Technical What did you do today?

So nice!! Love the color!

 

Crap. Younger wife and I had to move my '38 Ford 221" flathead engine about 30 feet to the front of my shop, across lawn.
Simple enough, so we used an 1/8" piece of aluminum sheet. It's 36" X 40", has a slight 'rolled edge' on one side, so that's where the 1" hole is. Piece of chain, my severely raked (Calif. Super Cool, Big-n-Littles, reversed wheels, lotsa motor) white '66 VW, hook up to rear bumper brackets, and 'sledded' the flatmotor right up to the open rollup door of the shop!
So...A 'Hamb Unfriendly', moving a Holy Artifac, doing a great job. Hey, it's Raked!

 

Thanks, I put a 312 in a 53 Merc truck a very long time ago, and couldn't remember what I had done to put it in.
That is the nice thing about digital cameras, it makes it easier to memorialize what we do on an installation to make things fit.
Bob

 

Did the Mercury trucks in '53 have the Y-Blocks in them, or did they have the Flatheads like the Fords did in 53?

Re-read your earlier post and I think I left out that I used the rear mounts on the bell housing.....

 

The 53 was a flathead, and I believe that it had the same engine options as the Ford at that time. Some years did have different trim and grills. I don't know if the Mercury was an upmarket version of the Ford or not, but from my personal experience, I didn't notice any big differences.
I still have a M350 Merc 1 ton, that was built in 67, and all the sheet metal is the same as the Ford.
From everything I can remember, the Merc 1/2 ton, was just a Ford that was rebadged so that the Canadian Mercury, Lincoln, Meteor, dealers had a truck to sell. Back then, it was as common to see a Merc on Canadian highways as it was a Ford. The Ford Motor Company stopped making the Canadianized versions of their products in 1968 because of the auto pact that was signed between Canada and the US in 1965.
Further reading:
http://www.mercurypickup.com/mercury-truck-history/
Bob

 

Interested.....I will have to check it out. I live close enough to Canada to come across the Canadian Fords....

 

Had a busy day today. It actually started Monday afternoon, but since I don't sleep on one of the drugs they have me on for some cancer treatment side effects, days tend to be 36-54 hours long for me. Cheating, I know, but we'll take it! Got to feeling enough better from the last immunotherapy session I figured I had to make some progress before next weeks sessions start up again.

Ordered a set of cowl patch panels for the '26 T coupe body. Also ordered the panel that goes below the trunk lid. Those will let me have a rust free body combining the 2 '26 T coupes I have except the doors will still need some patch panels. That can wait a bit further down the road, at least this way I will have a complete, square, rust free body to build around.

Got the 2nd '26 T Coupe body unloaded from my pickup finally this afternoon. Got it from Raven here on the HAMB, picked it up last Sunday but haven't had time to unload it since we got it home. All the parts for the "Dirt Track T Modified" are at a friend's shop since I don't have room for it at my place. I am in the process of taking the '32 down to a bare frame for some paint work to start but that's further down the page.

Narrowed the Frankland quick change I'm actually using. First cleaned it up a bit and removed 30 years of dirt track from it. Also cut the old steel tubes down in it so I have a 51.5" wide hub to hub distance on the wide 5 hubs wheel mounting surfaces. Can start some mock-up work now to decide on the actual backspace for the wheels we are making from '36-39 centers in new 16x10 hoops. Planning on hairpins with nerf bars on them, rear coils with weight jacks, old skool dual tube shocks and 5" diameter rear springs with a J bar coming off a pinion mount to the left frame rail. Very basic dirt track rear suspension.

Dropped my '37-41 round back spindles off at the machine shop with the Coleman Racing stock Impala to Wide 5 spindle adaptors. The Impala pieces are being slightly modified (ID bored to clear the '31-41 inner bearing surface) to make the '37-41 spindles take a normal dirt racing wide 5 hub so the front and rear hubs match. Threaded the spindles another 1.25" so the adaptors will screw all the way to the spindle face once the adaptors are turned to the correct size internally. Pretty simple deal in the long run.

Dropped the '60's issue HRE (Howe Racing Enterprises) magnesium wide 5 hubs at another shop so they can spend some time in his parts cleaner/cooker. He uses only hot water and it has a drying cycle so it won't kill the magnesium hubs. We've cleaned other mag parts in it and they came out nice. His is the only one around here I trust doing these hubs. He knows the value of old magnesium parts.

Pulled the hood off the '32 and started taking it apart (told you I would get to it further down the page). All the steel parts are going in for paint prep and epoxy primer. Plan is to get all the steel in primer, put the car 100% together and try to jump thru the hoops to title/license the car. Pay my taxes and get my plates. Then we'll drive the crap out of it until winter gets here. The it will get blown apart again and correct any issues that have shown themselves and put the real paint on it.

Busy day. Tomorrow is a road trip for some parts for the T project, put the races back in the W-5 hubs and maybe get some suspension parts ordered for the "T".

SPark

 

took the 69 vette to draggin in the 50s at new england dragway and won the hotrod class 21- 22 cars ran 10.833 at 123 and change with a383 t 350 it as a pretty good day

 

Found my gremlin!



Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Started my new design job this week, and the boss says that if there is some down time to draw up some car parts and make them on the machinery.

 

Sealed and put on first layer of insulation on my old AS .
Blue

 

Nothing, and I'm not finished yet.

 

Stained my top..

and rebuilt my carbs..

 

Worked on separating the cowl side panels with firewall from the subframe front half of the 30/31 A tudor sedan I hauled back to FL from SD for my son's tub project. It had been on its roof for many years and the complete subframe is in very good shape. We'll be attempting to mate up his roadster cowl and doors with the sedan rear for a tubster.

Lee

 

Jumped in the coupe and just went toodeling around in town for about 30 miles..Life was good!!!

 

me too, out for a drive in the nice warm winter sun 24C temp

 

New LED lighting. No more working in a fruit cellar.

 

Eight drill bits and five pounds of sweat later I got both front floor board braces (feet) separated from the cowl on my son's '30/'31 A Tubster project. Saved the really nice subframe to attach his roadster cowl to. I swear the Ford body assemblers got paid by the rivet and spot weld.

Lee

 

I did this last month, I was amazed at hpow bright my shop is now, and also hot dirty it was. HRP

 

woke up, got outta bed, dragged a comb across my head...

 

Now that song will be in my head all day.

 

Tell me more about your light . I’m in the market for new light in mine . Live 150 miles from anything and will have to get hem off Internet . Thanks , Blue

 

I had mine installed by an electrical contractor. The ceiling is about 14ft high and I can't reach it. They used a lift. They removed the old hanging ugly fluorescent lights and connected the new sections with small conduit and mounted flush to the ceiling; no hangers. They also altered some switches for me that were a pain in the butt. There were 13 units, LED quads. The shop is 2400 sq. ft. The new lights put out about 2 to 3 times the light and are supposed to use less energy. Also no ballast. Parts and labor came to $3900. It took two guys about 10 hours and they worked fast. You could probably do this for about one third if you can do it yourself. I will do my garage myself. These things are so bright I am sure two of the 8ft quads will be plenty in there. At the risk of posting an OT vehicle, this section of the shop has two of the quads installed, to perhaps give you an idea of how well they work. There are no windows in this stall.

 

Painted inner fenders and core support.....9 days to get'r done....

 

Did some more today..

 

Hyperikon T8 T10 T12 LED Light Tube 4FT, 18W (40W-50W Equiv.), Dual-End Powered, Ballast Bypass, F48T8 Fluorescent Replacement, 2360 Lumens, 6000K, Clear, Garage, Warehouse, Shop Lights.

I got them from Amazon and I was able to use my existing fixtures and remove the ballast, just changed the wiring around inside the fixture. HRP

 

Put the miles on the new to me engine in the F100 today and so far its good.

 

I worked on the headlights on my truck and cut tools up to fit.