First I did a search and came up with two threads and many opinions I have a Chevy c-10 truck with rubber gasket I want to know what I should use as a sealer between gasket and car body ... " nothing" is the wrong answer btw So far calling brothers and other gl*** shops, cl***ic industries and an autobody supply I have got these answers : - nothing -strip caulk -winshield urethane -Rtv silicone -weatherstrip adhesive -grease -seam sealer -rubber cement -" proper gl*** sealing compound" I am completely confused by all the " pros" responses
I would say if the metal is properly finished you shouldnt need anything. The rubber is a fricton fit and should keep the elements out.
Steele Rubber, the leading supplier of aftermarket WS gaskets recommends the 3M products. I just installed the back window and the WS in my 49 sedanette and their directions have you use a calk tube material on the metal lip and a black tube material between the rubber and the gl***. I can get you the exact 3M number when I go to the shop tomorrow if you PM me or you can just call Steele.
We used to use nothing on the old trucks too. What did the old gasket have on it? On my Ford the installer used a black butyl sealer on the gasket. He said it would stay pliable and not harden up. I wasn't going to argue with him. The old one had nothing on it.
I have witnessed lots of leaks and taken my share of stuff apart to see channels rotted or rusted out, this is going to be a driver that sees the weather, so I want to take most precaution nessesary One gl*** place insisted this was the right way to do it ....2 others said I would regret it if I ever had to pull the gl*** again ... I've used urathane on other stuff before, it's weld like bonding properties worry me a little for future.... And the potential black mess on a white truck which is why I eliminated this as a option One gl*** place said the sun would melt it all out on the paint and make a mess, but I think this is the stuff to use perhaps
I forget the number but I used a black 3M product in a full sized caulking tube. I taped around the edges after I cleaned the area where the rubber meets the gl*** and the body metal.Then I stuck the tube end under the rubber and laid a nice bead all around the perimeter. Then wiped the excess that squeezed out then pulled the tape. I did this to my 51 fleetline that was leaking water like a seive. I did the gl*** and then I did the body side of the rubber. Front and back windshields. Worked great. Pat
this is what you're "supposed" to use....3M - Auto Bedding And Glazing Compound http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MMM0/08509/N0468.oap
If the window opening pinch weld is good, the gl*** fits properly and the seal fits correctly nothing should be needed.
Installing the gl*** with the windshield urethane you do run the risk of getting some black on the paint,as careful as we were there were a few spots on the cream color but was easily cleaned up with lacquer thinner. I never considered removing the gl*** but if for some reason that happens I let a gl*** shop worry about that,it's their job and I would ***ume that thousands of windshields are sealed like this. One thing for sure, I don't have any leaks. HRP
Urethane sealer started being used when they stopped using rubber gaskets on some new cars (about 35 years ago, iirc) then some gl*** folks decided it was the "best" way to install all auto gl***. I guess they don't consider that some poor ****er might have to work on it again in 10 or 20 years.
I've taken the gl*** out of several tri 5 chevies. They all had some kind of sealer on the gl*** and the pinch weld. The repop rubber does not fit as well as the original. Tried 3m strip chalk on the last one. 3m has changed their formula and the strip chalk is terrible. If the factory we had a black dum dum that was made by the Mortel company. That worked well. I've used all my stash up. The tri 5 backlite seal we buy today will leave a gap on the right are left lower corner. If right fits left gaps vice versa. They will leak.
Yes, that is the worry also , the truck is supposed to become my new daily driver if I ever finish it... I seem to hit a rock about every couple years so I'm ***uming I will need to replace it a few times in the near future My gl*** and the gasket is re-pop so it's almost a givin that it's not going to fit aswell as GM , so that was part of the concern also, most of the at***ude from the places I talked to was ... It's a cl***ic car... Not like your really driving this thing..
Thanks squirrel, on one of the threads I found on hamb a " gl*** guy" claimed , he stopped using 3m products cause " it dried into chalk" in two years time, cracked and made matters worse ... I know this may seem **** to some but I want to do it right , and figure out good products to use... Could be a benifit for lots of us... Maybe his 3m experiance was a fluke
The way I was told, about 1980 or so, all windshields had to be adhered in place, so they stay in place in an accident situation. One gl*** shop told me that, I used to buy everything I needed from them when I did a windshield.
My Ford had some caulk-like material around the pinch-weld areas. I was amazed at how clean everything was, zero rust or anything else under the old gasket. The gl*** guy did my gasket with the black butyl product I mentioned, all well and good until he had to pop it out to re-set the lower trim that came out. WD40 removes it from painted surfaces very well.
I was always taught as an apprentice at a Ford dealership to seal the gl*** in the rubber with a bead of sealer under the front lip where it covers the gl*** and a bead of sealer on the rear outside edge where the seal seats against the body. A bit messy as it squeezes out when you pull the cord to pull it in, it definitely seals once pulled in and tapped into place. Wipe over with the edges with kerosene rag to remove the sealer, then a wet rag and a little clean up. Done! Never leaks and I did quite a few over the years with no warranty claims or come backs.
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