I'm rebuilding the bottom of the A and B pillers of my ride(rusty). The B piller's drop down to the quarter panel that attaches the running boards. after fabing the bases/bottom what would you suggest to paint/coat the internal surfaces? Note: I sprayed some of the inaccessible channels with galvinising spray befor folding them up and was intending to brush a sticky oil based paint such as Ace of Spades, Pore 15 or spraying in an undercoating product. Also the A piller base is extremely restricted, just one stupid little access hole near the bottom door hinges. I was hoping a spray product with a wand applicator would be available. Any great ideas or conventions out there, successful ones I mean?
I have been using the Eastwood internal frame coating for a while it comes with a hose to get in deep.
It's really difficult to beat 3M Rust-Fighter internal panel coating (clear-ish waxy coating) for applications like this. The off-brands are NOT as good. Not a place to cheap out.
Brake cleaner nozzle with wand on a paint rattle can will get into some tight places. Some paint shops can load por 15 or any paint into a rattle can.
I thin out POR-15 and POR it in places like that. smaller parts i roll them around trying to coat the inside surface. You said maybe under coating??? if you spent any time in junk yards pulling parts you soon see that rubber undercoating over rust is the sure way to rust it through. I never use that ****!
thanks for the sage advice, I do have a can of pore15, havn't opened it yet. I had built these parts back in 1980 and they rusted out so you can see why I'm wanting to not have to do this again. http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r781/Randa-Roo/2014_01040005_zps3917ee8c.jpg http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r781/Randa-Roo/2014_010400072_zps18b477c3.jpg Whats in gray is the new metal, access is a bit tough, the hole by the lower hinge on the post is almost all i've got for the A piller base and i may drill some drain holes in the support channel which would be great for that spray nozzle idea.... i think it was the Eastwood product or other. I could probably make something to hold and spray a mixture but I'm prone to wearing most of my experiments like that so an off-t******lf item may save me.
It's damn near impossible to seal out moisture on those inside areas. Much easier to give the moisture a way out and air a way in. You could also shoot oil in there once a year, that will help too.
if its anything like my cheiftain it doesn't help the rear windows guide the water right to the area if the collection tube is gone or plugged up , I am thinking on mounting the back windows solid .
This makes sense to me too "It's damn near impossible to seal out moisture on those inside areas. Much easier to give the moisture a way out and air a way in. You could also shoot oil in there once a year, that will help too. " Which sounds pretty interesting to me, if I think hard I may be able to open up a flow through bit of venting in those areas. The problem is that evil 'sand and salt cake mix' we can build here if the tire spray can reach any opening and no way to flush it out. So from this and other posts here I'm thinking of using the hole saw in some careful locations, painting the **** out of it with galvanizing spray or brush-on and overcoating with por15 or like all my unrusting farm truck engine bays... spray with old oil. All the bodies rot away but the engine areas with a healthy coat of hydraulic or what-ever oil lasts forever Also like to look at the eastwood frame spray if I can get it the next time I go to the big city. http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-w-spray-nozzle.html
Ohio resident here so I know rust salt and dirt. Funny though I've never seen a rust thru on a pick up bed inner fender. They get blasted with every ounce the tires kick up and never rust. The little corners that catch **** always go. Its the details on the connections and that stupid vibration foam. Same thing with floor boards.
I now use 3M Rust Fighter. Great stuff. But, I used to use 90 weight gear oil. Oily metal don't rust. I used gear oil on my 65 Barracuda 25 years ago, and still get an oily film on the wheel opening moulding screws, and sill plate screws. I have to wipe them clean every spring before I take it out. Stunk like gear lube for a while afterwards though.
The Jalopy Journal
