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What's the skinny on wheel spacers?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by geemann51, Jun 5, 2004.

  1. geemann51
    Joined: Dec 16, 2001
    Posts: 2,119

    geemann51
    Member

    When I bought my 51 Ford coupe, it had already received a GM 10 bolt rearend courtesy of an 82 Monte Carlo. Unfortantately, it's too narrow and the tires rub against the body on the inside.

    I am currently running steel 57 Chevy stock 14" rims (freebies from my buddy Bill) that have an extremely minimal backset. As a mtter of fact, I don't think any other rim could be shallower. The tires are P215/75R14's.

    For experimentation purposes, I have 5/8" worth of spacers on it now (1/2" + 1/8" Pep Boy specials), which have reduced the rubbing by 70-80%, as well as the thread contact on the studs/lugs. Scary, but as I mentioned, I'm still in the exprerimental stages.

    It appears that I have plenty of room on the outside and am considering going to a 1" spacer. See below.

    [​IMG]

    I'm pretty sure this should be enough to prevent the inside rubbing and I am prepared to go to a 5/8" X 4" stud to accomodate the spacer if need be. I figure it's gonna' cost me 75 clams or so from Speedway (15 or so per spacer and 3 for each stud plus the dreaded shipping/taxes) if I go the 1" spacer/4" stud combo.

    The other alternative that I am considering is a bolt on spacer/adapter similar to these on the bay...

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2481012122&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

    This route seems pretty easy, but is it safe? Is a 1" Spacer/4" stud approach better(safer)?

    Aside from replacing the entire rearend, are there any other affordable alternatives that I may be overlooking?

    I plan on carting the family around quite a bit and safety is paramount. Your input is appreciated, and as always, thanks in advance.....

    Gregg
     
  2. IBUILDM
    Joined: Mar 25, 2001
    Posts: 14

    IBUILDM
    Member

  3. a/fxcomet
    Joined: Mar 31, 2001
    Posts: 554

    a/fxcomet
    Member
    from Eugene, OR

    bolt on = good
    sandwich = bad
     
  4. SKR8PN
    Joined: Nov 8, 2002
    Posts: 439

    SKR8PN
    Member

    [ QUOTE ]
    bolt on = good
    sandwich = bad

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I love that......

    Another idea,is to take the centers out of your wheels and install them in a set of outer rims,that are a bit wider than what you have already.If you need to,reverse the outers on your inners to get the offset you want. It's not that hard to do. Go get you a couple of old junky rims and take them apart and experiment putting them back together.I used a small shop press to re-install the inners,into the outers.Square the centers,and set your needed back-spacing, into the "new" outers with a straight edge and a ruler. After you press them together,and have the proper offset,I true up the rims,on a drum/rotor lathe and weld them together. If you watch what you are doing with the torch and welder,you will be able to still run them tubeless.
     
  5. geemann51
    Joined: Dec 16, 2001
    Posts: 2,119

    geemann51
    Member

    Good stuff guys, thanks. I was under the impression that if you installed a 5/8" x 4" stud, then the spacer (sandwich) was the way to go. Pardon my ignorance, but why not the sandwich?

    As things go, it seems like the bolt on spacer/adapters is going to be my best bang for the buck, not to mention the time savings. But I stil got ask, why not a snadwich? [​IMG]
     
  6. SKR8PN
    Joined: Nov 8, 2002
    Posts: 439

    SKR8PN
    Member

    The sandwich method puts a LOT of extra strain on the wheel studs,and not enough support on the rear of the wheel...........
     
  7. geemann51
    Joined: Dec 16, 2001
    Posts: 2,119

    geemann51
    Member

    Ok, that's makes sense.
     
  8. mikes51
    Joined: Oct 4, 2001
    Posts: 2,195

    mikes51
    Member

    Do you have any of those used rim places near you? I remember buying some used steel rims and they couldn't have been more than $75 for a pair. That way, you might be able to buy some rims with the 1" more offset you need. Just go down with a couple of rulers (to measure the backspacing )and a pattern of your bolt circle.
     
  9. Ayers Garage
    Joined: Nov 28, 2002
    Posts: 1,387

    Ayers Garage
    Member

    I always use S-10 wheels. The ones on my 54 Chevy cost 10 bucks each at the junkyard. They have a lot of positive offset. It will fix your problem.
     
  10. geemann51
    Joined: Dec 16, 2001
    Posts: 2,119

    geemann51
    Member

    Are S-10's 14 or 15's?
     
  11. Ayers Garage
    Joined: Nov 28, 2002
    Posts: 1,387

    Ayers Garage
    Member

    2 wheel drive S-10 are usually 14 inch

    2 wheel drive S-10 Blazers are usually 15 inch.

    The Mustang II front end on my 54 Chevy is several inches too narrow for my tastes. I put the 15 inch S-10 blazer wheels on it and now it's offset to where it looks right.
     
  12. Kinky6
    Joined: May 11, 2003
    Posts: 1,765

    Kinky6
    Member

    O.K., I can understand that a 1" or larger sandwich spacer could be trouble. Would the same apply for a single 1/4" sandwich spacer? I've got plenty of thread depth, but there is some minor interference between the hub and the wheel center.

    This is on a 15"x6" Fenton Hustler, on the front of my '57 pickup. Later model disc brakes, 5 x 5" BP.
     
  13. Kinky6
    Joined: May 11, 2003
    Posts: 1,765

    Kinky6
    Member

    BTTT

    Anyone have trouble with running a single thin spacer?
     
  14. Model A Vette
    Joined: Mar 8, 2002
    Posts: 1,075

    Model A Vette
    Member

    A thin spacer would probably be OK. Do you still get the wheel to register on the center of the axle? That would releave some of the strain on the lug bolts.
     
  15. SKR8PN
    Joined: Nov 8, 2002
    Posts: 439

    SKR8PN
    Member

    *****,I don't think a single 1/4 in spacer will hurt you to much. One thing to remember,on your front hubs,when you move the rim OUTBOARD(like with a spacer,OR an offset wheel) you also add a LOT of stress and strain on the wheel bearings,the spindles AND the ball joints/king pins.
     

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