What tie rod end to use on split bones and hairpins???

Is there a big difference in using 5/8"
(thread size) tie rod ends for my hairpins
(front) and split bones (rear) in my
model A coupe ? Worried about strength. Thanks
Rick

 

I meant between 5/8" and 11/16" size tie rod ends.
(dumb-shit deletion)

 

Bigger the better especially on the rear. Try to strengthen the attachment points on the rear axle as much as practical. Breakage there is a potential problem with split rear bones. An I-beam front axle will bend when it twists but a solid rear axle sure won't. Mounting split rear bones on the frame sides is an invitation to cracking at the axle mount. Keeping the bones mounted as close together as possible near the trans (mimicking the original setup) is the best way to avoid this.

 

Some of the 11/16" are an oddball thread.Goodluck finding a tap.
Don't know about 5/8".
However, TRW ES-150R comes with a 3/4"-16 right hand thread.
I think they are replacements for some big Ford truck.

 

[ QUOTE ]
Some of the 11/16" are an oddball thread.Goodluck finding a tap.

[/ QUOTE ]


you're right....ford used 11/16"-18 thread , which is a real odd size. speedway has them in their catalog for real resonable money...... #912-81037-LF left $29.95........ and #912-81037-RH right $19.95

 

Does Ford still use the same thread,and taper?

 

i'm not sure what ford uses now for tie rod ends, but the 11/16"-18 thread was used on the old fords. the taper for stud going into the steering arms is 1-1/2" per foot....speedway has the taper reamer too...#910-89411 for $79.95...i have one,so if anybody needs something taper reamed,i'd be happy to do it

 

Be careful ordering tie rod ends from Speedway. They have been known to ship mismatched right and left hand sides. I have two pair that the studs are differnt length for each set. Makes it hard to make your stuff look symmetrical!!!! My tie rod went downhill due to this.

 

Thanks for all the info guys, but still wondering if I can use the 5/8" size instead of 11/16" safely front and rear on my A coupe?

 

The TRW ES-150R with a 3/4"-16 right hand thread has the same taper as the older Fords, HOWEVER, it has a larger diameter to the tapered section and a longer length as well. Therefore will require the hole reamed out more and best if mounted in material around 5/6 thick.

Believe it was used as the centre tie rod end in Ford 1/2 tons up to around 78 or 9

 

Well, in a round-a-bout way, sounds like some suggestions to use a 3/4" tie rod end, which I may do in the back on the split bones. I already have the front wishbones made though, and they are tapped for 5/8", so that's what I'll have to use in front.
Thanks for the input.
Rick

 

FWIW I've got a whole bunch of miles(13yrs) on 5/8 hei m joints on the front of my roadster. I beam with A bones.OK

 

Thanks Andy that's good news. I'm using heims on the front of my T, but want to use tie rod ends on my A.
We'll see I guess!

 

I`m running the 11/16" ty rod ends on my split bones.I had the bungs for the ends of the bones turned up and gave the machinist a rod end and said that thats the size I want tapped into the bung...simple eh? he takes out his thread guage and measures it up and says he does`nt have a tap that spec,a real oddball.we get the catalogues out and find an 11/16" tap but it costs £75($120) plus carriage ouch!I bites the bullet and gives him the nod...the tap arrives, but it`s 20 tpi instead of 18 tpi, what now??He took the tap into his own stock and then told me matter of factly that he can cut the threads on the lathe anyhow!!

Personally,I would`nt go with anything smaller than 11/16".

 

Man, hope that machinist wasn't a buddy! What a dick!
Thanks for the input. I'll have to go with 5/8" on the front whether it's a tie rod joint or heim joint now that that's what the threading is.

 

Are you f'n kidding me? You purchased that tap. I would have demanded that I be given it with along with my equipment and left.

 

FWIW again I thought I would share this. You don't have to weld a bung on the ends of model A front bones. Cut them just outside where they have finished changing shape. Grind to a nice tapered shape. Flated the end and tap. Plenty of meat for 5/8. I've done both styles of bones this way. Cheers!

 

Great tip on the model a bones. I'm going to use later bones, so I'll definately be welding in a bung.