Valvoline VR-1 10w30 part #205. "Has ashless anti-wear additives and zddp additives" That is taken right off a new bottle. I work at a large auto parts chain in my area. This is what I will be using when I put my motor together next week. Thanks for all the real information johnnykck.
Always,, Valvoline! Either racing or high mileage. BTW, if there is no cat, I'll put in a few ozs. of pure castor oil. Good for top end, and smells cool.
According to the Valvoline Technician who I called, the VR-1 contains 1300ppm zinc -- well more than the supposed 1000ppm minimum that many say is necessary to protect flat-tappet camshafts.
Just out of curiosity(being a Ford guy) I would like to know the zddp ratings of Motorcraft Diesel oil,it does not show up on their website info,any clues? since Fram tends to make garbage these days I only use Motorcraft filters and they seem to be rated well.
FL1A all the way!!! my truck seems to like Valvoline VR1 racing oil, th3 20w50. same price as conventional at autozone!!!
ok fellas.. I changed from the 15 40 rotella oil..to the 20 50 vr1 all seemed good on the short run I did... but noticed that the engine seemed to be running hotter.. the engine used to hover around 190 even sitting still... now it went up to 200 and kept going up. I had to kill it. Something isnt right? oil pressure was great... same as with the rotella. what gives? I have read allll over the internet.. no one reports the same issue. Would too much oil be an issue? I dont have a proper dipstick.. just an aftermarket one.. it reads just at and under the full line. 4.5 qts in a 302 truck oil pan
The CJ spec has vastly reduced ZDDP compared to the CI spec. yep. I use LE (Lubrication Engineers) a lot. It has high paraffin content and I have never experienced the sludge you speak of. Hmmm.... Not according the the spec it doesn't. The consensus seems to be around 1200 ppm is needed. The CJ spec calls for less than that. this would be contrary to the spec. The late 2008 version of the CJ spec said that zinc was not to exceed 1100ppm.
Nothing but Brad-Penn in the racer. Used to use Royal Purple synthetic but I noticed pitting on the cam followers. No such problems with the Brad-Penn after 2 years hand 90 fuel p***es, (and it's half the price of the RP). Rotella for the street
Reading all the oil and zddp threads, Im just wondering if anyones used-looked into avation oil? Those small birds still run leaded gas.
It's funny you should mention that. I switched to 20W-50 VR1 a couple weeks ago, and the day before yesterday, I was filling it up with gas and noticed a trail of coolant behind the car. I checked and sure enough it had puked a small amount of coolant out, which is something it normally doesn't do. When I got back in and turned the key on, it was a touch hotter than I'd like, but since it's a stock '67 Ford gauge, there's not an actual temp readin on it, just the "C" and "H" markings. I'm certainly keeping an eye on it from now on.
your engines trying to hydrolic heavy oil tends to back up , every engine will react different based on milage or loose clearances . picture water hammer when it hits and stalls it blows the street apart same is going on in your engine .to much friction will ad a few degrees to the engine .my race cars turn 7500 revs for 5 to 8 mins at a time with no lifting using straight 30w again close clearances. heavy oil would remove 15 to 20 hp and kill my berrings in one night . my point is get back to basics.c
Rotella T in a flat tappet engine has worked very well for me. There are other oils but dollar for dollar use rotella T
I picked up an 06 Charger SRT8 (Sold my 59 Chrysler 300 e) yeah I know but the SRT8 is a very fun and fast car. This car comes with an oil temperature monitor and when I drove it off the dealer lot I took it for a run up the 605 to the 405 and back. Cruising at 80 mph my oil temp was 244 degrees F which to me was rather high. I installed a setraub oil cooler and that dropped the temp down to 231-235 about 10 degrees cooler. When I switched to Torco SR1 10-40 with the CMW Entech additive my oil temp dropped to 191 degrees and my water temp which was running around 220 dropped to 195. Needless to say I am a Torco/CMW fan.
Update: I called my engine builder shortly after my last post and he uses valvoline 40vr1 in all his rebuilds now ... used to use rotella 15 40... he told me that with the way he builds them 20 50 would be to thick... and he was glad I didnt drive far on it. I put the 40vr1 in and it runs like a top.. temp is normal. he claimed that the straight 40 was a great oil... and was packed with the good stuff. or enough anyway.
I'm running AeroShell 15-40 synthetic in a small turbo 4 banger. Plenty of zinc I'm sure, but probably short on detergents. You'd want to put an hour meter on your motor to know when to change, lol.
Here my .02 I use Valvoline 20-50 Racing Oil with Lucas Oil Stabilizer. It works well for me. Yes I have experianced first hand the New oils faults compared to the old oil. But I believe this is the best combination of all that is out there. That is not to say my combination is better than anyone elses it is just what works for me Fuzzy
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