What's the best primer-surfacer these days?

Definetely put on an Epoxy primer down first, let it sit a day or two. sand areas to be body filled with 80 grit and apply filler. Sand your body filler with 80 then 120 and final sand with 150 grit <<< this is the part most people skip and the reason they get sand scratch swelling in the topcoat. they generally try to fill all the 80 or 100 grit scratches with primer surfacer. not good. Apply primer surfacer over the 150 grit scratch. And if it needs more than 2-3 coats of primer, block sand and reprime instead of over applying.

 

I forgot all about feather-fill that stuff was pretty good. but i called 4 supply houses around me and noone NONE carried it or chould order it!! along those same lins what about slick sand that stuff was good kinda like feather fill but smother flowed more.

 

PPG stuff is overpriced and meant for the refinisher, usually not the restorer. HOK is $200 for 2 gals as well. Not overpriced at all.

 

Yeah...it's a common mis-conception that HOK, being geared towards the custom painter, is more expensive. Quite the opposite. Much less than PPG/DuPont/Alsa.......

 

is that RTS or just primer and more for hardner? i have a matrix bank(codes as ppg) and mix in it or sem( same codes as hok) i use flake and pearles for custom stuff from a company thats a trade secert

 

Putting DP down first and letting it kick for a day and then using a poly prime over it I have to say you are asking for eventual falure! PPG says clearly that if you go this route you have to let the DP cure for weeks first. If you top coat it with a filler any sooner the poly primer will never cure!!! The first layer of poly doesn't get a chance to cure because of a reaction with the epoxy, same holds true with the poly prime over an etch. I have seen these jobs fail miserably too many times. It is always sad when I see a shop have to strip a car back down because they didn't know any better.

 

Not to come off like an *** here..... but I have a shop that tried to use Matrix tints on their PPG bank and had nothing but color match issues. I know that Matrix says that they are the same, but then Keystone says the replacement fender for my wifes Honda is the same as the OEM too!!!

I guess in a custom shop where you are painting over alls and custom work it doesn't really matter, but in a collision shop and you are trying to match factory paint it just doesn't work. At least not in my experiance anyway.

 

maybe i dont really do touch ups. if it is something i paint then yea. because i have major recors like formula time/temp humity when i srpay it. i am **** about records with stuff i did even if its just for billing. 65/hr adds up fast and people want to know what i did for there $$$$ . also i never use ppg with matrix just there formula with my toners. but i do like it over dbc covers better from what i remember its been 5-6 years since i got my ppg platuim cert. havnt used them since 03' ish.

 

RTS. HOK Epoxy is 1:1 Part A and Part B. A gallon of each costs $200 ($90ish for gal of A and $110ish for B. It'll make more if you reduce. I usually spray it unreduced for the build and blocking purposes. If I'm close to topcoat and need to touch up an area that got thin I'll reduce it some.

 

I have used NCP for years with zero problems. It is the best overall primer especially for a beginner as you use one product and use different hardener and reducers for seal or prime.

DPLF replaced DP years ago and is not the same quality. Adhesion is nowhere near NCP. Also Featherfill may lift on top of DP.

Most problems are simply rushing a product and mixing stuff with other brands. I can't tell you how many shops wonder why they have problems and then you see what they are mixing. Use one brand throughout if possible and use their hardeners and thinners. Do not mix!!

Spies has or had a surfacer that needed a special gun and could close door gaps if layed up in a couple coats. In Europe they use heavier spray surfacers to speed up repair time.

Good luck.

 

i use that primer on my gas pumps its like body filler you can spray i love it ...

 

is that the k36? illl have to try it.

 

No its House of Kolor. The #'s are KP2CFA and KP2CFB. K36 is PPG and a decent primer, but way overpriced when compared to HOK's product.

 

Sherwin Williams SpectraPrime P30 is really good stuff. It dries really shiny so you hardly need a guide coat to block it. Fills really well too. Think it's fairly cheap too.

 

bought some today and just like 5 min ago sprayed it on a roof im flakin so we will see

 

Anyone tried the eastwood primer paint system,summit seems to carry the same one.Was wondering if it was any good ?

 

Am I reading these posts correctly, when using Squeegs Primer you can fill 36Grit scratches without any scratch marks coming back to haunt you in the topcoat??