When searching I've found lots are using tie rod ends and some rubber bushing rod ends, and maybe a few heim joints. Seems like most are using TREs but couldn't find model, year or part numbers. Anyone have any info? What did they use back in the "day"? Thanks
"back in the day" we just used tie rod ends and threaded ends of old tie rods. You could'nt hardly give those away back then.
I usually make my own stuff...but Speedway has the threaded insert and tie rod ends too cheap to pass...so that is the way I went.
The tie rod ends available today are not always of good quality........ Id be a little suspect of the country of origin on some of these- if they are to be used as rod ends on radius rods on your hot rod. Depending on your mount bracket- it is possible that your whole front end is being held on by only a 1/2"diameter section or less of questionable metalurgical quality. Rather than drilled holes with rod ends bolted through that hole [only supported against the beginning of the taper]-I'd suggest welding on a tapered bung to facilitate using the full strength offered in the rod end at the very least.
I made my rod ends up from tubing turned down to fit urethane bushings and used 5/8" L9 bolts welded to them (cheaper than buying the ends). A buddy used hjime joints on his rod and the ride was really stiff, actually broke a rear bracket for the trailing arm. Switched to urethane ends and it smoothed out nice. Flatman
I work at a tractor dealership and was wondering about those 3 point hitch centerlink ends? A tie rod seems cool from a old timely standpoint but I stumbled across one thread about a guy wanting to use them on the back end and it was a big no-no, to me its no different for the front end except the torq from the diff placed on them, but the front end would take a good bit of force to no, with the I-beam twisting and bouncing. I would rather sacrafic looks on something small like that rather than loose a hotrod on the highway, along with people. So whats the best solution?
When I mentioned the tractor heims, another HAMBer said they have too much slop. I dunno if thats true
Check on the Howe Racing Enterprises site, they have a big chart of tie rod ends,with different threads.The list includes the OEM application,and Moog/TRW part numbers.
I can't see that personally, since normally they are too tight to rotate by hand it seems. But speaking of tractors I have a huge parts system at my disposal (ford/new holland) to search for TREs and stuff but there is usually no suggestion as to the size. Maybe I'll start having to notice when I'm working on them, for sizes and stuff. Only reason I was thinking 3pt hitch heims was for $50cad I can get the link with 2 high quality greasable heim joints with threads and nuts.
Chassis Engineering sells a kit that includes the threaded inserts that weld into the radius rods and the proper tierod ends (heavy duty). Makes a bullet proof setup. Frank
I got mine from Marty at nwspeedequipment.com. I cut the ends off of some mustang II spindels for the tapered bung and welded them inside of some plate. Josh
Fry;I used 3/4" dia. tierod ends,made by Moog.Got some weld in bungs of the same size and some jam nuts.I have the same size TRE on both the front and rear radius rods.If'n you want the PN,PM me tomorrow.
I found out years ago, that there was a Chevy Camaro TRE that was threaded 5/8-UNF...Right hand thread...(I forget the number of threads, but it's a standard SAE/UNF thread)) and I could get a tap for it from the tool crib at work, so I used it. What was nice, is that it also used the same Ford large taper as the early Ford cars and trucks and tractors too (basically the same, but with a "weirdo" 11/16 UNF thread...one we didn't have a tap for) ....and I'd cut and turn down "buttons" made from sections of old Ford steering arms...or make them in the lathe, with the same taper. Drill a 7/16" hole in a homemade bracket, weld the button on, and you're in business...
Told half of "da story"--I also made up "bungs" that were then welded into the end of the radius rods...threaded the same way...
Thanks for all the info guys. Sure it will be very useful to me and anyone else whoever does a search on this. 29SX276 could you get me the part number? Thanks edit... Also why would anyone need to use jam nuts? The tie-rod coming out of the wishbone doesn't seem like it'd be an issue, cause your wishbone isn't going to rotate and spin off, either is your TRE, no?
I would think that the less movement there is, the less wear to the smallish threads, the part should move where it was designed to move.
Speedway has 11/16-18 taps. Chassis Research in Ames, Iowa has 3/4-16 tie rod ends. I believe these are for the pickups. The larger size is better for split wishbone ends. Speedway also carries reamers, 1 1/2" and 2" to the foot. They call em ball-joint reamers, but the 1 1/2" reamer should work with Ford tie rod ends - be sure and check before buying, I'm not completely sure if it is in fact the right size. Speedway has weld in threaded bungs for split wishbones. If you can handle a touch of modernization, Polyurethane bushing ends are easy to make from DOM tubing and a bolt. Energy Suspension has the Poly bushings and they're about $10. a pair. Pair meaning enough for two bushing ends. (Four poly pieces and two steel inserts.) The car in the pic has poly bushing ends at all three corners of the radius rods and it looks ok imo.
i used Speedways Bungs welded into the end of the wishbone, and then i used Heim Joints. Not exactly traditional, i know, but they were cheap, Strong, and easy.
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