Technical what engine oil for roots blower motor and other thoughts

I got 5 years out of mine once...but more often, every year or two. I'm also cheap, the most expensive converter I ever bought for a 400 cost $300.

 

^^^^ over the year I just have became burnt out , On all the maintenance, I personally have put a block on my self nothing more then 650-700 hp & want to freshen up about every 25 Thousand miles ,
1,800 hp was fun & a rush thoe,

 

This is my inspiration. Something streetable.
I know it's a hemi. Mine will be a bbc.

 

Customers blown car after the sprag rolled and the drum went hyper-sonic

 

I guess that's why I have a shield over my 400. Wow, thanks for the pic.

 

What combination are you looking @ not to have fuel threw the rotors ??

 

Mercy.

 

Metal or a blanket thing? Guess either is best maybe?

 

mine is a 1/4" thick sheet aluminum shield.

 

Blankets create to much Heat,
Heat will kill a transmission fast,
Best to keep transmission temp
165 -180ish

 

This had a blanket around it when it blew--- Tore it to shreads

 

fastcar1953. There is nothing cheap about going blown, street-strip. You better have a good handle on the tune or......Oh no! As far as your original Question. I run 15-40 and lucas, no problems, however the engine gets torn down every 2 seasons depending on how much racing is done. Have never had anything look horrible inside, and I pound on this little coupe.

 

Blankets dont cause the sprag to roll. HorsePower and OEM parts do

 

I Know that !!! Stating that a blanket creates and traps heat... transmission killer,

 

Well....I guess....but you can do it kind of cheap if you try. I have very few hot rod parts in my blown 427, it's mostly GM stuff or stock replacement. Blower intake, cam, blower conversion and drive stuff, that's really about it. Stock block, crank, rods, pistons, heads (although they're the high perf aluminum version), normal rings, bearings, gaskets, etc. I'm contemplating putting an old GM point distributor in it to replace the Mallory dual point, also.

 

Im like Jim , my first blown engine 1987 was 406 sb forged TRW 11:1 pistons , 10psi ,1004 head gaskets ,cast crank stock rods & bolts No aftermarket bolts
Signal key on crank , stock balancer, Vett 427 Tri fuel pump TRW chain ,stock 202 double hump heads , stock rockers push rods , Mallory Unlite , AC 44t , 32 total timing, 6,000 rpms , 750 holleys ,490 /510 hyd RV cam, stock flex plate drilled for vega torque converter, stock u joints , 12 bolt ,355 gear ,L 60 tire ,400 with shift kit no drive shaft loop, blower from 60s completely took a part, Wilma @ BDS taught me over phone how to put / set up time blower , ( I still use)
107 mph in 1/8 69 commode (camaro )
Back then the 3 county's I was in 24/7 could get 100 blue @ small airports .
Engine lasted 1-1/2 yrs before I burnt block after that Engine combos where more $$$, put me in 1,800hp modern Altered lots of hand me down parts just to test for the ride /rush

 

Besides that, they all leak and the blankets soak it all up and the dirt collects, just creates a big mess

 

I know this won't be cheap. I would rather build it once. All new parts .
If I'm spending $10,000 to get the look and feel I would rather spend $20,000 and do it once.
I would rather it held up to 12lbs of boost and only run 8lbs. I really don't want it to be a show only car or worry how long it will last.
I'm not in my youth anymore , I can afford to do it right.
The days of changing parts and using used parts are over for me. I want to drive it not work on it.
I am learning a few things from this. Didn't think about transmission shield . Transmission temp. I still have to figure out alt. mount. It will have to be moved to p***. side or up high somehow.

 

NHRA requires a transmission shield when you run 10s.

fwiw, doing it once, my 427 has 30k miles, I've had it partway apart twice, but it's pretty darn reliable. With mostly stock stuff. both times it was apart, was for minor head work and looking at bearings.

The 454 I had in my truck then my 55 got over 100k miles on it, it got overhauled twice, new rings and bearings and valve job, valve springs, basically normal maintenance.

I'm totally with you on making it so it will hold up to 12 psi but only run 8. And make the bottom end so it will live at 7500 but only rev it to 6500. Watch the cam lift, so you can run reasonably small valve springs, that takes a lot of load off of stuff too.

 

Yeah after the engine there is the transmission and convertor. trans shield, rear end, wheel studs, 10 point cage etc.
I've been looking at the rule book some.
I remember from the past racing isn't cheap. I never spent a lot on racing but I ran a lot of used parts.
2 engines , 2 rear ends and 6 transmissions in a year. all used . I spent more time working on it than racing. 3 am ****** changes ****. Even worse was doing it on dirt floor with jack stands.
I have the shop and tools. Money a little at a time. This will be a 5 year project all done.
If I get it in the 9's I'll be happy.



@squirrel , I get factory parts and will go with some. I'm looking at crate motors vs used block and select all the parts. I even thought about new block. I want new internals anyway.
Whether It cost $10,000 or $14,000 doesn't really matter. I have no experience building engines or transmissions. That will get farmed out.
I do want to p*** inspection and run it down the strip. I want to drive it everywhere.
It's either this or a front engine dragster. This is more me. Dragsters are fun but not very practical.
What I need is advice on compression ratio, torque convertor, and anything else that will help keep it alive and running. Stuff like spark plugs, cam, timing. etc.
I have learned some of it from reading this. Thanks for taking the time to answer. Very help full.
I try to keep up with you and racer x , mad mikey.
I love drag week . Always go to Topeka or St. louis.

 

Here's my start. It will get a complete makeover to make this work. I may even get a steel cab. I will redo rear frame and suspension. Front suspension will stay. I want to knock the street rod off of it and build a race truck. Littlemans truck comes to mind.

 

that'll be exciting!

I think I covered compression ratio already. Timing kind of depends on the heads, if they have the big old fashioned open chamber, they love advance...up to 40 degrees, as long as you're not running a whole lot of boost. Also set up the distributor to have about 20 degrees initial, and the mechanical advance all in by 2000ish rpm or so.

I run normal plugs for the high perf 427, again they have to match the heads, for OEM heads they used long reach gasket types through 69 (and also on later aluminum heads), oem iron heads starting in 70 used short tapered seat plugs. R44XLS works fine for me with the early heads.

you also have to figure out fuel. I run a pair of 9755 Carters, the 1980s-90s type, with pretty much stock jetting. Weird, but they work.

 

I thought this was about engine oil?

 

thread drift....welcome to the HAMB

 

Fuel system will be modern. That's all I have to say about that.
Think 60's bug catcher with fuel lines around the bottom.
There was a white and rust blown 63 nova at drag week that really got me excited.

 

I use 15-40 20-50 & 50wt

 

On the oil, I should step up to 40 weight over 30?

 

Oil is like religion. Good luck getting two people to agree. Like I said before, I run walmart 5W30 and it works fine. But you can do whatever you want.

Wayne's car is pretty wild....a lot more power than I'm making. I guess if you want to spend several grand on a fuel system that will do what a pair of $50 carbs will do, that's up to you.

 

I'm not much on engine building or carbs. I like the new way . No e85 though.
Currently running a sniper setup.
I'm know more about body and paint.

So far I have this for a plan.
454 chevy forged crank and pistons. 8 to 9 comp.
hyd roller cam 114 lsa around 290 duration 520 lift
aluminum heads 119cc full roller rockers
head studs, 2 key crank, sfi balancer
8-71 blower
th400 with 2200 stall for blown engine
9 inch ford 3.00 to 1 gears
29 to 30 inch tall tire
adjustable 4 link with coil overs
fuel is covered.

Is there a thing with to much underdrive on blower? Could I run it 30% under driven ?
Any smaller details? Cooling need anything special? Oil system ? stock o.k. ?
Truck runs 175 degrees at head right now. no hood, aluminum heads, alum radiator.