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Technical WHAT THE HELL?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by els, Apr 26, 2017.

  1. els
    Joined: Sep 11, 2016
    Posts: 359

    els
    Member

    clutch 2.jpg clutch 3.jpg clutch 4.jpg corvette clutch.jpg clutch 2.jpg clutch 3.jpg clutch 4.jpg corvette clutch.jpg I have this clutch in my 1962 corvette. I was told it was suppose to be a rear quick and hard grabbing clutch. It is the hardest clutch I have ever pushed on. The pedal is so hard, that it feels like I am pushing the thrust bearing through the block. Yes it disengages and hooks up, BUT why so hard to push. I have never heard of a clutch being this hard to push. what the hell.
     
    butchcoat1969 likes this.
  2. panheadguy
    Joined: Jan 8, 2005
    Posts: 1,091

    panheadguy
    Member
    from S.E. WI

    It may be your t/o bearing is pushing too far away from the tips of the fingers. Less leverage.
     
    C. John Stutzer and jeffd1988 like this.
  3. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 10,519

    BJR
    Member

    From the marks on the fingers, Panheadguy may be correct. Looks like the diameter of the TO bearing is too big and pushing in the middle of the pressure plate fingers, instead of toward the outer ends. If a smaller diameter TO bearing was used it would drastically change the leverage on the PP fingers and reduce the pedal pressure.
     
    loudbang, Max Gearhead and scrapiron like this.
  4. 4wd1936
    Joined: Mar 16, 2009
    Posts: 1,307

    4wd1936
    Member
    from NY

    Both guys are right, you might have a t.bearing for a B&B clutch rather than the diaphragm unit you have now.
     
    CayoRV and loudbang like this.
  5. jeffd1988
    Joined: Apr 12, 2016
    Posts: 537

    jeffd1988

    loudbang likes this.
  6. bundoc bob
    Joined: Dec 31, 2015
    Posts: 130

    bundoc bob

    And make sure the TO bearing has a radiused face, not a flat face.
     
  7. butchcoat1969
    Joined: Apr 1, 2017
    Posts: 165

    butchcoat1969

    It's in ur return spring, just change it out to a lighter one just make sure it doesn't stick to the floor lol just ask me how I kno? Lolol plus u may half to change the TO bearing it looks to be a little to big butt I would start at the spring it's cheaper and easier but if that don't do it then move to the to bearing or do the bearing since u own a vette u can probably afford it lol j/k lol


    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app HotRod Harry
     
  8. Just my 2c, but is this a racecar? Looks like a heavy duty clutch that would be best suited for the race track. And a multi disc unit that would require more pedal pressure.
     
    gas pumper likes this.
  9. BradinNC
    Joined: Mar 18, 2014
    Posts: 213

    BradinNC
    Member

    Agree with previous comments. Also look at your clutch pedal ratio. Maybe start doing some squats.
     
    XxMikexX and 57JoeFoMoPar like this.
  10. I'm with you guys,the whole thing looks like it's made for a race car. HRP
     
  11. Multi disc race clutch and probably better suited for hydraulic throw out bearing. I got to say to must have a lot of motor in that plastic wonder car.
     
    Dogtown76, ace5043 and 54vicky like this.
  12. After looking at your profile I see it is a race car.HRP


    PROFILE ~ 1962 corvette. Comp eliminator/ MODIFIED PRODUCTION
     
  13. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    Is trans perhaps the sort of Ford 4 speed toploader used on big blocks, with the big input shaft? That would account for big throwout...which needs a pressure plate with different fingers.
     
  14. 57JoeFoMoPar
    Joined: Sep 14, 2004
    Posts: 6,349

    57JoeFoMoPar
    Member

    Gonna get one big left quad
     
    BradinNC likes this.
  15. A multi-disc clutch actually can get by with *less* pressure. Because the friction surface is so much greater area with the multiple discs. On regular single clutch, and high power, the way to get more power transferred without slip is to use a high force pressure plate. But a multi-disc clutch does not require that.

    Agree that it seems your throwout bearing is pressing on the diaphragm fingers too far out from the center. That makes the pedal force higher than it has to be.
     
  16. seb fontana
    Joined: Sep 1, 2005
    Posts: 8,837

    seb fontana
    Member
    from ct

    Ask who gave you the info on the clutch in the first place? Ask which TOB and how much movement is required at the bearing and you can adjust your linkage to get the needed amount..Multi-disc clutches don't have to have lots of pressure plate pressure because of the multiple discs; more surface area..
     
  17. 51504bat
    Joined: May 22, 2010
    Posts: 5,161

    51504bat
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I doubt this could be the problem but one never knows. Years ago a buddy had a badly worn pilot bushing in his small block and the clutch peddle was almost impossible to depress. New pilot bushing and all was wonderful. Like I said doubt this is the problem but worth checking just in case.
     
  18. dreracecar
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 3,476

    dreracecar
    Member
    from so-cal

    But the dia is reduced and so goes the leverage thus the addition of more disc's. I would think that setup more inclined for road-race to get the engine to RPM quickly out of the turns. By chance have you expressed your issues with the maker??? Thats step #1
     
  19. els
    Joined: Sep 11, 2016
    Posts: 359

    els
    Member

    IMG_5377.jpg 0225171816b.jpg 0225171816b.jpg Thank you guys so far for helping. Keep suggestions coming. Yes it is a CM/P CORVETTE. The T/O bearing looks high on the fingers. Somebody said need to do more squats. I weigh 240lbs and 6ft3. And I can't hold that clutch down for the staging lights. I do have a Doug Nash 5 speed transmission. I checked the geometry of the clutch pedal and rods to pedal and it is perfect. I even went as far as to install and stock clutch in car and it pushed down like butter. So with all of you help I may try t/o bearing or go to a different clutch all together. The car is very light and very fast once it gets off the line. Thank you.
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2017
    bonesy likes this.
  20. Dan Timberlake
    Joined: Apr 28, 2010
    Posts: 1,566

    Dan Timberlake
    Member

    The flanged main bearing and the crankshaft probably have not been enjoying this much either.
     
  21. Good point. I never start a stick shift car with the clutch in ,for that reason. Clutch out, neutral.
    Wouldn't hurt to check thrust bearing end play while it's apart.
    Who made the clutch? Does it have SEMA markings?
    I think I'd start there.
     
  22. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,544

    oj
    Member

    Look at your pedal geometry too, when we ran multidisc we'd operate the clutch pedal by hand. can you feel it 'tip over?' when in the lights the pedal is almost effortless, if you can't feel it 'tip over' then it is a question of geometry. Got to have the right TO like others have said. Seems tome the clutch pedal from Rick Jones has a number of holes, have a look at one of them.
     
  23. make the return spring pull in the other direction:D
     
    turboroadster likes this.
  24. els
    Joined: Sep 11, 2016
    Posts: 359

    els
    Member

    The clutch is suppose to be a Lingenfelter clutch. I don't think it is. I thought of a return spring. I thing it is an old MR GASKET clutch. Built back in the 70s. BUT, this clutch is so hard you have to put 2 feet on pedal to push it. Something wrong. I will try T/O bearing. The pedal moves so easy with out clutch installed it fall to the floor. If the stock clutch is easy than I will put new clutch in. But maybe a power glide. LOL.
     
    rjones35 likes this.
  25. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 15,999

    jimmy six
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    We run a triple 7" Ram and it has almost no pedal pressure and uses a Lightweight starter ring gear and a Howe hydraulic TO.
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  26. els
    Joined: Sep 11, 2016
    Posts: 359

    els
    Member

    jimmy six. thank you.
     
  27. Engine man
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,480

    Engine man
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Find some drag racers and they can probably tell you what brand it is so you can get the correct throw out bearing for it. You might have to make one by grinding the outer edge so it only touches the inner end of the fingers.
     
  28. Engine man
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,480

    Engine man
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    [​IMG] Here is the Howe throw out bearing. It has the rounded surface that would only touch the tips. Somebody must have made a mechanical one.
     
  29. els
    Joined: Sep 11, 2016
    Posts: 359

    els
    Member

    Engine man. that bearing looks like it will fit finger better at the end of fingers. thank you.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  30. And the reason for that would be?
     

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