sorry if this is a newbie question, but what kind of tool is this guy using to remove head studs. I always wondered how do you remove head studs since there is no bolt head to grab onto.
It's a sutd remover. It has a cam that wedges against the shank of the stud to grip it when the breaker bar is turned.
Craftsman, snap on etc... Make em.... Bout 35.00 for the one I bought... They come in a few dif sizes....EVILT
I knew I should have taken the time this morning to photograph the stud removal on my flathead! The tool on the end of that 1/2 braker bar is a cam type stud remover. I have a PROTO #4515 that works well, and it has been in my tool box for over 30 years. I'll post some photos later.
You can also get dedicated size cam action ones that look like deep sockets. I got a cheap set at HF [ yea I know ] but they actually work pretty well, and only 15 bucks. How much stud do you have sticking up? Most stud pullers need about an inch or more to grab onto. Doc
bought my craftsman at a swap meet for about $7....keep your eyes open and you may find one....i see them at just about every swap....
While we're on the subject.......... a lot of the old die hard flathead fans keep the studs and use them again. The theory is, once the stud is seated, it torques down the heads better. Whereas a bolt keeps turning and stretching.
yeah but the top theads for about half of my original studs look beat up and mauled. plus, since 3 of them broke, they seem kinda soft to me. but i guess i would have no problem using them again as long as i use Anti-Seize... man, don't you wish we had a time machine and told ford factory to use anti sieze for the head studs? these things are unbelievably tight in there.
If the studs are not going to be saved, weld a nut on them and use an impact wrench to remove them. This is much, much easier on the stud or bolt than using a breakover bar or ratchet. You will be far less likely to break one with the centered force of an impact wrench.
if your installing aluminum heads use 8ba bolts not studs if you ever plan on getting the heads back off in 1 piece
i have read that studs are stronger than bolts, so this is a fact according to machinists, they explained the pressure difference, probably because the stud is threaded on both ends, but with a stop in the middle, equal pressure from both ends?
That's a Binford knuckle wrecker. You'll find out how it got it's name when you're pulling the beaker bar as hard as you possibly can and the stud breaks sending your hand smashing into the other studs. Fuck yeah it hurt!
Studs are more purely in tension than a bolt. They aren't necessarily "stronger", but the nuts torque down more accurately than bolts because there is no torsion applied to the stud, just tension. Which means you can go to a higher clamping force with the same size fastener.
Get the stud removal tool, I got mine for $20 at Checkers and it has worked great on dozens of the studs, some I didn't think would ever come out. PB Blaster, 4# hammer, candle wax, propane torch, more PB Blaster, etc....The cam on the stud removal tool is flat on the deck with the stud which gives you much better leverage than the other methods and reduces the chance that you will break a stud off and then the misery begins. Patience and persistence will pay off. 31acoupe
where or what the hell is Checkers? In florida, I can't even find KROIL, and now I tried to look up Checkers since you mentioned them, it's a tool place? i did buy the 30 dollar craftsmen stud remover, which i've read is one of the best. When i gave it a quick shot when i got home, the damn tool just slipped around the stud even though i could feel how much grabbing force it was doing. guess i'll have to apply torch and pb blaster some more... plus, the studs are so greasy and oily maybe that's why it slipped? I'm so pissed at how unbelievably tight the studs are in there. I was even reading from another tool site that sells stud removers and it actually said "you'll need this tool if you ever try to remove studs on a flathead" so is the flathead the worst engine to try to remove studs from? are they the only factory that did not use anti-seize lubricant?
actually, for the studs that are long enough, I'm going to try the two nuts on the threads trick and turn itself out. However, since the threads don't go all the way down to the deck, (there is that middle space that is not threaded), i will have to find a thin pipe that will fit between the deck of the stud flush with the block and just below where the top threads end. then I will try to find low profile nuts so i can get two on the top, then accordingly tighten them and force the stud out of the block. anyone try this?
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