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Technical What to soak rusted assemblies in?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Budget36, Mar 27, 2022.

  1. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 14,422

    Budget36
    Member

    For that wrench…after I pulled out my parts, I put 5 or 6 adjustable wrenches in the tub(CA). Pulled them out a week later, rinsed them off. All but one was working fine. I’d suspect you’ll have the same luck with the molasses.
     
    SS327 likes this.
  2. slowmotion
    Joined: Nov 21, 2011
    Posts: 3,359

    slowmotion
    Member

    FWIW, I got a Ford scripted 'monkey' wrench in an auction box years back. 24hrs in white vinegar, rinse, blow dry, soaked down with W-D, new again. :D
     
    '28phonebooth and Budget36 like this.
  3. Crafty
    Joined: Jun 26, 2002
    Posts: 253

    Crafty
    Member
    from UK

    Chelation is just a chemical reaction, I've read use of citric acid referred to as chelation - we'd probably need a chemist to tell us if that is accurate or not.

    Evaporust are pretty keen on highlighting the dangers of acids, I would be too if I was trying to sell my product I guess. Discussion over on GJ here https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/generic-rust-removal-solution.69793/ suggests that the main ingredient of evaporust is actually a mild acid. It'd be interesting to see if that is correct and how effective it is in its own right.

    Sure an acid will rip up good metal at high concentrations, hence you keep the concentration low. Interesting article here: https://studiovrm.net/racing-secrets/are-evapo-rust-and-deox-c-really-safe/ if you haven't seen the name before Bilt Hamber are a UK company who make and sell a range of anti corrosion/paints and cleaning products. The product in the article (deox-c) is an evaporust competitor, widely accepted to be citric acid with a detergent in it. As you can see, it fairs no worse than evaporust in terms of "eating away" at the item. This mirrors my experience using citric acid at low concentration.

    The only other thing to note is deox-c is it is available as granules (which you dilute in water) or a gel. The gel is useful if so if you have something its not possible to submerge you can apply the gel and wrap with clingfilm (saran wrap) which stops it evaporating while it works, same deal coat it up, leave it 24 hours, the gel will turn yellowy / brown / black which you can just wash off.
     
  4. Bob Lowry
    Joined: Jan 19, 2020
    Posts: 1,573

    Bob Lowry

    I became a citric acid believer after I reluctantly tried it. Had 3 sbc cranks that were horrible, soaked them in
    a 5 gal bucket, turning the upside down after 72 hrs. and they came out perfect. Sold them for 5x what I was
    asking before the citric bath. More recently, I took some before after photos of my '64 bumper end to
    give you an better idea. I usually mix 2 cups citric acid to 1 gal of water...give or take.....I simply hosed the
    parts off, NO scrubbing...

    Here is a recent before and after shot....
    bumper10.jpg
    bumper7.JPG bumper9.jpg bumper5.JPG
     
  5. RmK57
    Joined: Dec 31, 2008
    Posts: 2,870

    RmK57
    Member

    I use a product called Metal Rescue. I got caught in a flash rain unloading some parts into a trailer. Bought a gallon of this stuff and I'm quite impressed. Used it for solid week on rusted parts and it still works although it is getting weaker or takes longer for good results.

    chuck.JPG
     
    SilverJimmy likes this.
  6. Jack E/NJ
    Joined: Mar 5, 2011
    Posts: 883

    Jack E/NJ
    Member
    from NJ

    Not the same chucks.
     
    Budget36 likes this.

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