that a spray oil. If it has to sit for an extended time put some more oil on it later.
Any kind of spray material such as paint will flake off eventually and get in the bearings and gear teeth. It is a poor lubricant.

Nice looking machine work. Not so much on the welding.

 

I use this stuff on special things. Its sort of a spray grease, stays greasy, washes off easy https://www.lowes.com/pd/Fluid-Film...c8dfb384635d10e27769d1876cbe8513&gclsrc=3p.ds

 

I did the welding on the front snout. First welds with my brother's giant Lincoln. That thing would weld up a bridge. I was a bit inexperienced with it. The rest was done by my nephew, and he did quite a bit better.

The old quickie we are using for an example was stick welded. Not as pretty, but it sure held all this time.

 

Chainsaw chain oil, Has a wax in it. Stays on chains going real fast.
Bucket of oil is the sure bet.

 

Since (I guess) they don't put lead in paint anymore , maybe something with zinc in it , unless that's been banned as well ? I used to get zinc dust primer from our farm store , worked very well ! The rear under my T was coated with por15 top coated with spray can rustoleum 22 years ago , couple of chips but no rust ( 50k miles)

 

I would say this is your answer.

 

What about the Gibbs product? I've seen several comments regarding using it on bare metal body work .

 

alchemy, Try Fluid Film from your local John Deere dealer. I have never found anything better. If you can not find it locally notify me on Hamb & I will send you a can. speedshifter Greg White

 

I don't remember the name of it (hopefully someone will chime in), but Boeing developed a spray for this use. Never used it, but reportedly it's top notch stuff.

 

Parkerized, like a WW2 Government 1911! A 195 degree hot tank dip.
(skip to about the 5 minute mark)