What's the secret to double flaring brake lines?

I don't see a smily so maybe you are serious??? WTF....why would you be a hot rodder if you have to drive to the local shop just to get a line flared. Why not just send the whole damn car over and let them build it for you? Spend a little time and learn how to do it, that's what this hobby is about.

 

I've found that if the post of the ****on fits tight in the ID of the tube, you'll get a good flare. Seems that different brands of tube have different IDs.

I also place the hinged bottom die in the vise and clamp it tight. More likely to prevent slippage of the tube.

 

My secret is to con F-head into doing them for me. He's a real artist when it comes to running fuel and brake lines a**** other things.

 

I went with the Mastercool hydraulic tool, it works perfectly. So far I did two complete brake & fuel systems and many, many extra little jobs for freinds and fellow rodders. Pricey.....yep, but in my opinion it already paid for itself. If I ran a shop for a living building cars I would definitely have one of these also. My shop here at the dealership has had one since they first came out.

 

I have one I bought form Mac Tools about 25 years ago. Never had a problem with it. I usually crank down real tight when doing the last flare do create a smooth true surface on the inside. Only time I have to cut it off and re-do it is when I forget and leave the damned flare nut off!!!*&$^#%

 

Do not use grease or oil on the flare. The grease or oil will ruin the rubber in the brake system. Use brake fluid instead.
Mike

 

It's been mentioned in some of these responses, but it is absolutely essential that the end of the tubing is SQUARE, and BURR-FREE. No need to $pend lot$ of dollar$ on the hydraulic stuff if you have a little time and patience. I've been using the same Cal-Van flaring kit that I bought new 25 years ago, and have used it on at least 300-400 flares. They still sell these, not sure of the quality nowdays, but you can buy them for $20 dollars or so. Mine was made in the USA back then, but maybe nowdays they are junk.

 

If the stud on your ****on is broke or bent drill it out and replace it with a roll pin, it works better and the line wont pull to one side just make sure it is the correct hight.

 

Clean line with spray brake cleaner.....whatever you use

 

I think I'll buy one...

Does anybody know who has the best deal on one?

 

Like I said in my post, I got a pretty good deal on Egay.

 

I'll probably catch some hell but.....
I invested in a FEDHILL flare tool and some (conifer) copper alloy line..... there is a video that shows how easy their stuff is to use. I took a roll of 3/16th brake line under my truck and cut and hand bent it in about 10 minutes.... it took less time than that to flare it all.

It ain't cheap but it is unbelieveable easy! Split it with a few friends... if my shop was on fire and i could save one tool.... this would be it!

http://fedhillusa.com/

 

from personally having bent and flared the brake lines in my entire truck 2 times with leaky flares and no luck both times. this using both a harbour freight kit and a borrowed $100 kit. i just gave up and bought pre-flared lines the 3rd time around and looped them where they were too long. not one leak! also found out later my local hydraulic place flares your lines for penies. i'll never try flaring again just one of those things i have come to accept i can't do.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mast...011QQitemZ320193296839QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

$279.95 and $14.95 freight is the BEST price I have seen ... There are 2 or 3 of the #71475 Mastercool kits for sale on eBay all the time ... and vary 5 to 10 dollars ... and freight varies also.

Here's one for less ... but only 4 hours to go ... and it's only said to be new ...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-...013QQitemZ230200688323QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

 

I've done my share of flaring over the years, and I have had good luck with the cheap tools as long as you can keep the tube in the flaring block, but I think the secret is to never use a tubing cutter, and instead use a hacksaw. Make a square cut, and then use a co**** wire wheel on a bench grinder to completely de-bur the tube both inside and out. I will do an amazing job of de-burring the tube. I then use some 30 weight motor oil to lube the mandel for the first step, and to lube the pointed part of the tool for the second step. I use the wire wheel to de-burr the tube after the flare is done. I've never had one leak using these steps.

 

Gigantor paid $40 for one that apparently doesn't work. I paid $16 for one that did , go figure.

I'm 60yrs old, I don't plan on going into the flaring business, I doubt I'll be doing many more projects to flare and if I do I'm confident my $16 tool will do another. If not, I'll spend another $16...

With the money I saved I'll buy something I can really use or something I can appreciate when I look at it.

 

So THAT's my problem. I bought ready-made lines from NAPA. I have a Snap-On kit and the lines were slipping no matter how hard I tightened the clamp. Thanks Leon, I thought it was just me.

 

I bought a SnapOn double flaring tool about 20 years ago and have never had a problem.Go ahead and spend the money for a good one and you will never be sorry.With the price of gas you will spend more money running around every time you need a flare.

 

i do this all the time and no problem, probably the fact that my flare tool kit is 30years old and better quality, most of the above post are your clue on how to. be patient and conquer this and you will be forever happy that you put in the effort,

 

Ive used the same Snap-on double flaring set for 47 years with no problem. It was $30 then but I suspect it may have gone up a bit. A little Wd 40 helps too

 

I sure am glad I'm not the only fella who screws up double flares...

I am on my 3rd cheap kit, and this one has been the worst, from Kragen. Just like the one in the red plastic case. The clamp won't hold the line (even in the vise) and one of the (apparently pot metal) wing nuts broke in half...the Mastercool kits look to be the ticket, especially when bending bigger lines like ****** coolers, etc.

Lot of good tips on this thread...

BRT

 

I love my flare tool from fedhill!!!!

 

That looks good...

A nice sturdy Tool with no internal Hydraulic Seals to go bad.

I'll give 'em a call to make sure I can use that on regular steel Brake line.

 

I bought mine for $280 with free freight from www.thetoolwarehouse.net. After cussing and fighting with regular manual flaring tools, I got the mastercool, and havnt screwed up one flare. Its worth the investment to never ruin a line again, IMO

 

NAPA sells all the line fittings seperately you can make up any line you need.I own good proffessional tools and some of this import brake line will push right through the tool before it will flare .that goes for the premade lines as well.I'm not saying ONLY NAPA has good tubing but it is the only place here I have found it.Another thing is some of the stuff is marked in fractional sizes but are really metric just measure a few

 

gotta use their line...but the conifer won't corrode...and has a stronger burst strength than steel. Being able to use your hands to bend 3/16th line anywhere you want is amazing too. a roll of line was 75 bucks...but it lasts forever and one roll did my 56 truck with some left over.

 

Another option would be silicone grease, which I also use when ***embling the wheel cylinders, calipers, master cylinder, whether I am using Dot5 or regular fluid. I also thoroughly coat all boots, keeps em nice and protected indefinitely, as the stuff really doesn't miss with the fluid, really important with Dot5 as it has no lubrication properties. Just another tip from yer Unclee!

 

I just ordered this Tool...

Thanks for the Info, guys...

 

Yea, the hydraulic ones worry me a bit. I'm damn tired of buying hydraulic stuff only to use them a few times in a couple years and then have them leak everywhere. Not saying these do, but how many hudraulic rams for my hoist do I have to buy/rebuild in one lifetime. Maybe it's this desert heat, but damn. Name brand and cheapo seem to be the same. I just sure would hate to buy a $300 flairing tool, use it 6 times in 3 years, have the seals go out and then what???

 

I use a Weatherhead flairing tool for all my single and double flairs and have had excellent results for the last 30 years. I found that it was necessary to ensure the end of the tube was square to the sides and perfectly clean, that is, no burrs or imperfections.
Then I install the tube into the clamp using the built in notch to ensure that the tube protrudes the correct amount. ( I think this is the most important part of the job )
I put a dab of brake cylinder piston lube on the dye and place it in the pipe.
I screw the flaring tool down onto the special double flare ******. Back it off, remove the double flare ****on, and complete the flare.
I have had to redo the occasional flare, but I am happy with the results.
Bob