Hot Rods whats going on with the front frame on this car???

gonna take some fab work to get mine down in the back...

 

i think its gonna kinda have this look with the 7 & 8's... i really like the pic above.... so might have to buy some steelies

 

Both are good options

 

these look like 7's up front.... I think I get my rims today...7's and 8's, problem for me already is I think the rims are gonna be too wide and throw the car right into a 70's /80's build...what I would really like to do is change the rotors to 5-5.5 bolt circle, and the rear axels.... if I go painted wheels I can get 5'' wheels

 

You've got me well confused! Are you suggesting that steel wheels in 5" width with 5 on 4.5 pcd aren't available? Or is it just that you have a selection of 5 on 5.5's?

Chris

 

carpet has to match the drapes...JMO... but take a yellow car, and what ever color you do the interior is the accent color... so as in my car the 2 colors of painted wheels would be tan... or yellow... any other color would look like socks on a rooster'''... so to do black wheels I would need black seats..the red wheels is a no for me...

 

yeah, I got every size wire wheel and some steel wheels , but all5.5 bolt...I could even rob the wheels off my wifes RPU and paint them tan.... but they're 5.5 also... I ordered 7's and 8's just to get a wheel on the car.... with the split bones the car could lend easy to a more traditional look with bias tires... my goal today is 8'' wide rear 30'' tall and 6'' wide tire 26'' tall for the front this will at least get me going... probley lot of fab work to do to get it where it' sits like I want....but just getting wheels on it so I can drive it is the main goal...

 

And you're not Robinson Crusoe........

 

are these 46-48 wheels and caps???

 

???? meaning???

 

as always for me,... wheels tires,and stance define a car... kind of a make or break deal...so taking time to select, and being able to start over and not say,... I bought the wheels so now I'm stuck.... if they are way wrong,,,, I'll change them...it's only money.... pick the right wheels and you'll forget what you paid..... pick the wrong ones and you'll be reminded every time you look at the car what you spent to not get what you wanted..

 

I take it youll be swapping those dampers out, that one there is a bit too bashed up to be doing alot

 

good eye mate... going for chrome ones...

 

been 2 days detailing underside of this car......really

 

You missed a bit...........

 

I have to have my wife take pics and post them for me.... I say come out to the garage and takes some pics for me..... her; of what?..... me; i cleaned under the roadster and want a pic..... she looks under the car and say's "You're not done are you?"

 

ALLDONE, As far as having pictures & threads deleted I have had a lot deleted over the past 20 plus years, some were blatant where others were non intentional, coloring outside the rules is taboo and the moderators stay vigilant.

You are not the first to have post deleted and certainly will not be the last, brush it off and keep posting, when in doubt we now have the off topic section where almost anything goes that has wheels no matter how big they are, but the traditional sections will always be watched closely by the moderators as it should.

Your new and your going to make a mistake or two every now and then,it's a normal thing, hang in there my friend. HRP

 

MORE DETAILING...

I think it's gonna be a car some day

 

still no wheels....and still would like to know what motor I got...searched everywhere... no luck the stamped number is VK231800.... I'M THINKING IT MIGHT BE A TARGET... or factory replacement????.....

 

Regarding the engine height, again(!), I think something is not quite right. Looking at the engine moutnt it looks to be level with the frame. Many are like that with no problem. I have one with an 89 Corvette engine mounted like that with the stock oil pan. I know you've said your long headers run to just below the level of the pan, in which case I'm thinking that not only are the headers too deep but you must have a particularly deep oil pan too, as the mounts appear to be in a typical position. I wonder how deep your oil pan is. Easier to swap the pan and pickup than to remount the engine?

Chris

 

According to the following info it looks like a factory replacement engine, so the engine number will not give you the capacity or any other helpful information. Drop a head off and check the bore and stroke.

Note: CODE CExxxx (counter or crate engine) was used from 1968 to current year. It represents any CID and is used to indicate this particular engine was replaced under Warranty. It is a direct replacement for the original equipment. It doesn't indicate what the original equipment was.

VF292800 - is an example of a over the counter crate engine. "2800" is the last 4 digits of the GM part # for the crate engine assembly. The final digit could be a year code.
Another example: A Targetmaster engine (p/n 14009800) built in 1985 could have a code stamped as follows:
A0198005 (A = january, 01, 9800 = pn, 5 = 1985).

 

Studebaker wheels are 15 inch and 5x4.5 pattern, as another option.

 

Also many pre1960s IH half tons had 16" 5x4.5

 

Problems arise getting them (stock wheels) to clear the front discs

 

ok, got some wheels and tires... fronts...15x5 5:90 tire
rear 15x7 8:20 tires.. rims are old school hotrod wheels.. tires are BFG silvertown

 

I gotta move the lic. plate frame up to between the tail lights.... looks like a happy face in the rear...... proble monday take it to the shop for the new chrome shocks and move the head lights forward...

 

been out romping it around.... it'll unload the rear 8:20's with out pushing it to the floor