I tried searching for this, but couldn't find the right thread. What is the best first step for a freshly media-blasted car body? I just got my '51 Chevy coupe body blasted (there was a LOT of surface rust!). It's on its way to my house right now. It's going to be 8 degrees tomorrow, so I'm not doing anything for a few days, but once it warms back up my plan has been to clean it and put on a nice coat of epoxy primer to seal it up. Any other suggestions? Some sort of prep or wipe I should use to clean it before sealing?
Thanks, but I am asking a serious question. I want this car to last me a long time, and I've never had a body blasted down to bare metal before. I just want to make sure I don't need to do anything special before laying down the epoxy primer.
wipe with a good quality oil/wax remover and epoxy prime. unless it was soda, then I *THINK* a mild acid wash (think vinegar) is recommended to neutralize the pH.
Get a good coat of self-etching primer on it (inside and out) ASAP. I think the places that do media blasting should put an Iron Phosphate coating on the metal right after the blasting process. Most just leave you with bare metal, ready to flash-rust.
I have a T body in my garage that I had blasted @ 5 months ago.....I haven't cleaned it, primered it or even touched it in that time and it looks exactly the same as the day it was blasted. And I live in one of the wettest states. This old tin, even when blasted, doesn't "flash" rust like new metal does.
Soda blasting leaves a coating that can resist rust for some time. It must be removed before painting or primering
i dont think he had it soda blasted,,he said there was a lot of surface rust...soda blasting will not remove very much rust..i think you need to runa DA over it, blow it off, wipe it down with metal cleaner, and get it in epoxy........thats what i'd do anyway..
Did it get rid of all of the rust? If not your gonna want to get rid of as much as possible. Use 80g on a DA (even if all of the rust is gone you need mechanical adhesion for your primer), if you got some deeper pits hit em quick with a 3in roloc disc or something close to it to grind out as much as possible. It's not a bad idea to treat the metal with a acid wash. PPG makes one but I cant think of the number. Follow the directions and then DA again hit it with a good pre paint cleaner or wax and grease remover and I'd recomend an Epoxy primer. They have a better prevention of rust than a polyester primer. Yes it's a lot of work but it's definalely worth it in the end!
DX579 is not to be used on a sand blasted metal. Don't forget to sand the body. I know this may sound stupid.... but in the process of blasting some of the sand particles get imbedded in the metal. To get it all off you need to sand the body down. Nothing crazy, hit it with some 320 and then clean with some wax and grease remover and then spray either an etch or good epoxy. I have seen cars that were blasted and didn't have the panels sanded have the paint job fail later. It doesn't take very long to sand it in order to insure a long lasting finish. Good luck.
...I had a 67 Dodge media blasted a while back...sat for years in a non-climate controlled garage and flashed only where my sweaty hands touched it...before we finally primed it, we only sanded the flash off, scotch-brited(?) the beast with acetone and wiped it down with a generic body shop prep spray...a friend of mine bought it and it has sat outside his shop for the last 4 years with no peeling/rusting/bubbling issues...he is the one who sprayed it, but I can't remember what kind of primer it was... ...just make sure you spend ALOT of time getting all that media outta the nooks and crannies...
I run a da over mine then use a spray bottle to apply Ospho, let it sit over night, wire brush it and epoxy it.
not really, it'll just rust under the clear, kind of a dumb idea... I like OSPHO. I have one that has sat in the shop for at least a year bare metal treated with OSPHO, no rust yet...
Du pont make an spray on zinc phosphate will seal the metal, and etch properly for paint. your local auto body supply store should have it
Make sure all the areas , espesially the cracks and crevases are clear of the bead material.. Acetone , or M.E.K mixed with slow thinner so it does not evaporate so fast..with Red scotchbrite pads wash and wipe clean.. Epoxy prime.. Like with PPG DP 40.. it will protect the metal. leave it dry and you can do any preperations or repairs after that.. it drys thin.. no build up..
I have a quart of OSHPO and I've always liked it in the past but I've only ever used it on small areas or internal (like floorboards or inside doors). Are you saying I can cover the whole body with it, and then prime with no problems? That would be sweet.
Hello, you can spray all the bare metal area with the PPG Dp40.. after it has cured properly and left so it has plenty of time to dry.. you can use it as a protective coating.. and prepare your car as required and apply other products over top. just make sure it has been scuffed first.. My car will be done the same way.. it will keep unwanted sweat build up out from between the panels.. its not bullit proof.. but will do the trick protecting the metal..