what should i do???

i just pulled my tired engine, a 292 y-block from my 54 on turkey day. and found a rebuild tag that said the pistons were bored 40 over allready. do you think i should just trash the engine or resleeve or what. need some feedback from the pro's. thanks much

 

I don't remember the post here on the HAMB, but I remember reading that even 292 Y-blocks could be bored over bored a ton. I picked up a Y-block in a trade and have a reference article that calls for a 60 over. I thought I read that the block might even go 90 over but its hard finding pistons.

Do a search, there are some knowledgable Y-block builders that have posted a bunch of information here.

s.

 

The 292 blocks can be bored over quite a bit. They are essentially just a 312 block with a smaller bore. I think it is safe to go .080 over with no problem. Hopefully some y-block gurus will see this. I've got one waiting in the garage. If you haven't yet, check out y-blocks forever, tons of info.
http://www.y-blocksforever.com/

 

so there would be no need for new heads if i would bore 60 or even 80 over??

 

Heads will be fine , It will just increase compression some, unless the heads or the block need to be milled , If thats the case you can go with a thicker head gasket . not sure whats available for old Ford stuff

 

Measure the cylinder taper... you may only need new rings and a hone job.

 

Personally, if it needed reboring, I'd probably resleeve it back to stock size.

 

292 Y Blocks are originally 3.75" bore with a 3.30" stroke. They can very safely go .060" over with no problems.
For reference the 312 was a 3.80" bore with 3.44" stroke

 

Take the block to a Machine shop & have it SONIC checked.

They can tell Exactly how far you can take it with out Breaking thru a possible corrosion point.

I had my 330 DeSoto sonic tested & it was good for me to bore it .090 for the Pop Up JAHNS pistons i had.

You wanna steer clear of sleeve's if at all possible, And with the Abundance of 292 blocks in the world there would be no need to pay the price & sleeve all 8 holes.

As stated here, 292's have a pretty thick Cylinder Wall to start with.

I once had a 283 Chevy that was .125 over, .060 over on a 292 Ford is fine as long as corrosion from the water jacket has not gone to deep.

GET A SONIC TEST & YOU WILL BE FINE.

 

You can still pick up another 292 for considerably less than the cost of boring and installing eight sleeves.

 

Ya, But, Another 60 year old motor will need to be bored to make a good motor. .060 over is not a problem unless it has a lot of internal corrosion. Like mentioned before, take it to a Machine shop and have it tested. First I'd have them check the Cyl's for ware. Maybe your good enough to just ring it and go. You won't know until it's checked over, it's not something most can do at home. What about the Crank? Is it under size? Is it still round? You need a good machinest my Friend, short of that your just guessing.
The Wizzard

 

cancel everythin i just id'd the block its actually a 239ebu, i was goin off what my brother in law told me it was. i cant seem to find many parts for this engine. are the 292 parts adaptable for this engine????

 

I'm no expert but I think some stuff is interchangeable but the 239 cams have different bearings than the 272/292/312. Had somebody tell me once the only thing 239s were good for was rebuilding a '54 to stock...IMO you'd probably be best going with a later and relatively easy to find 292. Likely would spend the same or less $$$ to rebuild than a 239, parts are much easier to find, it should drop right in and you'll get some more kick out of it.

 

If I remember correctly there are a large number of parts that don't interchange. Try this site http://ford-y-block.com/ plus post here and on fordbarn.com that you are looking for a y-block forum. Maybe a T-bird forum or early truck forum. It might be cheaper to buy a later running y-block, they are always pulling them out of the early trucks.

Charlie Stephens

 

In that case, I'd definitely look for a 292 and start with that. There were two 239s--one that shares camshafts with the later engines, and one that shares almost nothing. As has been said, 239 rebuild parts tend to cost more than those for the later 272 and 292, and unless you're going for a stock '54 restoration, not worth the trouble.

 

I'll agree here.... Pull the distributor, on the bottom of the shaft where it drives the oil pump, it will look like a flat blade screwdriver. The later Y-blocks have a hex headed oil pump shaft. If you are dead set on keeping it a 239, I have one with a couple of hours on it...