American your car is amazing .. it has to be a real blat to drive. I think from my experience that CarCarzy has a great point. If in doubt of what to do, I would call the guys at Competition Engineering (not INC) www.competitionengineering.com. When I drag raced these guys helped me understand the real issue.
from the one pic of the underneath....there are a lot of different arcs going on....a lot of stuff with mounting points. ladder bars would probably help a ton. they showed on tv yesterday , welding on some blocks between the floater brackets on each side to keep it located . not sure how well that would work , been a while since we had a car with floaters around the shop.....
i went under comp.eng. site to see how they are installed and they dont have anything on there site.my car doesnt have a full ladderbar set up right now but it will.what happens to the locating pin for the leafs?
On my set up ( Comp Enginering ) The sliders have a slot that the spring pin slides in the axle is held from turning and moving front to rear by the ladder bars and a Pannard bar holds it side to side. I have to preload the ladder bar on one side to make the car run strait on the track it jumps to the left on second gear power shift with out preload.
does anyone have a pic.of a set of rollers on there car?i was going to say rearend but im sure that would open up a whole new can of worms.
still looking for some pics.of a set of rollers on a car.another problem i might have is i made the spring perches and they are bigger than normal.they are about 1'' all the way around the top or the housing.is this going to be a problem?
Here is my slider set up befor I braced the rear housing and switched to panhard bar which was a major inprovement over the angled brace. I guess these are the shots you need?
sheeeeeet I love that damm car cold but that thing gives me warm fuzzzzzzies off the scale I love IT!!!!!
thats what i thought.the comp.eng. one wont work{DAMIT!!!}there is a jegster one.it looks like it is weld -on that might work.i new i shouldnt have such a big brace around the top of the axle.thanks for the pics.sometimes i just need to see things because its really hard to picture how stuff works.thanks for the pic.now i have to figure out what im going to do now.
thanks.but im trying to fix the twisting.i guess if i do nothing it will still go straight and be a BLAST to drive.
hey judd.it looks like you didnt have any spring perches?is that wht you put the panard bar in?now im confused again.
just found this one.i call it {oh shit im going towards the wall}this was when i was doing a burnout.sorry but i love looking at pics.of my car.
It has perches Crites spring relocator set up it's basicaly the stock setup set in for tire clearance. Here is a pic of the panhard bar. Ignore the shity temp brake line set up it's on the way to all hard lines
thanks judd.i thought i could put them on without cutting off my perches but from what i have seen i cant.so i guess im just going to have to leave the springs in and maybe put some straps on the front of the leafs to keep them from wrapping.
does anyone have any bent ladderbars that they dont need?i need 2 3ft pieces of 1''dom tubing to make the top bar.id needs to be atleast .156 wall for 3/4 rod end.
AAHHHH. Thompson drag strip. My old stomping ground. I used to go there about every wednesday night during the summer. I miss it. Cant help you with ladder bars tough. Maybe you should consider converting to an adjustable 4 link. It would hook up very well. Its the same setup the 80's G-body's use. More specifically grandnationals. I know you've had to see them take off at the line at thompson.
i thought about doing a 4 link but i like the look of a ladderbar and they hit really hard.i know i could get more adjustment out of the 4 link but what i have works and i dont have the money to change it.the springs are wrapping pretty good and thats why i want to do an upper bar.
well i just got the dom tubing today.now all i have to do is drill and tap it for the rod end.oh and cut notch weld ect.heres another Q.i have the rear pinion angle set at 5 deg.down and before i weld the bar in i think i should set it at 2deg.down.does this sound right?trans is at odeg.
I love a car on two wheels! Your car is freakin cool!!! On using Comp Engineering floaters...you would lose the spring pad the floater would bolt onto the leaf spring using the spring bolt like the pad...but there are some small flat bars in the kit that you weld to your axle housing, then you bolt the floating cage around it. The panhard bar is a nice addition but not needed. The welded flat bars and leaf springs help to keep the axle center from side to side movement. The axle is then free to float or rotate using the ladder bars to create the lift. If you add a panhard bar to the axle then ...once again you limit the ability for the axle to rotate freely. David Stacey on Gearz installed some floaters on a Hemi powered 60s Dodge pickup...I only mention this cause that episode shows detail on how to intall them...better than I can explain! I hope this helps!!!
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