I was wondering, is it better for the front end to come up quick(from pretty low)and stay up(like with 90/10s), or to have a tall static height that changes only a few inches? And we are talking about older tire technology and not wrinkle walls. is one better for a short wheel base were the other is better for a lil' longer? -Jesse
The 90/10 method is probably more stable at the top end of the track, when the nose has settled back down. The nose-high setup just looks cooler.
The further your car moves up, down, or sideways, the less energy you're putting into moving forward, which is what wins races. Ideally the suspension geometry should hold the car still (level) as it launches. The rear end should kick down hard enough to stop the car tilting backwards, and the front should come up as little as possible on it's supension travel so the wheels are nearly but not quite off the ground. Then you have max weight on the rear wheels, and minimum bodywork leaping all around to upset steering and movement forward. Of course, all this modern suspension 'tech' stuff looks as boring as***** in action, and we all prefer to see a car leaping off the ground, smoking like a********, and tearing up the strip at a diagonal
So with a medium static height and some 90/10's I'll get good weight transfer, with super stock leafs a pinion snubber and 50/50's? It doesn't necicerilaly have to be low in the front to still have decent movement and lift for optimum traction? -Jesse
Mopars have the most violent launching suspension.........in the rear, since you are talking mopar now..... you will want the longest , softest, rear shocks possible. wore out chrysler imperial shocks from the junkyard are good..., in the front, you will want slant 6 torsion bars. Order the chassis manual from mopar. It is terribly outdated material, but will tell you everything you will want to know about old time drag racing suspension....
So I guess I'm asking is if I raise the front end and do those few things will I still have traction, even with a high nose and rigid wall slicks? -Jesse
what are you building, using superstock leaf springs, and a pinion snubber? I am guessing a mopar???? Super stock springs are wierd, as they are not the same side for side, the pass side spring is stiffer, making the car sit crooked ON PURPOSE. The rear will sit super "JACKED UP".... When you launch, the body will rise, and push the rear end down towards the track (it's really cool looking.) there is massive body seperation, usually 18 to 24 inches from the wheelwell to the top of the tire... and if set up right, your head should hit the headliner when you launch. If you raise the front end it will still work, but not as good. If you are not building a mopar, you probably won't be using super stock springs, and a pinion snubber. you really should go to the drags and watch some 11 and 12 second bracket cars launch..... especially the chryslers I am sure you will see something you like.... LUKESTER (former mopar racer)
IF you raise the nose you will probably HURT the traction..... you wouldn't need 90-10s in the front if you raised the front end.... Tell us more about what your working on, If you want to look cool, or make it down the track fast........ LUKESTER
Don't laugh, it's my '62 Valient. I'm planing on building a "hot" slant six for it, possibly even turboed(my goal is to run in the 16 second braket). I haven't started building the motor yet($$$)so I thought I would start with the chassis and rear end first, then build the******* then the motor. The car wieghs 2600 lbs(140lbs lighter than a similarly equipped ChevyII)so it wont take a WHOLE lot to move her right along. Do you know a site that has calculators to figure how much power and what gears to make a certain vehicle go a certain ET? I would like to go fast(for a slant)but do it in style(a lil' 60's super stock flair). Thanks for the Help. -Jesse
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