Technical what engine oil for roots blower motor and other thoughts

What oil do you run with roots style blower? synthetic or conv. ? Does weight of oil make a difference?

 

Not a clue, maybe talk to the manufacturer and get their recommendation?
ie my kids cars use 0-20w, my truck is 10-30. An engine v engine is different, maybe blowers as well?

 

90wt gear oil is pretty common...works for me...lots of miles on mine

 

My neighbor has a centrifugal supercharger on his Jeep and has had me order along with my parts, a case of this certain SC oil in the past. Forget what it's called but Summit carried it.

 

For a converted 6-71 gear case use 90w....

 

Mr. Mooneyham told me to use 90wt. gear oil in the blower he built for me.

 

I have never used anything but 90W, changed annually.

 

Thanks , I was asking about the engine. I should have stated that.
Wondering about effects on crank and rod bearings , rings etc.

 

Jim’s going to tell you… https://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Te...VMgWtBh1-CgzAEAQYASABEgK**vD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

nope, I use 5W30.

 

Yep, and get a spare car battery while you're there

 

On a drag car, we ran atf. I'm sure that would be very light for a street car that could be driven hundreds of miles at a time. 90wt. is designed to absorb heat.

 

Hey guys, read before posting. Jumping in doesn't always work..........

 

Just asking in general. I'm thinking 454 with 8-71. 8lbs boost. most for street use. drags once or twice a year.
mine will be open hood no fenders.
7.0 to 1 static compression. intercooler.
It's a 2500 lb vehicle right now . I don't need a lot of power.
Wandering about synthetic oil . Will it work in engine? Is it to thin to work with the stress of blower?
I've been reading most say to go up to thicker weight and no on synthetic oil.
Any other thoughts for running a roots blower on the street?
3000 miles a year on average. mostly around 2300 rpm.

 

I've put about 30,000 milesand 100 1/4 mile p***es on the blown 427 in my Chevy II. I run 5W30 Walmart oil in it. Usually gets changed about 2000 miles, but has gone quite a bit longer (up to 5k). Last few oil changes were with synthetic, because that's what they're mostly selling now. It goes about 2000 miles or so before burning a quart of oil.

Last summer I pulled the engine partway apart, it needed valve springs, and I wanted to look at the bearings, etc. I ended up replacing the rod bearings, they were showing some wear, but not abnormal for the use it gets.

Maybe you have to worry about this stuff, or maybe if you just build a stock "hi perf" bottom end you can get away with not worrying too much about it, which is what I do. Old Chevy crank, and rods, and stock replacement bearings.

Oh...the quickest p*** so far is 9.89 at 134 mph. And I run about 8 psi, 8.5 compression, 91-93 pump gas when racing, 87 for just driving around

 

Back in the nitro days blown, we used castor oil. It won't burn it if it ****s it through the seals. Anyway I'll crawl back under my rock. lol.

 

There is the secret everyone should learn.
Keep the intervals short, especially if you work your engine hard or it operates in dusty conditions.

 

I have no problem stretching the oil change intervals out to 5k or so on an engine that's in good condition, with little blowby, when using synthetic oil.

 

Would I need o ringed heads? head studs?
I know forged pistons and crank.
What about stainless valves?
I may go to 8 or 8.5 compression. Unsure.
external oil cooler , my thoughts no.
aluminum heads , yes. roller cam, yes.
355 chevy single carb
currently runs 175 degrees even in summer.
Any other thoughts?

 

With less than 10 psi boost, you should be OK with stock gaskets and bolts, at least on a big block. I don't know about small blocks. Stainless valves are what comes in high perf heads. Shouldn't need an external oil cooler. I run a hydraulic roller cam, not real big, so the valve springs last a while. Cooling is more of an issue with a blower motor. With aluminum heads, 9:1 is not unreasonable for pump gas with only 8 psi boost.

 

It will be a couple of years. I will have http://www.morleyperformance.com/ build the engine.
I know Steve is a member here. I saw him at Drag week in St louis.
I know he will steer me right. I'm am just trying to get things sorted out a head of time.

 

Yeah, I can't understand how anyone would figure he was asking about what oil to use in the blower...

 

So what I'm reading says aluminum heads and 2 inch spacer between intake and blower will make it run cooler.
I also read the 8-71 runs cooler than 6-71.
I will be running 91 octane fuel.
With that said I should be able to run 9 to 1 static without a problem as stated by @squirrel . Thanks for the advice.

 

Fixed the ***le.

 

Steve's not in Missouri any more, though....

 

Oil weights and viscosity do not work that way.

Conventional, blended, or full synthetic, when rated the same, the performance is the same.

My blown, roller cam Hemi had conventional oil in it.

10W-40.

 

Yes, I agree, the ***le was misleading............ it still is.
But to be fair, he did clarify in post #8, for those that got that far before suc***bing to the irresistible urge to dive in head first.

I can't help but wonder if some of these threads are deliberately provocative to see if they can stir up an argument.
This one comes close on the heels of another oil based thread that got a few guys ******* in a knot.........

 

"Dave's not here" either

 

You're dating yourself.

 

Naw, I think people type what they understand as they’ve been thinking on it. ***le doesn’t come out for every one else in the same fashion.
That said, there are some **** stirrers that like to see what kind of rise they can get out of people, but for sure this thread wasn’t intended to do that
I did make what I thought to me, was a funny ***le once, then was accused of “it’s click bait”.
Anyways, now that the OP has changed the thread ***le, anyone who just opened it is gonna think “WTH are these guys replying to””