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Projects Wheel Stands for lifting and supporting a car

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Blue One, Dec 31, 2015.

  1. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,491

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    o_OIf you had bothered to look at the rest of the thread you would see that I did build something but different than the ones that I started the thread with. :D
    I put the RPU up on them, it was easier than I thought it would be. :cool:
    Larry. 20160116_123235.jpg
     
    T Hudson likes this.
  2. Cosmo49
    Joined: Jan 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,594

    Cosmo49
    Member

    Did you 'step-up' using jack stands and a floor jack?
     
  3. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,491

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    No actually I have a low profile aluminum 3 ton floor jack that lifts 19'' high.
    Put the front up first and then the rear using a 3" hardwood block on top of the floor jack for the rear.
    One move on each end and there she sits.
    Nice height to work on or under. :)
     
  4. Joe H
    Joined: Feb 10, 2008
    Posts: 1,705

    Joe H
    Member

    I understand the liability stuff, but why not stand up and take responsibility for your own work? Why must we blame someone else all the time?

    Building stands is no different then welding a frame, or welding trailer.

    Larry, do you have a materials list for the blue stands? I could use a set like that.

    Joe
     
  5. fine for a light car........ chassis garage2.JPG
     
  6. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,491

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    I do Joe, pretty straight forward. They are made of 3/16 " steel plate.
    8 pieces 16 1/2" x 13"
    8 pieces 14 1/2" x 13"
    4 pieces 8 1/4" x 10 3/4"
    The ends are the 14 1/2" pieces and they are cut down so the tops are 8" and the bottom to sit on the floor is 14 1/2".
    The sides are cut down to 10 1/4" on the top and the bottom is the 16 1/2".
    The holes are marked out (and the cut outs for the bottom edge forming the legs also) so that there is 1 3/4" of metal left around the edge and top, all around basically.
    The curved section is about 1" deep, curved to fit the tires.
    The tops were bent on a press to fit the curve.
    Weld them all together, fit corner to corner so that the weld is still there after smoothing and you are done.
    Hope that makes sense :)
    Larry
     
    Johnboy34 likes this.
  7. IndigoInkTaco
    Joined: Sep 24, 2016
    Posts: 55

    IndigoInkTaco
    Member
    from Jersey

    These look nice!

    I wouldn't mind doing something similar to this as the "ramp-up", then making a flat section for the truck to sit on so I can work on it underneath. Because I agree....Race Ramps stuff is a bit overpriced.

    How much support do you have on the inside of those ramps?
     
  8. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,491

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    The internal support is 3 pieces of plywood spaced out equally and glued and screwed in place bulkhead style.
     
  9. wicarnut
    Joined: Oct 29, 2009
    Posts: 9,173

    wicarnut
    Member

    I used to use the metal ramps (had 2 sets) you buy at Fleet farm, about 10" wide 14" high, about a 2' ramp. (Advertised as oil change ramps) Drove my Roadster or 32 up on, block front tires, use Floor Jack under rear end, put jack stands under rear axel, worked slick, was younger, could get up and down some years past, not so much now. Funny story, removed front tire block for some reason, forgot to put back and went to let car down and it took off rolling down ramp, wheels on floor jack, car in park, back tires up, pretty exciting for a minute. Had my 32 on tall stands for engine, tranny replacement and rear gear removal, Now I have a 4 post lift, the only way to go when old, arthritis everywhere, hip replaced,etc. worked for 30 years, in a 2 car garage, was insulated/heated/AC, small, but, it's what I had, Now I have a pretty sweet garage setup, 2 buildings, 2700 sq feet total and the Ambition like Elvis, has left the building.
     
    Last edited: Nov 23, 2016
  10. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 14,197

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    CAUTION: CONTAINS OFF TOPIC AUTOMOBILES SOME MAY FIND OFFENSIVE. USE OF CAR IS FOR ILLISTRATION PURPOSES ONLY.

    So, here is a little contraption I built about 10 or so years ago. I took some of those cheap Harbor Freight wheel dollies, hit a few garage sales for steel jack stands and I welded them together. I have several different sets of 2 inch bars drilled to different heights and receivers to hold sub-frames, rear ends, and I am currently rigging them up to transport my 34 to the paint booth without the suspension attached.
    Here they are bolted front and rear to a f body sub. I built the entire sub-frame on the stands...
    upload_2016-11-23_12-30-11.png
    then roll it under the car and lower the body on to it like GM did it. I have rebuilt all of my f bodies using these cheap ass wheel stands
    upload_2016-11-23_12-35-22.png
    and here are the dollies with the rear end u channels, using this set up I install the rear ends and springs without any assistance and it is very simple since I am using the weight of the car and gravity in my favor. .
    upload_2016-11-23_12-37-40.png

    This weekend I am dropping the front and rear suspension out from under my 34 and building still more adapters to bolt to the front and rear bumper bracket holes in my frame in order to transport the frame with the body bolted to it via roll back to the paint booth soon.

    Sorry about the OT model. My wife was manufactured in 69 as well, so I guess she is OT too. :rolleyes:
     
    wicarnut likes this.

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