I Mocked up the suspension yesterday on the 1937 Ford roadster/pickup build. So far I have it set up 6" off the ground. Once I get everything bolted up I will install the flathead and trans, which should drop it under load an additional 2" for a total of 4 inches off the ground. Now for the front end? I'm still up in the air on wheelbase and what front cross member would work for this build to keep it in proportions . My thought is to do a modified 1932 cross member brought back about 4 or 5 inches to compensate for the front spring behind Dropped I-beam axle, this will keep it at 112" wheelbase rather than cutting the rear rail 5" to keep at 112". Or I can modify the '36 crossmember I have already and bring it up 2" in the middle, cutting the bottom of the crossmember to allow clearance for the I-beam . Thoughts? Please chime in. The photos are just a mock up and shows the wheelbase at 116"
Absolutely! Now, I have been in this deal of making fat fendered Fords fenderless a couple of times, and the best advice I can give you is to not worry as much about the wheelbase being a certain number, as the truck looking good from the profile view. This is within reason of course. The thing everybody misses when they do this thing is they leave the front axle in it's stock location. The nose hangs forward way to far to make these cars look good in that configuration fenderless. Keep stuff where you have it for the moment, mock up and bolt down the cab, grill, hood, and grab the wheels and tires you intend to run. Once you have done that, push the whole mess outside where you can step back 50' or so and look at it. Hell, grab the rocking chair out of the shop, place it at 50 feet and pop a beer and REALLY look. Four inches forward is a good start, but you might end up going spring behind and adding a bit more into the mix, too. That at least would allow you to keep the stock cross member where it is at and not have to tunnel the firewall for engine pulley clearance, making an already tight cab even smaller. What you are looking to do, and what makes Dean's truck look so good is the front axle is centered under the grill shell. Again, too far back like stock, and you get a nose heavy, falling forward look. Now, once you have the front end where it belongs, you'll find that the wheelbase is starting to get a bit out of hand. Your not going to like the next part, but basically you now have to take out of the back of the truck what you just put in the front! And, to do that I almost guaranty that you'll end up cutting and shortening the frame behind the cab. To get it down where it's gonna look good, you probably end up making a fairly radical kicked up rear section. All of this has to be handled the same way, by the way, with it mocked up, the tires you intend to use for a reference, and eyes a good distance away.
Great advise. I'm cutting and channeling the cab right now and in the next couple of days will lay the flathead and trans in for reference. My measurements so far keep the back of the heads off the firewall by 2". After the body is channeled I will modify the front crossmember and I think move the axle forward a bit. Like you said once the front is set right, then move the rear frame forward to compensate. Not too hard to do. On Dean's 1935, it looks like the spring is mounted in front of the crossmember? What's are other opinions?
I'm sure that Dean's is. I have parked next to it at a couple of local events and checked it out pretty thoroughly. I might suggest looking at a couple of threads on here about a "Rolling Bones" type front suspension. They use a pair of stock wishbones that have been split, and a pair of '28-'34 style spring perches mounted through the 'bones JUST BEHIND THE FORGING to mount the spring. It would be an easy way for you to adjust the forward portion of your wheelbase to get where you want. I can't stress enough, though, DON'T SKIP THE ROLL IT OUT AND MOCK IT UP AND FIFTY FOOT THING!!! It sounds like a lot of work just to sit and look at your project, but it's going to show you where you are right and wrong with what you are doing. There is an old thread on here revived yesterday, started by Tfeverfred called "The Eye". Read through it, as it deals with proportions a bunch.
I'm defiantly going to pull it out and ogle at it for a while. I wonder if Dean's is set up very similar to a spring behind T- bucket.
You have helped me tremendously, and I really appreciate your help. This will be an easy fab done that way.
I didn't get a side shot of this one but it pretty well hits right on what Chip was saying in getting the wheels centered on the grill shell rather than too far behind or ahead of it.
Todd, do you have your grill done ? How about a radiator ? Be mindful that channeling means that you need to shorten both, grille shell and radiator. Channeling the cab more in the front than the rear to cover the frame in the front like its covered in the rear - makes the shortening of grill and radiator even more drastic . Now mix in moving the cross member forward and that just shortened the radiator another 4 " on top of the channel Id play with the grille and radiator while you are deciding the depth of the channel and especially if you are planning on a wedge channel.
I've been using the grill for mock up, Knowing it will need to be shorten. No it's not been cut up yet. I have a 1949 8 BA rad that I will be using.
I really appreciate all the great advise and suggestions. My dilemma began coming up with a way to keep the spring under the cross member. Now that I have a clearer picture I'm going with T bucket style suicide front end with a fab bracket welded to the top of the cross member extended out as a spring perch. This as suggested will give me more to work with and center the grill to the I-beam.
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