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Technical What's the consensus on how to handle window fuzzies?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by gimpyshotrods, Jul 13, 2023.

  1. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,504

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    At the top of the body and interior trim on the quarter windows of my Falcon there are fuzzy strips which are stapled on, through them, and the steel itself.

    They are of course shot, and need to be replaced.

    What is the best way of refastening the new ones?

    I suppose I could carefully bend out every single staple, but that seems like a whole mess of work.
     
  2. Is there room for small screws?
     
  3. 51504bat
    Joined: May 22, 2010
    Posts: 5,604

    51504bat
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The replacement window channels for my '39 pickup came with tiny screws that my fat fingers couldn't navigate. Small pop rivets were suggested but not really sure how I'm going to proceed. I guess first thing is to replace the broken driver's side window. I've had the replacement for 2 years. Good thing I live in SoCal so a window isn't an absolute requirement.:cool:
     
  4. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,867

    squirrel
    Member

    Make new staples from baling (rebar tie) wire.

    Or use the little tiny flat head sheet metal screws.

    If you take it to a gl*** shop, they'll glue it in with urethane, the wonder adhesive. Ugh.
     
  5. Those tiny screws ****. Need a magnetic screwdriver.
    Or a small dab of some kind of adhesive.
     
  6. nickleone
    Joined: Jun 14, 2007
    Posts: 478

    nickleone
    Member

  7. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 15,881

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    2 part epoxy. But please, please, mask off the painted door! Just stating, for a friend.
     
    Just Gary likes this.
  8. Jim Bouchard
    Joined: Mar 2, 2011
    Posts: 1,297

    Jim Bouchard
    Member

    Bob Drake use to sell the staples in a little bag.
    I would just bend them over with pliers and finish with a couple of taps from a small hammer. I’ve used the pop rivets and the little screws too. Never used glue or thought that would be a good solution.

    If you use or make staples, pop rivets or screws make sure you get them bedded down in the fuzzies really deep, well and tight. Any protuberance will be a potential break in the gl***.
     
    '28phonebooth and gimpyshotrods like this.
  9. flatheadgary
    Joined: Jul 17, 2007
    Posts: 1,045

    flatheadgary
    Member
    from boron,ca

  10. I used some tiny countersunk pop rivets, and they would bury themselves right down in the fuzzy stuff when pulled up tight.
     
    bobss396 likes this.
  11. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,867

    squirrel
    Member

    I've used the soft side of Velcro inside a metal channel, but never as the fuzzy strip. Interesting idea.
     
  12. blue 49
    Joined: Dec 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,123

    blue 49
    Member
    from Iowa

    For the inner and outer seal at the top of my door gl*** opening, I bought a roll of 1/2" self adhesive Velcro (just the fuzzy part). It looks right and has stayed stuck for several years now.

    Gary
     
  13. evintho
    Joined: May 28, 2007
    Posts: 2,566

    evintho
    Member

    The staples are an extreme PITA! I used #6 x 1/4" sheet metal screws when I replaced all the window channels in my '54.
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DS4ZVH1?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

    Of course, I scuffed 'em up and painted 'em black first. Drilled the holes with a #40 drill bit. Tighten them up really good and they sink below the fuzzies and don't protrude at all. Another trick I used on the back of vent window channel is I s****ped all the old fuzzies out, cut long strips of hook & loop tape and carefully installed that. All windows roll up and seal fine!
    https://www.amazon.com/GOHOOK-Inch-...locphy=1014257&hvtargid=pla-950068727249&th=1
     
  14. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,504

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I never knew what the proper name was for them, until now.

    It appears that these are called a "seal staple".

    Amazing how not having a reasonably obscure search term will wreck your search results!

    [​IMG]

    At $4.95 for 25, I think I will just go with those. The metal and the seals are already punched for them.
     
  15. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 17,036

    jimmy six
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I replaced mine. Used every staple I could. Matched the holes in the whiskers and used a needle nose pliers to roll the ends in. Didn’t take that long. You could pay a shop $100/hr..!
     
  16. SS327
    Joined: Sep 11, 2017
    Posts: 3,861

    SS327

    Make new ones from paper clips. Bend them with needle nose pliers.
     
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  17. bobss396
    Joined: Aug 27, 2008
    Posts: 18,726

    bobss396
    Member

    This is exactly what I did with mine. So far , so good.
     
    Algoma56 likes this.
  18. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 11,259

    BJR
    Member

    At work we use stainless steel wire through the original staple holes. Run a small drill through the fuzzy and the original hole, pull the wire tight and twist on the back side. Holds very tight, and the wire gets embedded in the fuzzy so it doesn't show.
     
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  19. Restoration Specialties sells the staples in a bulk bag. $6.60 per 100. P/N 1999. When I did my 53, I modified a pair of pliers by welding a short piece of flatbar upright on one side to fit into the channel, and a receiver from an old stapler on the other side. Worked well.
     
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  20. David Gersic
    Joined: Feb 15, 2015
    Posts: 2,812

    David Gersic
    Member
    from DeKalb, IL

    Is there a corresponding “seal stapler” to install these?
     
  21. I've always used pop rivets. If you have a decent rivet gun that you can adjust the tension, the pop rivet head will sink into the fuzzy hiding the head
     
  22. Gotgas
    Joined: Jul 22, 2004
    Posts: 7,250

    Gotgas
    Member
    from DFW USA

    That's what I did for my Mopar. I couldn't find any felts available (and honestly, every "resto" part I did find for this car fit terribly) so I got creative. I carefully stripped the original whisker strips by removing what was left of the old felt material, then used adhesive-backed velcro trimmed to size on them. Since I had those little windows in the strips, I added some gorilla tape from the backside to really get them to stick. Worked like a champ and it was cheap, too.

    20190128_215822.jpg 20190129_180626.jpg 20190129_180613.jpg
     
  23. Lloyd's paint & glass
    Joined: Nov 16, 2019
    Posts: 10,863

    Lloyd's paint & glass
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I'm the hack here lol, I always use rivets and make sure the pin isn't protruding. Windshield urethane would work if you had a way to hold them in place for 12 hours for drying. But yeah, I use rivets in place of the staples.
     
    bobss396 likes this.
  24. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 37,324

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    Yeah I used tiny screws on the 56, can’t see them. I don’t know why some people skip this step. The car didn’t have any when I got it...

    CA6B47FF-E190-485D-AB85-8224646AFEF7.jpeg 6F105046-29A5-4F9E-A7C3-DFB179FA5E2E.jpeg 54CE8432-D30C-47A0-8DB3-CB78FCD53EEF.jpeg FE802CF8-0CAF-4933-AEBE-90D972028C6A.jpeg
     
  25. BamaMav
    Joined: Jun 19, 2011
    Posts: 6,969

    BamaMav
    Member Emeritus
    from Berry, AL

    I’m glad this got brought up. I’ve got all new gl*** for my car and was trying to figure out how to replace those before the new gl*** goes in. Now it’s just a matter of finding the correct sizes.
     
  26. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 9,811

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    When I bought new fuzzies for the edge of the windows on my '63 Falcon the supplier suggested to install them with #4 flathead Phillips stainless sheet metal screws. I used them, and they pull down into the fuzzies where the gl*** wont hit the heads.
    Used the same for the fuzzies I put on all my garnish molding for my '39 Chev coupe, and worked even better since those were off the car and easier to install.
     
  27. bobss396
    Joined: Aug 27, 2008
    Posts: 18,726

    bobss396
    Member

    If I have access, I'll countersink the holes a little before I install the rivets.
     
    Lloyd's paint & glass likes this.

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