Hot Rods What do you look for in a quality restoration?

This reminds me of another passion of mine, 18th Century American Longrifles.

Builders try to recreate these and restore originals. Building and restoration are two different things concerning these, but I want to be brief.

Those guns were built in a “workman like manner”. They were a tool of the middling class.
That was a very artful period, some things were expected from the trades.

Many present day builders build guns that are too finely finished to be a period firearm. They build a gun finished like a fine Continental (European upper class) that is just too fine for an American Rifle.

My main point is this.....
If somehow through a time warp, Jacob*****ert and John Phillip Beck ( perhaps the greatest of all 18th Century American rifle builders) could enter a modern builders competition, they would loose.

Back to cars.....

If through the same time warp you were to drive a 1931 Model A off the lot from the fall of 1930 to a 2025 car show, it’s very likely the new ‘31 would loose, maybe not even place in the top few.

In both cases, the “judges” have no idea what they are looking at.

On the other side of the coin are the very primitive unskilled junk passed off as authentic.

One thing I find kind of comical about the long rifle community is some guys will buy or have built, a rifle that would have been too nice for King George III and then get a custom “authentic” ; which means a high dollar shooting pouch, that looks like it was sewn together by an 8 year old.

Think rat rods and very homemade farmer stuff done on purpose.

I highly doubt cross cut saw blades were ever used as windshield visors.....

 

High quality paint job means higher quality body work and prep, IMO. "Block them like they are going be black, gap them like they are going to be white". High end products lead to high end paint jobs, try cutting into a cheap clear coat and trying to get the swirls out or seeing what was once a straight panel develop waves, blisters, sanding scratches, etc. I am not sure if there is a perfect paint job, but I have seen some that I cannot detect flaws in. And I am picky.

I have restored a lot of muscle cars and like @anthony myrick said, I am guilty of over restoring the paint and bodies. Brand new muscle cars in the 60's/70's were 10 footers, with a welding helmet on.

 

Especially metallic colors

 

Late 80s early 90s GM paint formulas.

6 months after paint job.....When half of the hood and roof topcoat flies off at interstate speed leaving grey primer.......

Nailed It!!!!

 

One of my favorite examples is early 70's Mopars. You go to a car show or cruise in and see a ground cable attached to the engine that is not covered in engine paint and overspray, it is over restored. Mopar attached the cables to the block prior to painting. I can't do that.

 

That’s why I’m glad we don’t do restoration here.

yawn

 

I'm gonna disagree on the Model A reference @F-ONE . I have a lot of gennie Model A and early Ford pics. They were lovely cars when new, when spruced up for a photo shoot, in showrooms, very, very nice cars. Model A cars (not pickups) were wet sanded and polished completely and the fenders were wet look baked pyroxlin black finish. And super consistent from car to car. If there's any community more***** and accurate it's Model A*********s. It's a photo finish race between them and the Vette guys. Vette guys take parts off their cars to see what's up (!) in some judging levels.

Maybe to the point tho, yeah we have memories that glamorize reality. I get the rifle thing too. We see some of those shenanigans in speed parts. Like you, gotta know yer*****. I don't mind top shelf craftsmanship, but I have very little positive to say about wet sand and polish under a fender, or polishing frame rails. In fact I think it's unfair to the client. Packard, Duesenberg, other fine cars, they never did that*****. I would expect if mine was sprayed super nice but not buffed and my closest comp was buffed? I should get the nod for authenticity and take the win. Doesn't always work that way. GNRS? Ridler? Sky's the limit.

 

I would say panel fit, door, hood, trunk gap consistency. Opening and closing of door, hood trunk. Paint waviness, welding and suspension****embly.

 

This is way beyond what I'm trying to do. I just want it too look nice and not ever rust again.

 

Why metallic colors?

 

*****py looking single stage paint

 

I wasn't going to chime in on this one, but I can't help myself. Having a car look nice is fine, and in my mind doesn't have to cost a fortune. Never rust again? Rust is a living organism that requires 3 things- ferrous metal, oxygen, and moisture. Unless you permanently remove one of those 3, not going to happen.

 

Over restored will decrease values of some collector cars, firearms, furniture….