Technical What is the best choice in spark plugs

Whatever I can get my hands on when I need to.
I must say though, in reading posts of consumers here and there,,,
Thinking about asking for NGK

 

I used to work in tuneup shops. I have changed a LOT of plugs. I quit doing that in the late 90s, so this info is outdated.
This was in an era where the vast majority of cars had decent ignition systems from new, but also had various emissions systems that were, uh, rudimentary when new and degraded when older to put it in polite terms.
The absolute worst plugs were the Tuneup Masters brand eastern European sourced plugs. I'd say it was 2-5% failure rate right out of the box, proven using 'scopes. Hated those things. Don't know if it was QC or the shipping or both, but would always grab 1 extra out of the back. You can imagine the shelves after a month doing this...
Next, Champions of that era would have QC issues. Never saw another brand break the porcelain around the center electrode like they did. You could hold them up tip up and check gap, then hold them up tip down and see the gap get covered by the porcelain. Had this happen straight out of the box and a few out of cars. They also seemed to be the most brittle and would break/shatter the easiest.
Bosch were good, dependable stuff. I'd include other major brands in here too.
NGKs seemed to be good and dependable, but had that little extra. Smoother idle, more consistent 'scope pattern, never a QC issue. Nicely packaged.

I'll mention that some OEs didn't make it easy. I'm talking about the deep narrow plug wells of mainly Euro cars and the stupid things Ford did like the modular 4 thread shouldered design or the 8 plug Ranger 4 cylinder.
https://tiremeetsroad.com/2022/01/2...king-early-modular-triton-3-valve-v8-engines/

"didn't anticipate carbon and rust."

 

I guess this is a case of ignorance is bliss. I've used Champions for decades, and still do so. Never had any issues.

 

@1971BB427, I've helped with race teams that swore by Champions. They had no issues (except one plug I found that did the tip break), but they also swapped out plugs a lot more, used race heat ranges and they weren't as difficult to get at (gotta love the hemi for that!) This may be part of the reason you haven't dealt with those issues.

 

I thought they switched to tapered seat (R45T) in 1970?

NOS AC plugs if I can find them...the new ones from China seem to work ok, but....I'd still rather just use the plugs that were in the engine when I got it, they usually work just fine. Sometimes need to scrape the carbon off, and check the gap.

 

I like Autolite and NGK. My '50 has NGK and my 63 390 6V uses Autolite. Both run very well.
I've had way to many problems with Champion to ever use them again.
Newer A/C Delco I've had minor problems.
All the fancy plugs that make huge claims for better power and mileage I stay away from. I've never had anyone using them say they did what they claimed.

 

Being a Ford guy, I was a dyed-in-wool Autolite user for years. The younger guys here probably don't remember just how dominant Autolite plugs were. Look at race photos from the late '50s/'60s, nearly every car had an Autolite plugs sticker on it (particularly in NASCAR). Even that famous GM guy Smokey Yunick recommended them over Champions or ACs. They came to dominate the aftermarket sales also, so much so that Champion and AC sniveled to the Feds about it. Ford bought Autolite in '61, building them into a powerhouse. The Feds stepped in and forced Ford to sell off the spark plug division in the early '70s because of anti-trust issues (including the name 'Autolite' which is why Ford switched to the 'Motorcraft' name) to Bendix. Bendix was acquired by Allied Industries in '83, the same company which made Fram products.

Ford continued to use Autolite plugs for new car production, buying them from Bendix and then Fram. Until they started getting new cars back at the dealers with missing issues. Fram had cheapened the plugs and quality took a nose-dive. Chances were good that in a set of eight, at least one would be bad (I know that was my experience). Ford decided to go back into the plug business, initially just for their use but after a bit they re-entered the aftermarket. Word got out, they started to gain market share at the expense of Champion, AC and now Autolite. They again whined to the Feds, who told Ford to knock it off. Motorcraft plugs then all-but-disappeared from parts houses, if you wanted a set you had to go to the Ford dealer and pay retail list.

Meanwhile, Fram realized that they had screwed up big-time and raised their build quality. At one point they offered 'lifetime warranty' to lure buyers back. Autolites are a decent plug these days, although I'm not so sure they're as good as they used to be (remember, this is the same company that makes Fram filters). Motorcraft plugs are again available in most parts houses, but their product range isn't as wide/deep as it was at their peak to keep the anti-trust guys away.

So I like Motorcraft if I can get 'em, otherwise I'll go with NGK as those have been dead-nuts reliable in my motorcycles.

 

I'd have to think that the major US players have had spells where quality was a bit suspect due to decisions within the different companies and usually caused by a bean counter who decided that they could make more profit if they bought certain materials from a different supplier than the one who had been reliable at selling them high quality materials.
In the 80's I became pretty good friends with a Champion rep who would stop at the school I taught at and put on clinics for the kids once or twice a year. One of the local parts house owners who was one of my advisors put him in touch with me. He even offered to put me in for a job with Champion when my class hours got cut but I decided that my primarily HAMB friendly tune up and trouble shooting skills weren't going to fly in a world of FI and electronic and distributorless ignition. I'm still pretty much that way, if it doesn't have a fully mechanical carb on it and either points or HEI I'm not going to be that much help sorting it out.

I'd agree though that buying the high zoot fancy and spendy plugs is a waste of money on points and carbs engines. Leave those for the car that you don't mention on the Hamb but has made a lot of parts runs for the project car in the shop without a wimper as long as you remember to service it at prescribed intervals. It takes longer to get to the plugs on my OT daily than change the plugs after you get there and I think the N something or others in it have about 50K on them now. The 292 in my 48 will probably get AC plugs and the flathead will get what ever folks are saying is the plug to put in an 8BA with aluminum heads at the time.

 

Steve you and I met at/in my garage when you brought me up something once. I only mention this because I want everyone here to know we do know each ever so slightly.This because of what I'm about to write and my apologies' to those Hambers that find this offensive:.....Steve........@ 85, would you not mention the term, "dead nuts" at least in writing

 

WTF?

 

?
JD Miller said: ↑
What is AC delco R45 cross ref to NGK ?

(1970 sm blk chevy 441 or 186 cast# head)

 

Autolite AF-32 which I have to buy NOS or AF 3924 for the blue car. I get a good deal on them is one of the reasons I use them.

 

U. BUCK, Ben S. still round? Friday The 19th will come and leave and Ill be 85.

 

I run NGK they seem to stay cleaner for me, the double hump engine does have AC Delco's

Here's a cross reference for ac 45's

https://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/AC_DELCO/R45

 

Hello,

The spark plug group has its own followers. We started with what was available at the lowest cost at our local auto parts store. Champion was their choice, so we followed suit. When gapped correctly, they ran well in all of our motors. Oldsmobile v8, 4 cylinder Ford, 283 SBC motor, all of the Chevy motors, 265, 283 and 301 motors in our friend’s cars at the time.

So, we ran them in our Stromberg powered 283. But, when we went larger to 292 SBC, it was suggested to us by Joe Reath that we go to the more expensive pink Lodge plugs.

The first thing we noticed was the cost. They were more expensive than the AC or Champion spark plugs. But, it was the cost of speed that was the result and every inch or power was worth it.

In our quest to get a more powerful spark for out 671 supercharged 292 c.i. SBC motor, we used Lodge “pink” non resistor plugs for the best results. Currently, there are a ton of spark plug that are non resistor types. There is even a cap that provides a non resistor style connection.

At first, we used the normal Champion Spark Plugs for our 283 SBC street/drags motor. Then when we went to a 292 c.i. size with all blower spec parts, we used Pink Lodge Plugs. Although we did not have a radio in the Willys Coupe, we were told that the non resistor plugs gave out more spark energy. (Joe Mailliard word of wisdom) So, we bought two sets.

One for the preliminary fire up to check everything prior to lining up for a run down the dragstrip. During the wait time, we installed the same (second set) Lodge Plugs for the actual run. We pushed the Willys Coupe into the class lanes and started only when the front gate was opened and we headed up to the starting line.

The results were pretty good for a first time build. But, the valuable information from Joe Reath and Joe Mailliard, gave us a base with which to work our build and performance information. The Lodge plugs were a little more in cost, but well worth it.

Jnaki

At the drags, we always had two sets. One, for fire up, tuning runs and the other set for eliminations. We eventually had old coffee cans with cotton t shirts cut up to act as padding to store the older plugs. Some only had three runs and those we gave away to our friends who were in need of plugs on their SBC motors.

Note:

In the 20 something years, we used a single Lodge Plug for our Greeves 250cc engine. They were always the stock plugs for a British Motorcycle. So, when we raced, it was very dusty and sooner or later, our good filter tried its best to keep things out, but the plug got fouled somehow. So, we spent 15-30 minutes to change the single Lodge Plug from our mini tool kit we carried.

Later on in our desert motorcycle racing time period, we still used a different Lodge Spark Plug for our custom dual spark plug head. Why dual spark plugs? The switch on the handlebars allowed me to switch from one Pink Lodge Plug to the other. Out in most of the desert races, despite the best air filtration unit, some dust or something always jammed up the main Lodge Spark Plug. So, a quick switch of the faltering motor gave instant life back into the motor using the new (second) spark plug.

These days, it does not make difference as to the brand, since everyone has their own choices and favorites. The stock plugs from factory built motors running exceptionally well is all worth it. Long lasting, instant spark and continued smiles as we go on short or long road trips in our daily drivers. YRMV

 

I don't even understand how E3 has stayed in business this long. I have seen them used twice. Once in the early 2000s, a customer had me install a set on a Ford 302. Car initially ran OK, but on his drive home it started stumbling and missing. A fresh set of standard plugs put everything was back to normal, and the E3 plugs got returned. 20 years later, a friend came to me that his 350 was running very poorly after a tune up. Stumbling, missing, no high rpm power, dieing randomly. We went round and round about what it could be. Finally he mentioned that the sparkplugs he installed were E3s. But it couldn't be those because the Internet said they are the best, and they are brand new.
Out they came, replaced by standard plugs. All problems went away and the van went back to smooth running, idling, and power it had before. The plugs were also returned.
So these have the same quality issues that they have had for 20 years. Who keeps them in business? How may sets do you have to try to get a not-defective set to even know if the magic tip shape works?

I like NGK, Autolite (USA or Mex made) and Motorcraft. Denso is fine of Jap cars but doesnt often seem to have much coverage for old US vehicles.
One of the things best about NGK is their part number system is fairly easy to work with. This makes it easy to find alternative plugs. For instance, I found that my Plymouth flathead stock plugs were designed to be flush with the chamber, but there was room for the electrode to project a bit into the chamber. Using the NGK part number system, I found several options that would work. From there I cross-referenced until I found one That was available and affordable.
The new plugs project .050 deeper into the chamber, giving better throttle response, smoother power at rpm, and a slightly higher top speed.

 

One thing easy to miss when you swap between different brands is that the temperature ranges don't match up exactly. You may find cross reference lists saying that, for example, your NGK with heat range 6 is equal to a Bosch heat range 7, and you can trust that it will be relatively close to true, but probably not exact. If the new brand is slightly colder in the so called equivalent range and your engine was borderline too cold you may find that the replacement from the other brand absolutely is too cold, and it will not get hot enough to self clean in normal operation. The end result is that it will fail sooner or later.

I've killed new plugs in just a couple of hundred meters when trying to find the right heat range in a tuned engine with unknown requirements.
If the E3 plugs happen to be a bit too cold that may explain the poor results you have had. On the other hand, they may really be trash. With the track record you've seen together with the fact that I don't expect such plugs to have anything special to offer it's probably not worth buying more to find out if they can work.

 

I absolutely agree. I was an AC Delco guy for many years. A few years an ago I ran into problems with two different sets of AC Delco plugs. In both cases they were causing a very intermittent misfire problem. I switched to NGK and no problems since then.

 

Autolites in myvFords!

 

I've still got NOS Champion plugs on the shelf here waiting for the day one of my cars finally needs them! Seems the Champions in my car still wont quit?
These are marked $7.95 a set on the sticker!

 

I used to be a dyed in the wool Champion guy. Then I ran a chassis dyno at a Ford dealer for several years. We did diagnostic reports for lots of Auto Clio members. I kept quite busy. I changed my preference to Autolite/Motorcraft after seeing ancient Autolite or Motorcraft plugs survive haRd dyno pulls time and time again. I found Champion plugs to be good but short lived. I could take a brand new set of AC plugs and have one or two shoot ducks on the very first dyno pull. Others would vary in between Autolite and AC. I use use Autolite plugs in everything I own, daily drivers, hot rods, and race cars without any failures. I started running a chassis dyno in my 30's and am now happily retired at 76, but my spark plug choice hasn't changed. I have them in my hemi powered roadster, my 68 El Camino (been in the family since new), my wife's 4.6 Grand Marquis, and two flatheads I have.

 

No comment!....

 

Turned 64 today....

 

Happy Birthday !!

 

Thanks bud!.....

 

Just sold my Chevy Silverado, that I bought new, 160.000+ miles on the original AC Delco plugs...never missed a beat.

 

I have been buying NGK for the past 45-50 years! 60 Special