History When were Triangulated 4 Kinks first used?

Earliest true triangulated 4-link I've found so far: 1961 Olds:

 

Hey, that looks familiar

FYI, not sure if you saw on the Basurati thread, you have to call Speedway on the phone but you can order those suspension parts from the Tribute T as a kit but it is secret menu stuff (not on the website). It does not include the weld-on brackets for the axle tubes, only the bolt on bracket for the banjo, all 4 rods and their ends/hardware. It all fits though.

 

My 64 Chevelle had a 4 link from the factory.

just my 3.5 cents

live learn & die a fool

 

Thanks Ned, there was some interesting information there but it didn't take long for it to turn into the usual ******* match. Exactly where is the friendly in HAMB friendly?

 

If I was building an early roadster I would use angled quarter elliptic springs as the bottom links and adjustable bars the same length up top angled like the springs. The angled springs with no shackles will provide side to side stability and the upper bars can add some stability depending on the type of bushings or rod ends you use. Pinion angle can be adjusted with the upper bars. Simple and effective.
I built my ‘27 T with that setup in the front. The springs were the lower links in a parallel four bar design and were angled about 20 degrees off of the ch***is centerline. No Panhard bar. It drove just fine. The rear was conventional 4-bar with quarter elliptics.

 

Yep, I stole your picture! I'll be running a Dana 44 and will make the center bracket.

Until '25 Chevy had angled 1/4 elliptics on both ends but they bolted to the axles with no upper links. One of my ideas was to run angled 1/4 elliptics with 4 springs. With one upper & one lower on each side much like the Miller race cars. The uppers would have an adjustable mount to set pinion angle. Now I'm leaning toward angled 1/4 elliptics as the bottom links and a triangulated set on top similar to the above picture. That opens some space in the frame for the fuel tank.

 

I found these pictures of the front and rear end with quarter elliptics. I kinda triangulated the springs and upper bars in the front. It worked great. I made some changes to stand the front shocks up a little more, that tube was the start of the radiator support/ shock/headlight stand.
The rear had co**** adjustment at the housing and also fine adjustment by the jacking bolt at the frame mount. It was a 'gl*** '27 T, nice 'n low and it handled like a go-kart. I'm thinking of using quarter elliptics in the rear of my current '33 pickup project.

 

Really nice, Thanks.

 

I built my own spring setup.

Quarter elliptical springs (started out as Suzuki samurai springs) with my triangulated four link.

 

I'd have to think that through. Quarter-elliptics are solid-mounted at one end, and therefore don't act as links in the strict sense. Triangulated 4-link geometry won't apply; I'm trying to think what would apply.

 

Here's the only overhead I have

.

 

The truth is, I wouldn't try to use that front suspension on anything of a High Performance nature that would need big front brakes and grippy tires. That car was built on virtually a Zero Budget, using bits and pieces that were scrounged, begged and borrowed. It was light weight and low powered (stock 283 Chevy, w/3-2s and a PG). The front brakes were Volvo rotors with VW type II calipers with Firestone 5.60-15 bias ply tires. Not a huge amount of clamping or contact patch - it was a 2000 lb car. (It still had more braking power than the light weight and tiny contact patches could cope with)
The OP was interested in a rear suspension for his project that is a '20s Chevy roadster with four or six cylinder power. In that case I wouldn't be afraid to try using a straight or slightly arched quarter elliptic spring in leu of a lower bar, either straight or angled, in conjunction with triangulated upper bars. As with most hot rods, limited travel and carefully selected compliance in the bushings are the saving grace.
Living in the US, I've seen some very strange suspension set-ups, especially when the rat rods came into vogue, but many seem to get the job done for the most part, in spite of dubious engineering. I know folks in other parts of the world are limited as to what is certifiable.

 

Yes my Chevy II banger will make less than 200 HP. With ideas from here and some from my head I am confident I can pull this off. Thanks to all who have added to the conversation and to those yet to make a show. Worst case there is an unmolested 283 in the shop that will bolt right in.

 

I thought Junior Johnson invented the triangulated four link rear suspension?
If I am wrong or have confused the facts please correct me. Thank you.
This has been a very good discussion.

 

I've heard that about truck arms, not the triangulated 4-link — at least their use in NASCAR. The arms were already in use on stock Chevy trucks when Johnson fitted them to a car.

 

@lostone,
Do you have the dimensions of the Suzuki Samurai springs? Eye to eye and leaf width.
Looks like a neat way to go.
TIA

 

Surprisingly easy to find:
https://www.generalspringkc.com/1986-1995-suzuki-samurai-front-leaf-spring-4-leaves/
https://www.generalspringkc.com/1986-1995-suzuki-samurai-rear-leaf-spring-4-3-1-leaves/

 

Dawie,

I found that too after I posted. I don't think that @lostone springs are that long. Doesn't matter, though, I need 1 3/4" wide.

 

So far this looks like the closest to where I'm headed. Without the coils & swap the lower links for quarter elliptic leaf springs. It looks pretty simple to me and running the top links to the rear will leave space for for the gas tank between the frame rails.

 

@GearheadsQCE I will try to measure a set for you. Those Measurements above sound longer than mine. I'll try to find where I put my extra set tonight.

@Six Ball I'd leave the 4 links and do like I did on mine, run the quarter elliptical springs inside the lower link and just mount the springs to the rear housing by using shackles.

I like this best because the spring does nothing but support the weight of the car.
Also this way my rear springs are totally adjustable for height and there is no other side or lateral pressure against the springs.

It should give a very nice ride and one that I can totally adjust and I can even change springs to change spring rates and never have to worry about suspension movement.

Just my preference.

 

@GearheadsQCE , @Six Ball here is the link to my build thread for my homemade quarter elliptical springs, this will show the complete build of the springs and their set up. Hope it helps!

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/built-my-own-quarter-elliptical-springs.1115374/



@GearheadsQCE I measured the extra samuari springs I have and I get 37" length center to center spring eye bushings on one set and 39" on the other set. One set being front and the othe set being rear. Of course mine are shorter as I've cut them down to make the quarter elliptical set out of them.

 

Thanks for the link. I'll gave to read it all again but that is good information. It makes a lot of sense. The adjustability is plus.