Looking at a Ford 347 STOKER engine--Aluminum hi flo heads-- push rods Comp Cam- this is what is in it now--Hydraulic cam 497-507--LIFT 233-238 DUR at 050 288 ADV 2500 to 5800 -- C-4 trans with 2800 stall converter-- way to much cam for me--what cam can be used to get it mild and good vacuum
What weight, what compression, what gear ratio, what size rear tire, what intended RPM and use? These are what any cam seller is going to ask when properly trying to select a cam. BTW, all caps is like shouting online.
What weight is the car & how are you going to use it? Building to drag race, Bonneville, or street around town. Heavy car around town you want some torque. And everything RodStRace said above
May look at a crane or comp cam around 260-268 advertised duration. You can go to 114 degrees lobe separation to really tame it down sound wise but keep some bite. The increased lobe separation also helps get the vacuum signal back up. Comp had their Extreme energy series that would be good starter point. The higher the lobe separation the less rowdy it sounds... Hence why the fake cam's like thumpers are at 108 lobe separation. Makes them sound the part with no real bite. If you want to really just let the grunt of the motor pull you along, maybe a high end RV cam or a more basic performer cam.
Call the guys at Bullet Cams and tell them exactly what you have, your application, your rockers, etc.. I would recommend a hydraulic roller - but hey, that is just me. There are too many "keyboard experts" on the internet who may or may not really know the details of what works the best for your application.
So there is no misunderstanding, I have no problem with members using all CAPS when posting a message or people not liking all CAPS and it was mainly just used in the title. I know many think that this is a form of hollering, shouting, or so on. But no where can I find info on the net that supports this as a Law, Or Mandate. Only as "Netiquette Guideline" . All I can find is that Shout, hollering is a VERBAL action, not a writing action. So in short, there are several reasons why a person posts messages in all caps. 1: Could be a visual problem, that cannot be corrected, even using larger print 2: May be a physical problem. Like Arthritis, lost of fingers, or limb. 3: Could be a person is not that great with punctuation. 4: Out in the real world, CAPS are used a lot in the corporate world, and maybe the person is used to typing that way. 5: Most important is that the message is understood. Personally at my age and eyesight challenged all Caps would be easier for me to read! JMO.
https://www.yourdictionary.com/articles/all-caps-yelling partial quote A Brief History of All Caps All caps have actually been associated with loudness for much longer than text or computing have been around. In the Roman alphabet, all capital letters were actually the default until lower-case script came along in the 8th century A.D. Until this point, capital letters were called majuscule and conveyed majesty or grandeur. Since everything was handwritten in those times, a lower-case script called minuscule was created to make it easier to write more. Seb, I was trying to convey nettequite. I ended with the suggestion, I didn't SHOUT IT AS THE LEDE. I hoped that mentioning it was a gentile nudge, not an edict from above. The minute someone tries to "Law, Or Mandate" something online, it will cause pushback. That's the nature of us non-conforming humans. I understand that some people may have challenges with the written word and that almost all of us (including me) could be more inclusive. You and I have been around here long enough to remember the old HAMB. If there is a better way to suggest using common type form and style, please let me know. BTW, if you are using a windows machine, pressing Ctrl and the + keys at the same time will magnify the view of the page.
I’ve ran several different cams in my 347’s but the most street able one I had was a Motorsports E303. If you run nitrous depending on the shot a B303 is a really nice one too.
Way better cams can be had for the same money. The price of off the shelf comp cams is the same as a true custom cam. I'd get a true custom cam made for my combo. Call Bullet or email FTI. If you are running good heads you can run the HO roller cam. It's essentially an RV roller cam. Put some 1.7 or 1.82 roller rockers. Stock lift is 0.444" with 1.6:1 rockers
Here is what it is-- Aluminum Flo heads-SS valves Hydraulic custom cam--LIFT--233-238 DUR-at 050 288 ADV 2500 to 5800 I looked at this engine on his test stand running sounded good but to mush cam for me--need something just to street cruise in my 1955 Ford F-100 with C-4 trans--9 '' rear 3:55 gears--- This is all the info he had on engine-- Thanks
Thanks for all your Help and Advise-- I think it is something I should stay away from called Comp Cam the parts are CRAZY price and work involved to do it---
Also, it is important to note that you need to consider the WHOLE package --> the cam, the lifters, the pushrods, the springs, the rockers. If you don't follow the recommendations of the cam company and have the correct parts to work together as a package, then you're asking for trouble. ALL the parts matter . . .
Those aren't particularly great aluminum heads for SBF's. They're lighter weight, but barely better flow performance than GT40/GT40P iron heads. I wouldn't pay any extra for an engine with those heads. In fact, I wouldn't build/buy a stroker with what's available today. You can build a true 302 that puts 400 hp to the wheels. The aluminum head budget and stroker kit budget would buy the best street heads on the market with money left over. This an off topic site, but just look at the engine in the car. https://www.corral.net/threads/402r...288&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-18769288
If you ask me (and you didn't!)...that doesn't sound like a very radical cam at all.... Be careful when ordering a cam with somewhat increased duration @050 and a longer LSA number (112-114)because low speed around town driving may result in spark knock/rattling. Because as I understand it the longer duration coupled with a wide LSA builds a LOT of compression at lower speeds. Enough that hi-test fuel may not control it. Granted the Al heads dissapate more heat than iron but you will need to really work over your ignition curve especially since you're running an A/T. Maybe the gear you're running plus adjusting shift points in the A/T to hold it in gear longer so as to not lug the engine at low RPM will help control the knock too. It's all a big combination and compromise of parts. 6sally6 I ain't one to argue but....400 HP to the rear wheels may be 'doable' but we're talking near 500 HP to the flywheel. 5.0/302 SBF's have a bad habit of making so much power they destroy themselves/splitting the block right down the valley ! Making that kinda power in a block designed for maybe 250HP...you bes be right-on-the-money with your tune and driving habits..........
My cam has a 112 LSA, I wanted something with decent street manners. With the 3.56 stock rear, it lugged too much around town. My CR is close to 10:1. I went with a 3.89 rear, much better. Lugging an engine is bad on the pistons and bearings.
The cam specs you posted show pretty mild lift - but do show quite a lot of duration at .050. The duration of 233 and 238 is probably way too much for your application (and why the cam sounded pretty nasty). My guess is that it is an older grind - when valve springs weren't that great, so folks threw a ton of duration at it. You could probably run one of the milder Ford hydraulic roller cams - or go custom with somebody like Bullet. Here are the specs for the Ford Racing camshafts - just for reference:
I ran a stroker like yours with a mustang gt cam with 1.7 rockers. It had great bottom end but wasn't enough top end to be exciting. Guys that have run a TFS 1 say you have to spin it to get power. A cam with around 212 to 216 on the intake at 50 would be my choice. This is assuming you stay with a wide lobe center cam. If you decide to go with a 108 or similar, my recommendation would be useless.
If it's a flat tappet cam and your current parts are good, take the existing cam and lifters out and send them out for a cam regrind to spec's you'd rather have, and get the lifters refaced at the same time. Save a bunch of coin compared to buying new, and will still be compatible with all your existing valvetrain. If the existing cam is a hydraulic roller, that's even better, then all you need to do is get the cam reground to spec you like. Lifters you don't need to rework, just re-install as is. Even if cam is brand new you can have it reground to a different spec.
With the stock cars, we needed a cam that flew under tech radar. So it was "cheater" cams with likely a LSA of 114. I found out then that the cam sound does not always = to performance.
Factory Mustang GT H.O. cam has been checked by a bunch of guys and typically run 210-212 intake and exhaust at 50 thou. LSA is wide at about 116. There's a spec but most just hover around it. Much variation. They have "lazy" lobe ramp rates by today's standards. 1.7:1 rockers are a must. A company called scorpion makes a 1.82:1 rocker set for stud mount setups. Either would help. The reason it doesn't "top end" isn't the cam. It's the heads and intake. A good induction package will deliver peak power above 6000 rpm. Do we need more than that for a cruiser? It'll also deliver peak torque around 4000 give or take. Factory Ford heads are garbage. Almost all of them are, except a few select heads that just ok. The best heads arrived at the end of the run. GT40 and GT40P iron heads. The P heads need careful header/manifold selection due to a unique plug angle (for SBF heads anyway) but otherwise are the best production heads. A good intake on either of the GT40/P heads will max out around 5500 on the stock cam. Intake is the first restriction, then the heads, then the cam. Everyone wants to swap the cam on Ford's, but it's the induction package that needs attention first. All factory intakes choke out by about 5000 rpm. An atermarket intake and aluminum heads cure the induction issue.
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