bright and light colors are the best all around. as said yellow would be my first choice before white.
My Plymouth is 1967 Ford "Springtime Yellow". The car looks real good from 10 feet.....but if you get to looking real close you can see the less than perfect body work. Funny thing....I take the car to shows and cruise-ins, people give compliments and never seem to see the flaws. So......perhaps yellow, or light green, light grey or "baby" blue. Found a couple examples--- Seamist green............. Jonquil Yellow.......
Made me chuckle. White can be a horrible colour for showing stuff, but a semi gloss/matt colour would work well, or just spend a bit more time prepping it and paint it the colour you want...
I'd go with Wimbledon White...Ford color used from the mid '50s through the late '70s. Has a slight yellow cast to it is not as harsh on the eyes as Chevy code 10. In addition to it just being a more attractive white it also has another advantage.....it's possible..and likely...that you'll go "snow blind" while shooting your car.. The brighter the white the more likely you find yourself getting lost in the paint. Easy to get runs that way and lose control over the way the paint lays down. You also need to be aware that white will show dents and bad body work as much as any other light color so in that regard painting it any pastel color will accomplish your goal as easily as white. How bad is the body now??? Does it just need to repainted with little or no collision work or is it beat up?? The biggest issue regardless of the amount of repair work needed is blocking. Take your time, get some instruction, and block it carefully throughout the process and you'll end up with a nice job. Single stage A/E is the most economical and easiest material to use. Not all require a catalyst, too, which could be a big plus for first time effort, safety wise.
A few dings here and there, hood needs a lot of work, little rust behind front wheel, otherwise, really good shape.
And you can still buy it in a spray can from the hardware store for touch-ups. I'm planning on going Wimbledon white on the Rancho at some point, it's a nice color.
I so hate flat or dull,guys now think it was a finish,never ever was,its primer...............on the way to shiny, do the work,you'll get way better if ya try harder and paint it a nice shiny color you like andc it will last much longer and look better then some dum ass flat
1960s Ford colors Phoenician yellow and Springtime yellow are pretty forgiving too, and they're nice light shades, look good on a lot of different stuff.
I covered over the disco stripes on my conversion van with Rustoleum white out of a spray can. Of course, it began to sprinkle, so the last of it got done in a hurry -with the runs and so on to show it. From 20 feet, it still looks great, I even got a complement on it once. So, yeah, white is forgiving.
Lark in Vanilla Shake paint AND a rusty Silver Hawk!!!! ''I wanna go where the lights are low where I can go'n spend my dough an dance with the dolly with the wooden leg''
Gray/silver because it eats up the light like white does to hide bad body work but it is darker to help hide bad gaps because it has less contrast. I have also had good results with champagne.
Black. With a roller. I'm not kidding. Do the best job you can. Primer the whole car with 3 thin wet coats and let it dry really well. Sand quickly with 100 or 120. Do not bear down hard, and if you go through the primer, leave that area and move on. Primer again with 3 thin wet coats. Let it dry. Sand quickly with 240. This is standard bodyshop practice from the 30s through the 70s for getting bodywork straight without spending too much time. If you really want to go perfecto, at this point you can do a light guide coat of a contrasting color, sand lightly, and find the flaws. When you have it as good as you can get it (or give up in despair) go over it lightly with 360 or 400. Then, paint with enamel with a roller, wet sanding between coats. This is by far the cheapest way to get a decent paint job. You will also learn about 1,000,000 times as much about doing bodywork, as you will by any other method. When you get done don't worry about the small flaws. Detail the car real nice, polish and wax the paint, polish up the chrome, and be surprised by the compliments you get. By the way I don't insist on black. Use whatever color you like. If you use the roller method you will have to use plain enamel, no metallic or fancy paints. If you never heard of the roller method do a web search for "$50 paint job" or "Tremclad paint job" or possibly "Rustoleum paint job".
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All funning aside ,Dick Dake I know you will come out on this smelling like a rose....... pictures of 1939 Pontiac Ghost Car When the going gets tough the tough get going!
"Whether you think you can, or you think you can't...you are right." Henry Ford. The cost of a DIY paint job is in materials/supplies, it doesn't cost that much more to a job you'll feel good about. 90% of a great paint job is in prep. and it's not that difficult to learn, it's just work. White sucks, paint it a color you like, but what do I know....I painted my last two shiney black.
The Jalopy Journal
