Technical Wheel bearing blues!

My avatar car started making noise in the right front. So I pull the wheel bearing out. The nut was real tight when I took it off, but after finding “ chips” of metal in the grease bearing, I just thought the chips of metal caused it.
Then I pulled the left front off and it was real tight also, actually had to put some force on it to get it started off. Bearing was fine.
These were put on by the former owner when it was converted to Factory Ford Disc brakes, with not many miles or time on them.
Sorry no pictures, but does the HAMB think the over tight bearing could have been the cause of the one bearing failure?






Bones

 

It may have been but in the last 15 years, I have had a bearing failure rate at 12%. Every time I buy a new bearing, I'm wondering if I get a good one.

 

Yep! Too tight, too loose, no grease,

 

Only use Timkin Bearings.

 

I tried to buy them at my local bearing house! They didn’t have any on hand! So I had to go to a automotive parts house and buy Chinese crap! I had to get it back on the road quick as it is our only means of transportation at the moment!
The failed bearing still had grease on it. I replaced it and greased the others and set them to what I think is the proper setting!




Bones

 

It depends on how tight it really was. Wheel bearings should be set up with about 0.001 - 0.005 in clearance. It is common on heavy truck to check adjustment with a dial indicator. Tapered bearings actually have a longer life with a bit of pre-load. However, it is very hard to measure a pre-load. You can however measure end play. I try to shoot for the least amount of end play the adjustment will allow.

 

Chinese bearings are are only good as a stop gap until you can fine good old NOS USA bearing.

 

Well, the method I have used for nearly sixty years is to “ torque the nut while turning the wheel to about 20 ft lbs . I don’t use a torque wrench here, just feel. Then I back the nut off to relieve it, a little. I have never know of a failure for me , using this method. My car has the little tin things so that you can get a cotter key in where you set the bearing! Back in the day some cars didn’t have this , just a castellated nut where you had to choose one sixth of a turn fir your setting! Seems like on those one slot was too tight and the other ,too loose! Lol






Bones

 

I agree! But I am the King of Procrastination! I usually only fix what is yelling at me! But I will start looking for some USA bearings! That’s for sure!






Bones

 

I just tighten them down hard, spin the wheel to get the grease to move around and excess out of the bearings then just back off until I can just start to feel any play and the wheel spins free.

Of course I'm old and was taught by an even older man when I was young. YMMV

.

 

Timkin is no longer the company it was when it was controlled by the Timkin family. After a bad experience on a trailer I always look on the bearing to make sure its made in the USA, Sweden or Germany.

 

The wheel bearing blues sounds like a sad old country song.
My baby left me broke down with the wheel bearing blues. lol

 

how many old cars do you have?

 

You might very well find USA Timken bearings on Rockauto. I found USA Timkens for the front of my O/T Ranger on the Rock. I wouldn’t be surprised if they are the same!

 

The last 'Timken' bearings I bought turned out to be re-boxed Japanese-made SKFs.... after being reassured that they were US-made versions.

Bones, is the conversion used the early four-piston fixed calipers? While arguably a better brake than the single-piston floating design that replaced them, they could be very sensitive to any rotor run-out. Proper wheel bearing play was critical to prevent pedal 'pulsing' as was bearing maintenance. These needed to be 'tighter' than what was acceptable on a drum or single piston set-up. Loose bearings could cause rotor damage from the pad flutter. That was the big reason that type disappeared after '67...

One of the upgrades Ford recommended in the Boss 302 chassis book was swapping in the early four piston calipers for the OEM single pistons. But they didn't want to sell them to the general public.

 

Japanese made bearings are excellent quality....many here mother fuck Ebay but if you have the bearing number there are many quality name new and nos bearings to be found....

 

Yup x yup

 

I have close to 75 things that move, cars trucks, tractors, dozers, etc. But most all,are down on the ranch and don’t run. My wife totaled our van last week and the insurance company is being real slow. I do have several vehiles that just need a battery or the like. But my old 65 is now the only thing that will currently start from the seat!






Bones

 

I am not sure of the year that was used to up date but I think it was in the seventies and it does have the single piston.
I know what you mean on the early stuff, my 66 model car that we can’t talk about has the four piston set up, if I remember correctly. I remember it was real touchy about the rotors.

I have been checking for the A-12 set of bearings, but like you, only have found foreign made stuff , so far! Rock auto shows a picture of the Tempkin bearing with the USA visiable, but it will probably show up Chink!






Bones

 

Put probably 15k on AutoZone bearings, sold the truck and he’s driven the crap out of it.
No problems.

 

I bought a Carson trailer in 1996. First trip was to Bonneville in August. The bearings were hot in Baker Ca. on all 4 wheels. I removed all 4 one at a time. They were made in Russia. I cleaned and regreased them with Sta-Lube disc brake grease I had brought along. Problem solved. They are still there. It was the grease.

 

What? Boiled Russian yack grease is no good? This is the first I’m hearing about this! It’s a Russian commie plot against America I tell ya! Dammed Putin!

 

Grease matters! I put my special grease back in my wheel bearings, so I know I’m good for at least a while!




Bones

 

Three factors there.
Properly packing the bearing. you don't just dab some grease on them.

Properly adusting the bearings, As my auto shop teacher said exactly 60 years ago Neither tight nor loose. Run the nut in, rock the wrench so you know that the bearing is all the way seated, line up the slot for the cotter key to the closest place that it "just stopped" without putting any load on it. That is what I have done for 60 years and I have never had trouble with a bearing that I personally packed and tightened that was good to begin with.

That and under no circumstances wash a bearing that you intend to reuse in solvent. That alone is why all too many guys loose wheel bearings after they serviced them. The solvent doesn't let the grease stick to the rollers.
I should add that you push the dirty grease that is in the bearing out with clean grease when you pack the bearing and wipe the dirty grease off. I've seldom used a bearing packer or even had access to one even when I was often doing several brake jobs a day.

 

I usually do the hand packing in the palm of my hand! Just showed the wife how I did it on this car! She sure didn’t like it ! To clean the bearing I would usually just roll it around in a rag ! Then when I packed it I would continue until I saw clean grease!,
When I was working I bought one of those cheap plastic bearing packers. It actually worked real good! After I was done packing a bearing I would just put the packer, full of grease in a zip lock bag and store it on the shelf!






Bones

 

Me to. Except I'd clean mine first before putting it in the bag.

The solvent thing could be a problem if you don't blow dry off the excess, I can see that happening alright. But this day and age it's mostly brake cleans out of a spray can, washes rinses and dries, flashes quick, no residue. My Varasol tub hasn't had any in years.
That said, pushing out the old grease with new, a guy does it with ball joints, tie rods, U joints so it makes sense when you say it that way.

I'm going to remember that the next time I do wheel bearings. At least for the first one. I don't like it, old habits are easily remembered.

 

A buddy of mine would sand down the castellated nut to get the adjustment he wanted.

 

Ball bearings a touch of free play , tapered rollers a touch of preload . Bones my friend , I need to move closer to you , I would enjoy wasting my day tinkering with you and your stuff . My 32 is still running the front wheel bearings that say “ Ford “ on them . I have cleaned checked repacked and retorqued them many times myself . I just wander how many miles are actually on them . Some thing for you all to think about on bearing life is wheel bearings on old Harleys , tapered rollers , greased every time a tire change takes place , this is not the issue , they have no seal to speak of , that one is normally used to seeing . What kinda day , would a locked bearing make for you on two wheels ?

 

I guess again, I musta been taught wrong. Solvent and a brush, get all the old grease out. Blow dry and let them sit and let the solvent evaporate. Never spin a dry bearing, then pack. Not 60 years, but 45 without an issue that way.
I’m guessing a failure would/could occur if solvent was left in the bearing.
Now another thing that might be a difference, I never did it for a living, I/e never had to have the vehicle out the door as soon as possible.
I guess if you need to get them in and out, probably just pack till clean grease comes out and put them on.

 

As mentioned, Rock Auto and even Amazon is a good source for Timken wheel bearings. My last order (inner, outer, all races) were USA and Japanese, both of which should be excellent.

I lost an axle due to a chain parts store Chinese bearing. Never again!