Ok before the search Nazis kill me....yes I did do a search for this subject haha I've seen a flathead for sale here and there online and at farm auctions, but I do not know enough about them to know which block is the more sought after size and style. Any certain things to look for on the outside or serial numbers, model years? Any flathead gurus care to enlighten me? I really appreciate the help
No expert here, but if it was me I think I would like to start with an 8Cm. Nice Merc with the 4 inch crank to start with. Distributer that is easy to get to. Pan/bellhousing that I like better. Now all you need to do is find one.
The later 8BA blocks are usually better since they are the newest and Henry had learned a thing or 2 from the first in 32 by that point. They start in 49 and run up to 53 int he US, 54 in Canada. You can put the earlier heads on them by blocking one water port and they will/can be rebuilt using all of the 59 series parts for the more trad sought after look. But the best advise you are going to get has already been said - one that is without cracks!
The best one if you are going to restore a 1932 Ford is a 1932 Ford. Now is you tell us the rest of the story about what type of car you are building and what you intend to do with it you will get a better answer. Charlie Stephens
If I was to ever build a car around the engine it would be a '33-'34 Ford Salt flats style car(it'd be a long time from now, but it's fun to collect parts)......But I just figured if I came across "the" engine it'd be good to know more about flatheads. So how do I tell the difference between say a: 8ba, 59a and a 8cm Are those numbers stamped in the block?
I'm interested as well.. Flatheads are uncharted territory for me but I'd like for that to change at some point in the future. iPhone - TJJ App
There are three flatheads I like: Hudson 232/262/308 Ford 59A Plymouth 216 All for assorted reasons, but nonetheless, I like them.
A 49-53 has the advantage of tanged rod bearings which are cheaper and easier to assemble than the 48 and earlier types with the full floating bearings. I don't really care for the look of the front outlet heads and oil fill tube on the late motor but that can be remedied. Merc late models are desirable for the 4" stroked crank. Some prefer the '48 59L block which allegedly had thicker clyinder walls for big bores (not recommended). All in all, these engines are 60 years old so your best bet is a block with the fewest cracks. You may buy a few before you find a decent one. Good luck.
59 series will have a 59 cast in the top of the bellhousing. 8ba and 8cm will not have the big cast bell housing. it will have a bolt on bell housing 8cm block is not really any different than an 8ba but if it's a merc motor it may have a 4" crank in it. Best block might be a 39-42 mercury with factory 3-3/16 bore (same as 59ab and 8ba, 8cm) but I have always heard they were less prone to crack but that's just speculation. early merc and truck blocks will have keystone shaped water jackets top and bottom in the middle of the block and the middle one is a round hole i think. best thing to do is find a KNOWN good block and go from there. All the other parts are tipically bought new except for crank and rods (if 4-1/8 stoke or less), oil pan, front timing cover, and some nuts and bolts. My two cents of course.
59A has center outlet heads and a distributor mounted directly to the front center of the timing cover. 8BA/8CM have front outlet heads and a conventional looking (but junk) distributor sticking up at an angle on the passenger side out of the timing cover. Since flatheads have been mixed and matched for so many years now, I wouldn't put much faith in a pair of 8CM or EAC heads on an engine; I'd remove the oil pan and positively determine that it had a Mercury crankshaft before paying for one based on external clues.
Apart from all the above opinions, any flathead that has 24 stud heads (count ém) will suit you. They were made from 39 to 53. The earlier 21 stud engines have less options for speed gear, make a little less power, and the very early ones had babbit bearings.
Just start collecting 24 stud versions, when you find ones that's not cracked it'll be the one you want. It's a long journey to get there but stay after it and you'll wind up with a Flathead. If you do find a runner leave it alone and drive it until it gives out. Then tear it apart. A 59AB is the mythical great one for looks and A Merc crank addition will give it the brag factor. 2x2's and a potvin cam will be a great addition. Good luck in your quest, Tim
Thanks to the OP for asking the question. This is useful info. I always wanted to know the basics about flatheads, if nothing else so that I can have an idea of what I'm looking at when I come across one. Thanks for educating me. Is there a book "Flatheads for Dummies"?
JEEZ, haven't you read all the comments berating the flathead in relation to dependability, cost, low horsepower and all the other less than kind remarks form the sbc crowd. YOU must be a unique independent character who would dare venture away from the mainstream thinking to inquire about a power source that was once embraced by the founders of traditional hot rodding. To me once you get conditioned to the sound of a flathead en grained as the tune of a "real" hot rod, nothing else comes close. Buy the books to get the real scoop, if you are serious about learning about flatheads.
Good thread so far. I too am a flathead dufus. Books are fine but hearing it on here is a better source sometimes for the do's and dont's. Next stupid question.....anyone make after market blocks? Hey!!!!!! easy with that flame thrower! Just askin'
Yes, and whether less than kind or not, most of those comments mentioned seem to be true, but I still think a flathead is damned cool, it's definitely traditional, and I love the sound too. BTW, I happen to love SBCs. I guess I must be one of "them"...the [gasp] SBC crowd!?! What is this us and them crap? Can't I just enjoy an old motor, whatever it is?
I have run several in past and is all i run in my cars i have had.I like the 8BA Flathead and have had the best luck out of them.
Oddly enough your best source for after market, new blocks, is the French Army. They used the engine in trucks well into the 60s at least and recently a large number of new engines were imported into this country. Do a search and find a thread with more info.
thanks for all the great info guys! Now at least I will know to look at water outlets andcount studs....I found a short block for $50 and a long block for $300 near me, so now I get to go inspect them a little closer with my new flatty knowledge!
Even though some people think sbc are a better power plant, you cant beat the history and pazaz that a flathead has with all those head nuts in a row! especially when you bolt on vintage aluminum speed gear. You can get lucky like I did and score an 8BA block with a 4" crank and have more power also.
Most obvious places are the pan rail and cracks leading to a valve pocket or piston bore. Needs to be pressure tested.
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