where can i buy the best etching primer , are the ones eastwood selling any good , i need to rust clean the floor of two cars i have waiting for restoration , and etch prime them and put a epoxy primer over it then let them wait in my barn for a full restoration next year , so what is the best stuff out there ,
The best etching primer is one mans opinion,,being your in Iceland you probably don't have a NAPA store,,but I have had good results with their product. I would imagine any known brand will work fine. HRP
Hands down DuPont VariPrime is the best out there. It will bite into anything bare metal. Next in line is DuPont 2590 series DTM(direct to metal) It`s great for hotrod black use. Very durable. Third is PPG DP series primers
Just a word of warning. Some epoxy primers won't go over etching primer without adhesion issues. Check with the epoxy primer's manufacturer before doing this.
I have used ppg shop line etch primer for years. My 40 chevy has been on the back burner for 5 years and it was put over bare metal after using there metal prep and conditioner and has sat with out any primer and no rust has started .I live in Fla were bare metal rust over night.
is there anything cheap that can be rolled or brushed on and will dry in a day or so , and I can sand down the runs etc. I need to sand down a car , I just want to do one panel a day by hand and an electric sander , primer it so that when I am done its all one color . its a patchwork quilt now ! I will probably never paint it real nice
I wouldn't use epoxy primer either. Since urethane primers came out i'll never go back. Sprays smooth without huge orange peel, drys nicer, sands great. I don't like loading a lot of material on a car. It will bite you in the ass down the road.
I would use nothing but veri-prime. My convertible has every part sprayed with it, snd the 42 Chevy I am building now for my daughter it getting s dose of it too. Thisprimer will brab onto the metal and hold
2k epoxy rolls really well but you need to add a little extra thinner than normal. I didn't have spray facilities available on my Willys build so I rolled the 2k epoxy on and then rolled on the 2k hibuild grey primer, I intended to sand back and paint later but I liked the finish so much I left it, lots of people think its sprayed.
Can you get Sikkens over there? I sprayed it for years as a painter, their washprimer is good stuff. Either way I'd stick with the same product line throughout, less chances of issues that way. Last week the local paint jobber told me the US feds banned zinc in paint products, as a result the quality and effectiveness of all metal etch primers suffered. You may be able to still get the good stuff over there. Let us know.
If you can get PPG product, all listed below will work. Use etch than urethane primer on top. DPX 171/172 SXA1031 (spray can) DPX 1071/1072
Yes but I find the Lechlar Epoxy far better, I use it on everything I do even engines, never known it come off anything. These days the epoxy is just a far better product that the old etch I find, an extra bonus is you can put filler on top of it.
so the right way to go would be , sandblast etch prime and put a poliurethan primer over it . i would want to put i think you call it lizzard skin , something that is a protection against rocks scratshing throug the paint on the undercarriage . there is a dupont dealer here in iceland , just good to have you all to ask about these things
The best way would be to media blast and then epoxy prime it, normal primer & etch primer is porous, epoxy isn't, been doing that way for 25 years and never had a problem.
This /\. There's no need to etch prime normal steel and as mentioned, etch and regular primer is porous so you run the risk of rust while the panels are stored. I used Claussen "All U Need". Don't know if you can get it in Iceland but it's a 2 part polyester direct to metal high build self etching waterproof primer. I know it sounds like a mouthful but it seems to work well. You need a big fluid tip to hose the stuff on there but it saves a lot of steps. I would use either epoxy and the do your bodywork-high build-block routine or All U Need
I need to bring this back from the dead as this topic is one of the most important in restoration. We have been restoring motorcycles and cars since late 70s so I have seen some processes. Let me add to the discussion above. 1. Degreasing then Blasting (correct media) then Degreasing then Epoxy over bare 7.0 PH metal is the most optimal process. People still follow the FORD model known as Conversion Coating. That is kind of insane now. 2. DuPont VariPrime known as Cromax 615S was an amazing etching primer. It is being replaced with 22880S Axalta. They removed Toluene and added 50% Acetone. It is now junk but you can spray it in California. 3. DuPont VariPrime had Zinc Chromate as the element for corrosion resistance. Someone above was asking why apply epoxy over etch primer. They were doing that to seal it. Many epoxies will fail over etch primer because of either acids, or Zinc Chromate or Zinc Phosphate or Nickel Phosphate. Some epoxies will react with that. DuPont had epoxies that could be sprayed over Conversion Coatings, or Etch Primers, but if you mix and match between epoxies and etch primers you may fail. Some epoxies say right on them that you can not spray on any chemical coatings, but only bare metal, which is the correct way. As far as IS THERE A NEED FOR ETCH PRIME NORMAL STEEL, the answer is YES there is a need unfortunately. Different needs, but I will not expand on that here as it's a huge topic. In general all my cars are epoxied, except for the panels. That can not really be epoxied if you're looking for perfection. All chassis components, aluminium, suspension, etc should simply be epoxied. As far as painting epoxies, you should master them to perfection to make the paint look like glass. They are tricky to paint to perfection but can be done. That means 0 orange peal. The best epoxy every that I have found is the DTA epoxy from TAMCO. That's the one that Boeing uses. Once you master it, you will win car shows with it. It is stunning. You do need to master the Etch Primer as well. Always look for thin films on epoxies and primers and dont' bother with "magic" products. Etch Primer must be sealed, because he will take up moisture over time. Sealing means either epoxy (which rarely makes sense), or clear coat.
One wet coat of epoxy primer is all you need for the interior two if you’re having trouble with coverage. Forget etch primer…
I never ever use etch on steel. Only ever use non ferrous metals and stainless steel, which is what it's designed for.
^ Not true. Etch Primer was designed for Steel as well. I can post DuPont document, but here is the list their Etch Primers and Conversion Coatings were designed for: Aluminum Brass Bronze Chrome Copper Galvanized Iron Magnesium Nickel Stainless Steel Steel Tin Zinc
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