Technical What's the best chassis paint?

I need to rebuild my suspension, so it's a good time to strip and paint the whole underside of the car. What works best? POR15 is durable but finicky and requires a top coat. Rustoleum? followed by Raptor?

 

I like Hirsch Miracle paint ( moisture cure urethane similar to POR 15 ) . It is light sensitive but on suspension components that hasn't been an issue. On my avatar I used PPG DP 40 primer and top coated with PPG Pithane; it's made for covering heavy steel structures continuously out doors. It's really durable but over kill.

 

It depends on the type car your building, A hiboy that shows the frame as in Deuce rail I would prefer painting the body color, for a frame that is not a focal piece I always sand blast, prime with RUSTOLEUM and finish with Semi-Gloss Black RUSTOLEM enamel. HRP

 

that's it...."best" for what? Some things you might consider....

Durability--what is the car exposed to? Sun, salt, lots of miles, or does it live a sheltered life?

Ease of application--maybe you'd rather brush on the paint, or use a spray can, or do you have a booth?

Cost--does it matter to you? what's your budget? Do you need to buy more stuff to apply it well?

Appearance--is it a show car? does the chassis show? Do you care how it looks after a few years?

Once you figure out the requirements, the best product and application method will probably be obvious.

 

On the topic of Raptor:

My Falcon has Raptor in the wheelhouses, inside the front fenders, and on the bottom of the fuel tank. IT has been on there for about 12,500-miles, is undamaged, and when hosed-off, looks like it was jsut applied.

On the more extreme-end, the entire outside of my shop truck, is coated in color-matched Raptor!

The occasional rains, and the garden hose keep it looking fresh.

It is not a good fit to every purpose, but when applied to a properly prepared surface, it is very tough!

 

Good to know, thanks

 

No offence intended but I have use POR15 my first and last time, that stuff gets everywhere you want it and don't want it. HRP

 

I've had good luck with John Deere Blitz Black. I sandblasted the frame, sprayed etch primer and let it dry. Scuff it with a maroon pad and spray it with the paint. I use their hardener and reduce with xylene. Drys fast without sticky overspray and has held up well since '09 and 43,000 miles, even on the front of the frame that is exposed to the sun.

Gary

 

As mentioned above: best in what department?
I seem to always use Tremclad/Rustoleum on frames and chassis components.Pretty durable, easy to touch up, and relatively inexpensive. I just drive my cars, so the paint finish underneath (shine etc) isn't really on my radar. So best on my list, might not be best on yours.

 

Good questions. So this is a unibody custom. The underside won't be shown or seen really. I don't have a rotisserie, so my best bet is probably something that can be brushed on, but suspension parts can be removed for paint. I plan to drive and enjoy the car, but it probably won't see salt or harsh environments. Durability and protection are more important than appearance.

 

Quick note, on the last frame I painted, I brushed the paint on, then ran over it with a small foam roller. Smoothed right out, and no brush marks.

 

Im in the cheap but effective use Rusto rattle can semi gloss black club. Im not sure if they sell a brushable equivalent. A quick tip I picked up, is aluminum foil makes quick work of masking things that are tough to wrap w paper & tape. Just wrap it around then remove after paint.

 

eastwood 2K chassis black !
check it out comes in several options
low sheen or gloss
quart or even rattle can With serious HARDENER
and it sets up unlike any spray bomb you’ll ever see. I used it for my entire subframe and from top of firewall to trunk underside floor all undercarriage areas
its kinda spendy stuff but well worth it
done once …..and done.
i really like their 2k line.

 

On suspension components, I use Rustoleum hammer tone. It’s direct to metal, no primer needed and pretty durable. They make it in a number of colors.

 

Tamco Monocoat is much better than anything Eastwood offers & also better than POR-15

https://tamcopaint.com/products/monocoat-1-k-direct-to-rust?_pos=1&_sid=9ea403f49&_ss=r

God Bless
Bill
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ar-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/

 

Don't paint naked.

 

Rustoleum in the quart can, brushed on, put a small amount in a separate container and paint out of it. Two coats with at least 3 days between. I suggest several different brush widths. By cheap brushes, replace them when they get loaded up.

 

There`s a place here in town that does powder coating for super cheap. $500 or less. Depends on the day. It is a manufacturing facility.

 

I have used the JD paint on several parts/frame with very good and long lasting results. Figured if it can take the beating it takes in farm use it can take what I'm gonna use it for on a vehicle.

 

I’ve used Tremclad with good results. One of the guys swears by Tremclad flat and gloss in a 4:1 mix ratio. Durable as hell, easy to touch up, inexpensive, and a near perfect match foe OEM chassis paint!

 

Have started using the Eastwood Rust Encapsulor Plus. Really like it.

 

I use VHT spray bombs, chassis and roll cage black. It has a nice matte finish and blends well for touch ups. I buy it in 6 can cases on eBay or Amazon. I last bought some in 2015, came to $6 per can. It hangs in there, but my car sits in the garage and not outside.

 

Surface prep?
Rust and just wire brushing? Use whatever rust conversion product you like. The rusty metal primers I’ve used seem to do ok. I’ve got a 61 Chevy that we wire brushed, used oil based rusty metal primer then oil based satin black. Cheap and easy. Has held up well.
The bed liner is great but at the cost, I’d probably do a lot more prep.
On higher end builds, we blasted, epoxied and used a water based product made by WURTH underneath the floors and fenders. It’s paintable if desired. It looks like bed liner but is softer. Don’t mistake that for lack of toughness. It’s tough. But being softer it’s makes a better sound deadener.
Suspension parts were epoxied then painted.
There is no best answer other than using whatever product you choose correctly.

 

The best is free

Ok, that aside I knew we'd hear from the POR-15 haters and they have a point. Messy, sensitive to light, blah blah. I'll let y'all in on a secret, every one of those encapsulate rust paints ARE THE SAME. Ever wonder why most are manufactured in the same state of NJ? Hircsh, Eastwood, POR, and other brands that came and went over the last 30+ years. Like oils some are reformulated to dry faster or look better or whatever "new and improved" slogan they can add. What can you get easily, apply with the least fuss or mess, and of course all the "...best for what..." as listed above. The ass end of my 39 chassis is all surface rusted. I'm gonna use POR, spray it thru a cheapo spritzer bottle over the rust as it was intended to be used. Sticks better that way for those who don't already realize. No crumbs, no dust, but rust nonetheless. Why? I already have 1 ½ qts on the shelf, ain't buying any new fangled latest BS, shits not cheap any more so why not. No salt spray or offroad use planned so theres that...

 

Prep and neutralize the rust. Air chisel, wire wheel, phosphoric acid, soap and water to neutralize.

Paint, industrial alkyd enamel (valsap. majic, rustoleum) WITH hardener, thin with acetone for fast dry, mineral spirits for slow dry. Valspar hardener, or any enamel hardener works in these paints. Spray or brush is fine. ** spray cans from home improvement store are junk, they've been regulated so hard the paint in them is horrible.

Epoxy primer is better. Urethane is better. Real automotive paint is better, all depends on your price point.

I don't like POR15 at all - I'll leave it alone, been on that rant already.

 

I sand blast, prime with Rustoleum primer and top coat with Satin Black Rustoleum, easy and cheap

 

Modern Rodding Jan 2023 just came out and they have a good article on applying Por 15 if you go that way.
I have gone to Tractor Supply and purchased some of their tractor/implement paint which applies well and is reasonably inexpensive.
The question is........how rusty are the surfaces you are dealing with? Will you need to get into somewhat inaccessable areas? Personally I prefer spraying as you can make paint go into inaccessable areas that will haunt you later on. Sprayed inside the rocker panels on a vehicle recently. It was a new body so bare metal. Ended up using an undercoating gun with a hose attached and the nozzle at the end of the hose. It let me push the hose thru the inside of the rocker panel and some other areas that would never see paint normally.

 

I love Raptor. I use it on EVERYTHING!

 

I usually use Krylon Rust Tough semi flat black. On my ‘56 Chevy I just wire brushed most of the frame and fender wells, wipe down with lacquer thinner, Scotchbrite the parts that really show. Then spray it on. I sometimes use their primer if the surface is rough or otherwise questionable, then sand again before the top coat.
It’s commonly available, sprays nicely, it’s tough and you can touch it up later and it blends well.
I’ve also used the equivalent Rustoleum products with the same good results, the Krylon paint just seems to be a little better. The POR 15 stuff was expensive and a pain with no real advantage.