I need something functional and cheap to protect the wires going throught the doorjamb into my doors when I open/close them. Since I have some of that cloth wire cover stuff, I thought I'd feed the wire through that and put a hose clamp on either end to keep it from pulling through. A little ghetto, but functional. Anybody have a better idear? Thanks in advance!
Somewhere here there's a solution using a tightly wound spring as a conduit. Looked like it was fixed at one end and slid thru a drilled plate at the other end. The wire obviously ran inside the spring. It may have been the Roger Miret (sp?) chev build thread. Maybe try a search thru that.
WOW that's nice. if only I knew where my counter sync drill bit went. I bet I could use carriage bolts and some metal and door springs from home depot. Sounds like more work than I want to do right now ,but if it came out looking half as good as that, it'd be worth it! Thanks for the help
I've always just used a length of rubber fuel hose. The clear, medical "IV", tubing can also be employed...especially when you're not.
Hit the salvage yard and pull some small ones off an existing car. Rubber, made to go inside the door and inside the cowl, usually just screw on, take two from the passenger side door of the same kind of car - turned 180' should be the same thing, but will have less use. Can't imagine it costing much... $5 or $10 tops.
Thanks zuzu and RNY I didn't even think of swiping a latemodel part. I never would have thought of that. It's a good idea. I can't believe I forgot about fuel line.
Yeah, you probably need the braided type if you have a '48 or older car where the doors fit flush, I didn't think of that. Actually, now that I think of it you can get those in the salvage yard too. '96 and older GM vans with power locks on the side/rear doors have them. So pretty much any conversion van.
Black plastic tubing and a couple of black rubber grommets. Just make sure the tubing will slide through one grommet (K-Y jelly is a great lube).
My new GMC came with the spring loaded buttons from the factory. Smaller than the billit after market ones. Pretty nice and a junk yard find. Not mine. But somebodys.
What you use depends on the gap between the door and the pillar. Some cars/trucks have a large enouth gap to use the collapsable rubber wire holders found on newer cars. Some, like my 47 chevy don't. In the latter case you have to have the wire holder set up so it will slip either back into the door or the pillar. You can take some elec conduit, put it in a bender to get a curve, weld a small plate on one end, drill out the hole into the conduit, some holes for screws and screw the plate to the pillar. First drill a hole larger than the conduit into the front of the door frame, put a grommet in it and slip the conduit into the hole. As you open the door, it swings out away from the pillar so you need a curve in the conduit. I used some stainless steel tubing instead of conduit and have had them in my aerosedan for over 15 years without a problem.
i tried the braided door looms, but they wouldn't work in a 58 chevy truk so i made these out of home depot aluminum stock closed door open door i used a 1/8'' roll pin for the pivot layout pic
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